H 









■ 

H I 

1 H I - 1 




H 



Ism 

■ I 

■HI 

HH I RWjjj 

*l ■ 

E 

^S&;.<f '■•f r > -,' |^HH 




SKffi 




^M> A>UVA_A^^VU^tl 



CvlaA- 




oil by Jhady 6 

Jj tedding c/oooni 

ADAPTED FROM THE FRENCH OF THE 

BARONNE STAFFE 

WITH INTRODUCTION AND ADDITIONS 
BY 

HARRIET HUBBARD AYER 




NEW 

CASSELL PUBLISHING COMPANY 

104 & 106 Fourth Avenue 



, Si? 



Copyright, 1892, by 
CASSELL PUBLISHING COMPANY. 

All rights reserved. 



LC Control Number 




tmp96 028656 



THE MERSHON COMPANY PRESS, 
RAHWAY, N. J. 



PREFACE. 

The Baroness Staffe has written 
this book for French women. I have 
translated it, and adapted and edited it 
for the women of America. If there 
were virtue in plainness, the world 
ought to be very much better than it 
is ; but the classic proverb to the effect 
that " Comeliness recommends Virtue " 
is true. Mortals are led by appearances, 
and the more beautiful good women 
are, the better equipped they will be 
to guide aright a world whose future 
depends upon the worth of its mothers 
and daughters. 

The devout and ardent Chatelaines 



IV PREFACE. 

of the Middle Ages felt this when they 
interleaved their Books of Hours with 
prayers and toilet recipes alternately, 
using one as religiously as the other. 

In every age personal refinement has 
marked the highest stage of luxury and 
intelligence, and the advancement of 
women is one of the most striking facts 
of the renaissance of the last decades 
of the nineteenth century. One of the 
triumphs of our sex is that by legiti- 
mate means we have learned to care 
for ourselves physically, so that the 
spendidly-developed woman of to-day 
has driven the languishing invalid of 
our mothers' time out of existence and 
made her as ridiculous as she deserves 
to be. We have learned *how not to 
grow old, and we have learned that 
with fastidious care there is no excuse 
for an ugly woman, and that we may 



PREFACE. V 

preserve the beauty of youth, or a 
delightful resemblance to it, far past 
the terrible middle ag;e which we for- 
merly so dreaded. 

I hope American women may find in 
this little book some hints and sugges- 
tions which will help them to maintain 
the charm and grace and beauty which 
have made them famous in the Old 
World as well as in the New. 



CONTENTS. 



PART FIRST. 



PAGE 

Woman's Sanctuary, i 

The Dressing Room : 

Its Furnishing, . . . . . n 

Indispensable Accessories, .... 14 

A More Simple Dressing Room, . . . 17 

The Bath Room : 

Its Arrangement and Appointments, . . 21 

Utensils and Accessories, .... 23 

Daily Baths, 28 

Cold, Hot, and Sponge Baths, ... 34 

Soothing and Refreshing Baths, ... 38 

Massage and Friction, ..... 44 

Sea Baths— River Baths, ..... 48 

Hydropathy and Hydropathic Appliances, . 52 

Cleansing of Sponges, 60 



PART SECOND. 



General Care of the Body 
Cleanliness of the Body, 



65 



Vlll 



CONTENTS. 



The Face . 

Facial Ablutions, 

Complexion — Color, 

Wrinkles, .... 

Sunburn, ..... 

Freckles, ..... 

Warts, 

Skin Diseases of the Face, 
Depilatories, .... 

Washes and Cosmetics for the Face, 
Cosmetics for the Hands, Arms, etc. 
The Use of Rice Powder, 

Hair : 

Dark and Light, .... 

Hair Dressing, 

Care of the Hair, .... 

Cleansing of Hair, 

Diseases of the Hair, 

Baldness, .... 

Remedies for Falling Hair, . 

Pomades and Hair Oils, . 

Cleansing of Combs and Brushes, 



75 

81 

86 

92 

96 

100 

104 

106 

109 

ii5 

115 



117 

123 
127 
131 
135 
138 
141 
143 
145 



The Mouth : 

The Breath, 147 

The Lips, 150 

Lip Salve, 153 

The Teeth— Care of the Teeth, . . . 155 

Toothache, 163 

Powders, Dentifrices, and Flixirs, . . 166 
Tartar, . . . . . . . .170 

Children's Teeth, 172 



CONTENTS. 



IX 



The Voice : 

The Organ, . . . 
Trifling Throat Diseases, 
Remedies for Clearing the Voice, 

The Eyes : 

Language of the Eyes, 

Care of the Eyes, 

Eyelashes, .... 

Eyebrows, .... 

Other Counsels, 

The Nose: 

Its Abnormal Redness, 

Acne, or Blackheads, 

The Science of Rhinoplasty, 

The Ear : 

Cleansing the Ear, 

Precautions against Deafness, . 

The Acoustic Fan, 

The Hand : 

Its Beauty, .... 

Care of the Hands, 

Washing the Hands During the Day, 

Moist Hands, 

Sunburned Hands, 

Large Hands, 

Chapped Hands, 

Chilblains, 

Care of the Nails, 

Gloves, 

The Arm, 



175 
178 
180 



183 
188 
194 
195 
196 



IQ 7 
200 
204 



207 

208 



213 

215 
220 
222 
222 
224 
225 
231 

237 
240 

243 



CONTENTS. 



The Foot : 

Conditions of Beauty, . 
Choice of Shoes, .... 
Trying on Shoes, .... 
Care of the Feet, .... 
Ingrowing Nails, .... 
Corns, ...... 

Cramps, 

The Care of Shoes, .... 
How to Put on Lace or Button Shoes, 



245 
248 
250 
252 
255 
256 
261 
262 
264 



Mysteries of the Toilet : 

Lingerie, ..... 

Corsets and Their Detractors, 

Advantages of the Corset, 

How the Corset Should be Made, 

The Leg, ..... 

Garters, .... 

Securing the Stocking, 

The Chemise, . 

The Nightdress, 

Early Morning Toilet, . 

The Night Toilet, . 

Removal of Garments, . 



267 
270 
272 
274 
277 
278 
279 
281 
282 
283 
285 
285 



PART THIRD. 



Advice and Recipes : 
Feminine Diet, 
The Life one Should Lead, 
Secrets of Beauty, 
Pretty Octogenarians, . 



289 
297 

304 
306 



CONTENTS. 



XI 



Obesity and Leanness : 




Stout Women, ...=>,. 


■ 3ii 


How to Avoid Obesity, 


314 


How to Grow Thin, . 


• 315 


Thin Women, ..... 


319 


Means for Acquiring Flesh, 


. 321 


Concerning ^Esthetics, .... 


323 


Rational Coquetry, . 


■ 325 


The Art of Growing Old Gracefully, 


327 


Society Women, . . . . . 


• 329 


Art of Appearing Always Young, . 


332 


Grace of Movement, . 


• 333 


How to Walk, 


336 


Grace of Form, . . . . 


• 338 


Advice to Stout Women, 


340 


Good Taste in Dressing, . . . . 


• 342 



General Advice : 

Making Up, 349 

Various Hair Dyes, . . . . . .351 

Remedies for Softening and Strengthening the 

Skin, 354 

During and After Nursing, . . . -355 



Scented Waters, Concentrated Odors, Pomades : 

Scented Waters, . . . . . . 357 

Toilet Vinegars, .... . 362 

Concentrated Odors — Ancient Use of Per- 
fumes, ...... . 366 

Choice of Odors, 369 

Sachets, ....... 373 

Cold Cream, ....... 375 



Xll CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Scented Waters, etc. — Continued. 

Cucumber Cream, . . . . . 376 

Glycerine, . . . . . . 377 

Soaps, 378 

Rice Powder, 379 

How to Perfume Soaps, .... 380 



PART FOURTH. 

Jewels, Chiffons, and Laces. — Advice on Small Matters: 

Care of Jewels, 385 

Care of Furs, Feathers, and Woolen Goods, . 392 

Cleaning of Lace, ...... 396 

Cleaning and Washing Woolen Goods, . 400 

Cleaning of Silks, ...... 404 

Cleaning of Velvet, ..... 407 

Stains, ........ 408 

Odds and Ends, 413 

Appendix : 

Stings of Insects, 419 

Headache and Neuralgia, . . . . 421 

Inflammations, ...... 422 

Insomnia, . ...... 422 

Coryza, ........ 423 

Practical Recipes, ...... 425 

Table of Weights, ♦ ,,... 430 



My Lady's Dressing Room. 



WOMAN'S SANCTUARY. 

il But, sweetheart, I do implore secrecy" 

In every woman's home there is at 
least one room which bears the stamp 
of individuality, fashioned after her 
own nature, moral and physical. 

If her tastes are literary, this room 
may be her study, where she lives an 
intellectual life ; where she receives 
only her dearest and most sympathetic 
friends ; if domestic, her own apart- 
ment, wherein are centered her ten- 
derest maternal and conjugal interests. 
But the Holy of Holies is my lady's 



2 my lady's dressing room. 

dressing room, where the profane are 
not admitted, from which are excluded 
even her dearest ; in which the ignorant 
suppose that she admiringly contem- 
plates her perfections like some Buddha 
of the Hindoo heavens, or others imag- 
ine that she devotes herself to the prac- 
tice of sorcery in order to remain so 
amazingly young and pretty; where 
she undoubtedly lays plans for charm- 
ing and retaining her captives, through 
the cultivation of her physical beauty. 
This room reveals the woman as she 
truly is, whether her object in pre- 
serving her beauty be the mere gratifi- 
cation of her vanity, or the more praise- 
worthy ambition of retaining her hus- 
band's admiration and affection. It 
may be luxurious and yet remain chaste 
as the thoughts of a young girl ; or 
simple, and yet belong unquestionably 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. % 

to the most frivolous of coquettes. 
Here the woman asserts herself, and 
here her true nature, whatever it may 
be, is shown. Serious and trifling 
women must alike comprehend the 
importance of the perfect care of the 
body if they would remove or lessen 
the defects with which they were 
born. 

I do not here refer to those women 
who crave to be universally adored, 
who dream of having their chariots 
drawn by crowds of worthless men 
whom a single glance enthralls, of 
those women who, misled by a per- 
verted desire to please, borrow their 
power from empirical secrets, and so 
assuredly walk toward a premature old 
age and total loss of beauty. Neither 
do I wish to penetrate into the sanc- 
tuary of the false and unworthy. 



4 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

I speak only of the true woman who 
is anxious to retain her husband's love, 
who aspires, and rightfully, to remain 
attractive in his eyes. With this 
object in view, if it is coquetry for a 
woman to use all legitimate means for 
retaining her youth and beauty, then it 
is a rational coquetry. She who un- 
derstands such coquetry has listened 
to the divine injunction, "Adorn thy- 
self, remain beautiful that thou mayest 
delight the eye and heart of the man 
who is the support of thine adorable 
weakness, and with whom thou art to 
continue the long line of thine ances- 
tors. It is thy mission to please and 
to charm. Thou art the ideal in the 
hard life of man. Descend not from 
thy pedestal." 

The clever woman, who is also a 
loving and loyal wife, does not permit 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 5 

even her husband to cross the thresh- 
hold of her dressing room while en- 
gaged in the mysteries of her toilet. 
Not that she has anything criminal to 
conceal, but because one can never es- 
cape from the fatal realisms of the 
toilet, however beautiful, poetical, 
graceful, one may be. For example — 
a woman crimping her hair does 
not appear to advantage, and may 
even appear ridiculous. Besides, the 
trivialities of life always cause us to 
lose some of our prestige in the eyes 
of those who love us most. There- 
fore, let us not obtrude the prosaic 
things of life on the attention of those 
whom we most desire to please. It is 
unnecessary to remind the wise of 
our sex that, though in certain hours 
we may be goddesses, at other times 
we are only like all other women. 



6 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

The beauty of a woman and the 
beauty of a flower should be alike to 
man, the gift of God and Nature. It 
is not for him to question the inno- 
cent means used for preserving these 
charms. 

Is it not strange that we are willing 
to assume a thousand cares and re- 
sponsibilities, that we submit to all 
sorts of restraint and restrictions to 
build up a fortune, that we take such 
pains to please the most superficial ac- 
quaintance, that we strive even for the 
admiration of those unknown to us, and 
yet hesitate at any cost to hold forever 
the love and admiration of those near- 
est and dearest to us ? 

Some women will say that marriage 
is a mere slavery. I reply that care- 
lessness and general indifference are 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 7 

the causes of much marital unhappi- 
ness. 

Look frankly at the matter from this 
point of view and I feel certain you will 
agree with me that any sacrifice of 
ease or time is well worth while. The 
practice of the methods I suggest will 
not be difficult, and I feel sure you will 
derive much profit from the counsel 
given you in this little book. 

I cannot understand how a rather 
stout woman with over-developed legs 
and swollen ankles could be so cruel to 
herself as to walk about before her hus- 
band in a short skirt. After present- 
ing such a spectacle she can scarcely 
feel surprised that his eyes follow the 
graceful undulations of the lithe and 
supple form of a tall, slender woman. 

I have seen a young woman tie her 



8 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

scant and short hair with a greasy rib- 
bon, in such a way that it resembled 
a hideous little tail, or small broom. 
Afterw r ard she complained of the ad- 
miration her husband expressed in gaz- 
ing at a head of long and abundant 
hair. 

And so, my friends, it is right to hide 
our imperfections. There is no false- 
hood in it ; we do not expect our dear- 
est foes to expose their weaknesses. A 
woman who is indifferent regarding her 
own appearance cannot hope to pre- 
serve the admiration of her husband. 
On these points man loves to be de- 
ceived, and he is right. What is life, 
what is love, without illusion? 

I am tempted to say that the other 
half of humanity knows even less than 
the fair sex, how to preserve the pres- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 9 

tige with which a naive young girl in- 
vests her first love, and that a man's 
thoughtlessness, under such circum- 
stances, is utterly culpable. 

One should always take as much 
pains to preserve as to obtain. This 
refers equally to present and future 
happiness, and to natural gifts as well 
as to acquired ones. 

I am convinced that the ideas pre- 
sented in this book will be useful to 
all good women who wish to be happy, 
and to render others happy. 

The stronger sex will also find, I 
trust, more than one hint which will 
prove profitable, for, though the tyrant 
man must not cross the threshold of 
the feminine sanctuary, yet I have 
penetrated into the retreat where, 
though he pretends to be devoid of 



IO MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

vanity, he secretly worships Adonis. 
I can but approve the care he bestows 
on less delicate charms, which, however, 
have their own value and are the gifts 
of generous Nature. 

Baroness Staffe. 

MORSANG-SUR-ORGE. 



THE DRESSING ROOM. 

ITS FURNISHING. 
" With everything that pretty is 

The dressing" room of a fashionable 
woman should be as tasteful and com- 
fortable as her social position and for- 
tune permit : simply comfortable if she 
cannot afford luxury, but supplied at 
least with all things necessary and 
useful to a careful toilet. 

In the chapter devoted to the cere- 
mony of the bath I give a description 
of the room in which the bath is taken, 
but here I devote myself to the dress- 
ing room proper. 

The titled ladies of the eighteenth 
centurv. who enjoyed only limited 



12 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

opportunities for their ablutions, had 
their dressing rooms painted by Wat- 
teau, Boucher, Fragonard, etc., and it 
was here that they received their 
friends while they were being 
powdered, painted, and patched. We 
are too practical to expose delicate 
and exquisite works of art in this way 
to the steam and dampness of a room 
where both cold and hot water are 
used abundantly. 

The walls of some dressing rooms 
are covered with tiles in blue, pink, 
or sea-green. This produces a light, 
pleasant effect, but is somewhat cold to 
the eye. Generally draperies are pre- 
ferred. These should be of neutral 
or delicate tints, in order not to con- 
flict with the colors of the toilet. 
Frequently light or bright silks are 
covered with thin muslin in order to 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 13 

soften their tone and at the same time 
preserve their texture. 

Walls also may be covered with 
large figured cretonnes, or Jouy linens, 
but linen or cotton fabrics are always 
more or less cold and hard, and their 
large, gaudy designs often interfere 
seriously with the proper effect of my 
lady's gown, that is to say, prevent its 
being the prominent spot on which the 
light falls and to which the eye is 
attracted. 

I prefer a dressing room in which 
the principal color is a pale blue, 
or pink, or yellow, with draperies 
of figured muslin. These hangings, 
which harmonize with any colors 
of the toilet, may be held back by 
knots of ribbon. 

The floor should be covered by a 
rug of delicate color. From the ceil- 



14 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

ing should hang a chandelier to be 
lighted for the evening toilets, its 
candles securely forced into bobeches 
of colored crystal as a protection 
against dripping wax. This dressing 
room must be well lighted. The win- 
dows, of unpolished glass, may be 
ornamented with pretty designs and 
draped in silk and muslin, bordered 
with lace. 

Indispensable Accessories. 

There should be two dressing tables, 
facing each other, different in dimen- 
sions, but identical in form. 

The larger serves for the minor ab- 
lutions. It is provided with a water 
pitcher and bowl of porcelain, crystal, 
or silver, selected with the taste which 
distinguishes us in these days. The 
dressing table is draped like the walls. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 15 

Above it fasten a little shelf on which 
to place perfumes, smelling salts, den- 
tifrices, elixirs, etc., etc. Beside the 
bowl, place a soap dish, a box for 
brushes, etc., etc. 

The other smaller dressing table is 
surmounted by an adjustable mirror, 
framed in silk and muslin. The dec- 
orations are like the larger. The 
hair is dressed before this table. It is 
supplied with all needful accessories, 
beautiful brushes and combs marked 
with the crest of their owner, delicate 
perfumes, creams and lotions, powder 
boxes, powder puffs, manicure set, 
etc., etc. Projecting brackets for lights 
should be on each side of this table. 

The fireplace should be at the end 
of the room, facing the windows. On 
it place a porcelain clock and one or 
two vases of fresh flowers. At one side 



16 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

of the fireplace is a couch in blue or 
some other light color, brocaded with 
white, and here and there an ottoman 
and easy-chairs covered in subdued 
tints. 

On either side of the small toilet 
table place a wardrobe. One of them 
must have three mirrored doors. 
The wardrobe is no longer used in ar- 
tistic bed-rooms. It is within these 
doors (the two side ones open so as to 
enclose the beholder) that the effects 
of the hair dressing and toilet are re- 
flected at every angle. The other 
wardrobe may be of lacquered wood 
without mirrors, and decorated with 
paintings of flowers. In this keep 
the supplies of bran, starch, powder, 
pastes, soaps, etc., etc. 

Jugs and pails as well as bathgowns 
must be invisible. If there is no 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 17 

bath room attached to the dressing 
room, the tub — which we will speak of 
later — is brought into this room for 
the daily sponge bath, in lieu of that 
fuller bath which we are compelled to 
seek outside, or which sanitary reasons 
may forbid as a daily indulgence. 

A More Simple Dressing Room. 

The dressing room may be far more 
simple. One can expel from it all 
luxury, but a woman of taste will 
nevertheless succeed in making of it a 
charming little sanctuary, full of beauty. 

Select a tasteful wall paper. Cover 
the floor with a rug. Drape the pine 
tables with a valance of cretonne bor- 
dered with a ruffle. Spread over the 
table a linen scarf trimmed with inex- 
pensive lace, and on the table place 
bits of faience. Above it hang small 



1 8 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

brackets covered like the table, on 
which place the boxes, bottles, jewel 
cases, etc., which may be graceful and 
elegant despite their small cost. If the 
mirror is ordinary, conceal the frame 
by a drapery to correspond with the 
table. This is easily arranged by 
means of hidden tacks. Secure a 
very simple wardrobe, which you can 
greatly improve by painting and var- 
nishing. Conceal the water jugs and 
pails under the valance of the table. 

If you are obliged to keep your 
apparel in your dressing room you 
should have a few shelves at the end 
of the room on which to place the 
boxes, bundles, etc., and beneath them 
a few hooks from which to suspend 
garments. All this should be concealed 
behind curtains in harmony with the 
drapery of the dressing table, not too 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 1 9 

close to the wall, and so exposing the 
outline of the objects which it pretends 
to conceal, but hanging from the ceil- 
ing and projecting like an alcove. 
Under this drapery the zinc tub, which 
is not generally kept in view, may be 
hidden. Whenever it is possible, the 
dressing room should be large enough 
to move about in comfortably. 



THE BATH ROOM. 

ITS ARRANGEMENT AND APPOINTMENTS. 

" Fresh from her bath 
A rosy vision she." 

The furnishing of the bath room de- 
pends largely upon the means and 
tastes of its owner. The millionaires 
of New York have bath rooms which 
rival those of the Roman Empresses. 
In Europe, a few very rich women, 
actresses, etc., spend a great deal on 
the luxurious appointment of the bath 
room. The walls are of onyx, framed 
in brass moldings burnished daily. 
From the ceilings are suspended 
unique lanterns of rose-colored or 
irridescent crystal. Behind a rich Ori- 
ental drapery, hung on gilded rings, is 



22 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

concealed, when so desired, the rose- 
tinted marble bathtub. At the oppo- 
site end of the room, facing the tub, is 
a couch, covered by a white bear skin, 
on which, robed in an elegant dressing 
gown, the bather rests after the fa- 
tigues of the bath. 

In one corner, also usually con- 
cealed by a rich silken curtain, are 
placed the shower baths, from which 
descend gentle or heavy showers on 
the satin skin of the divinity of this 
sanctuary. In the opposite corner is 
the porcelain tub for the sponge bath. 
The interior of this tub is painted in 
natural colors with water lilies, roses, 
and arums. 

Besides the tub and bath are 
various conveniences, the faucets for 
hot, warm, and cold water, etc. The 
small utensils and accessories indis- 



MY LADY'S DRESSIXG ROOM. 2 3 

pensable to the bath are placed on 
convenient marble shelves. 

Utensils and Accessories. 

When the bath room serves also as 
a dressing room it must have a dress- 
ing table, on which is placed a large 
porcelain, china, or silver ewer and 
basin, and all the smaller articles 
should be in keeping. There must be 
a smaller dressing table at which the 
hair is dressed. The movable mirror 
which is hung above it must be 
framed in natural flowers, renewed 
daily. The combs, toilet bottles, small 
jars, etc., and the powder boxes must 
be artistic chefs-d'oeuvre made of pre- 
cious substances, ivory, tortoise shell, 
silver, etc. 

I had almost omitted to mention in 
its proper place the Dauphine bath, 



24 my lady's Dressing room. 

suitable for partial baths, and to 
enumerate the ottomans and low 
chairs covered with stuffs which are 
pleasant to the eye and soft to the 
touch, scattered here and there. 

One word also concerning the large 
wardrobe with its three mirror doors, 
in which is kept the bath linen, the 
bath gloves, the straps, in a word, 
all the usual paraphernalia, creams, 
patches, lotions, etc., which for ob- 
vious reasons must be concealed from 
every eye. 

There should not be in this lux- 
urious bath room a single gewgaw, or 
a gown, piece of lace, or bit of jewelry. 
The clothes are kept in closets, and 
the jewelry and precious articles in 
one's bedroom. 

But you will say that a bath room 
which is used in turn by all the mem- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 25 

bers of the family cannot serve at the 
same time as a dressing room, and 
besides we are not living in the land 
of dollars, nor among the fashion- 
ables. 

With the above suggestions it would 
be very easy to furnish a simple bath 
room, from which are banished all 
these unattainable elegancies, while at 
the same time preserving comfort. 
But we will add another description. 

Have the walls of this simpler bath 
room painted in oils (an imitation of 
marble if possible). Over the tile or 
wooden floor spread a carpet of lino- 
leum. Ornament the ground glass 
windows in the center with the mono- 
gram of the head of the house. 

Place in suitable positions the vari- 
ous tubs. Of course the large bath- 
tubs will be placed under the faucets, 



26 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

from which the hot and cold water pour 
into them, and near the drain through 
which the tubs are emptied. In front 
of these tubs is placed an india rubber 
mat, on which to step on leaving the 
bath. Within reach of the hand, that 
one may be able to secure the neces- 
sary articles while in the water, place 
shelves fastened to the wall for soap, 
sponges, etc. In many dressing rooms 
where the bath water is heated, the 
heater is provided with a drawer for 
linen, for it is necessary to use warm 
towels and to put on warm clothes 
on leaving the bath. These heaters 
can also be used to warm the dressing 
room. 

The wardrobe contains the bathing 
linen, towels, sponges, dressing sacks, 
etc. On the little shelves place also 
soap, boxes of starch, jars filled with 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 27 

bran, almond paste, perfumes, car- 
bonate of soda (crystal), etc., etc. 

On one corner place an alcohol 
lamp used in preparing aromatics for 
sudorific baths, which are sometimes 
required in case of illness. There 
are also portable heating machines for 
preparing the vapor douche, both dry 
and moist, and for moist vapor baths. 
These accessories, and the shower 
bath, the force pump for the douche, 
shower, etc., are usually concealed 
behind a portiere. 

Lastly, there should be a divan on 
which to repose after the bath, a small 
table in case one desires to take a cup 
of hot, weak tea, a few seats, and a 
sufficient number of racks on which to 
spread the dry and damp linen. A 
dressing table in this room would 
be useless. One can be more comfort- 



28 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

able in one's own dressing room or 
bed chamber. 

Daily Baths. 

A daily bath should be part of the 
moral laws of every class of society. 
If it is an impossibility to plunge 
daily into a bathtub, or if the doctor 
forbids a plunge bath, the sponge 
bath will prove sufficient for all pur- 
poses of cleanliness or health. 

The human skin is a complicated 
net, whose meshes must be kept open 
and unclogged, in order that through 
them the body may throw off its im- 
pure secretions, which must be gotten 
rid of under penalty of pain and suf- 
fering, and sometimes death. 

The healthy action of the skin is 
stimulated by the opening of the pores 
in the bath, especially if it is followed 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 29 

by friction with a brush or rough 
towel, etc. (Massage can be dispensed 
with if the touch of a strange hand is 
objectionable.) Many fevers and con- 
tagious diseases might be avoided by 
these means. 

In cases of internal inflammation, 
bilious colic, congestion, there is no 
surer remedy than the hot bath. This 
bath has also effected most astonishing- 
cures of obstinate constipation. When 
a person has been exposed to a con- 
tagious disease he should immediately 
take a hot bath. There is always a 
possibility that the disease will pass 
out through the pores of the skin. It 
should be remembered that it is very 
important to cool off gradually. 
Cleanliness of the skin has a de- 
cided influence on the assimilation of 
food by the body. It is known that 



30 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

well opened pores make a far finer 
skin than uncleanly people can boast. 

But I shall be accused of writing a 
medical treatise. I merely wish to 
show that the healthy expulsion which 
the body performs through the pores 
teaches us the necessity of keeping 
them open and perfectly clean ; the 
least impurity, the finest dust, being suf- 
ficient to obstruct these little openings 
which were provided by wise Nature. 

Think of the unfortunates of the 
Middle Ages, ignorant of the blessings 
of the bath ! " One thousand years 
without baths !" exclaims Michelet in 
one of his histories. Think of the 
pestilences, the hideous diseases which 
at that time scourged poor human- 
ity ! In the time of Henry IV. the 
habit of bathing was still rare, for 
it is recorded of one of the great men 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3 1 

of the day that he asked why the 
hands should be washed and not the 
feet. How horrible ! 

If we knew the personal uncleanli- 
ness of the beautiful women of to-day 
at the court of King Sun, we should 
involuntarily shudder with disgust. 

However, the famous coquettes in 
all times have recognized the advan- 
tages of the bath and ablutions. Isa- 
beau of Bavaria, to whom some learned 
man had mentioned the fact that Pop- 
paea, Nero's wife, had her porphyry bath 
filled with asses' milk, or the juice of 
strawberries, was not behind her in 
experiments of this nature. It was 
thought that chickweed was refreshing 
to the skin (which is perfectly true), 
and the unfortunate wife of Charles 
VI. bathed in strong decoctions of this 
plant, 



32 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Anne Boleyn also took baths. You 
are doubtless familiar with the degrad- 
ing sycophancy of the English noble- 
men who filled their glasses from her 
bath while she was in it, and drank to 
her health, with revolting jests. 

Diana of Poitiers plunged daily into 
a bath of rain water. 

In the eighteenth century, the ladies 
of the nobility wanted milk baths, like 
Poppaea, or chickweed, like Isabeau ; of 
almond paste, of flesh w r ater (in which 
veal had been boiled), of the tears of 
the vine, of " distilled honey of the 
rose," of melon juice, of the milky 
juice of green barley, of flaxseed, to 
which was added the balsam of Mecca 
rendered soluble by the yolk of an egg. 
These were undeniably good for the 
skin ; but cleanliness does not require 
all these accessories. 



MY LADY'S DkESSWG ROOM. 33 

A small bathtub invented for the use 
of the Dauphiness (Marie Antoinette) 
still bears her name. It is a round- 
bottomed basin, supported by a frame- 
work of wood and mounted on feet, 
the continuation of the woodwork 
forming an ornamental upholstered 
back. (In our daf this is usually 
made of zinc.) For her full baths the 
princess had a decoction of wild thyme 
and marjory prepared, to which was 
added sea salt. The formula of this 
bath was made by Fagon, the chief 
physician of Louis XIV., who ordered 
these baths to be taken cold in winter 
and warm in summer, to bring the tem- 
perature of the skin into harmony with 
the atmosphere. 

Marie Czetwertynoska, the mistress 
of Alexander I. of Russia, would only 
bathe in Malaga wine. This wine was 



34 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

afterward bottled and sold to people 
who were not ignorant of the purpose 
it had served. 

Cold, Hot, and Sponge Baths. 

Some people take a cold water 
plunge daily. One must be very 
healthy to stancf such a bath, and I 
would advise no one to indulge in it 
until a physician has been consulted. 
Even when the cold bath has been 
prescribed, it is well merely to plunge 
in and get out immediately. The 
water should be from 50 to 59 
Fahrenheit. Friction is indispensable 
after these baths. 

The full hot bath is beneficial to 
those who have a tendency to ver- 
tigo. Its temperature should not ex- 
ceed 92 . The tepid bath is the 
most in use. The water may be 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 35 

heated to suit any taste from 68° 
to 96 . 

It is a mistake to prolong this bath. 
One should not remain in it longer 
than from fifteen to thirty minutes un- 
less otherwise ordered by the physi- 
cian. 

When the full bath is unattainable 
the sponge bath answers all the re- 
quirements of cleanliness. The pores 
of the skin are opened and cleansed, 
which takes but a few moments. In- 
stead of the bathtub and all its acces- 
sories, one needs only a large zinc tub, 
a pail, and a small basin of water. 
First pour the water over the chest, 
then over the back, by squeezing the 
sponge, which has been well soaked 
in the basin. In this way each part of 
the body is cleansed except the neck 
and ears, which require more minute 



36 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

attention and the finest of sponges and 
towels. Then we proceed to the more 
complicated cleansing of the hands, 
which demand other treatment. Dry 
with warm Russian towels. 

In the sponge bath first use warm 
water, then, if one is in good health, 
lower the temperature of the water 
until, finally, the bath can be taken 
cold. In all cases the temperature 
of the room must be moderately 
warm. People whose lungs are weak 
should always bathe in warm water. 

Of massage and friction we will 
speak later on. When one has been 
well rubbed after the bath, a quick 
walk in the fresh air is very advanta- 
geous. 

Partial baths, of any kind, are almost 
always taken warm. It is unwise to 
bathe immediately after eating, as it 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. Zl 

seriously interferes with digestion. 
There should be at least three or 
four hours between a full repast and 
a bath. 

The soap used for the bath must be 
perfectly pure and very slightly per- 
fumed, if at all. 

It is contrary to the rules of refine- 
ment or hygiene to bathe in water 
which has already done service for 
others, however healthy they may be. 
Mothers who take their children into 
the bath with them are doubtless igno- 
rant of the fact that this is most injuri- 
ous to these little creatures, whose 
delicate skins may absorb the effluvia, 
which are always unwholesome and 
often dangerous.* 

* I have translated these pages literally, as their own 
best commentary on a condition of things for which we 
could find no parallel in the United States. It must be 
recollected that these are the words of a French noble- 



3 8 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 



Soothing and Refreshing Baths. 

I shall not refer to Russian baths, 
or Turkish baths, or even to vapor 
baths. The last belong to the province 
of physicians, who alone are fitted to 
prescribe them ; the others require sur- 
roundings which it is impossible to 
secure in a home. 

But there are some baths within the 

woman accustomed to every luxury. I question if a well- 
to-do mechanic in America would consent to live and rear 
his children where a bath would mean a half hour or more 
passed " near the drain through, which the tubs are emptied," 
and I should consider her a courageous woman who would 
venture to suggest to the lowliest of our countrywomen that 
" It is contrary to the rules of refinement or hygiene to 
bathe in water which has already done service for others, 
however healthy they may be. Mothers who take their 
children into the bath with them are doubtless ignorant of 
the fact that this is most injurious to these little creatures," 
etc. The American might not have the vaguest idea of the 
definition of the word hygiene, but she would be certain to 
experience a feeling of disgust at the suggestion in the first 
part of this undoubtedly well-meant advice, and her sense 
of decency alone would prevent her from permitting her 
children to share her bath. — H. H. A. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 39 

reach of home hygienics which can be 
recommended with a clear conscience.* 

In the springtime, when one is more 
susceptible to cold than at any other 
season of the year, it is best to bathe at 
night, just before going to bed, in order 
that the skin may profit by the warm 
moisture which it retains for several 
hours after leaving the bath. A deli- 
cious bath for this season is prepared 
from the barren strawberry plant or 
wild cowslip. Three handfuls of these 
perfectly fresh flowers are thrown into 
the bath, which is rendered odorous 
and soothing through the potency of 
their pale golden corollas. 

The strawberry and raspberry bath 
into which Mme. Tallien plunged every 
morning (according to the gossips of 
the day) is prepared in the following 

*The electric bath, if given by a trained expert, is re- 
freshing, invigorating and soothing. — H. H. A. 



4^ MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

manner : Twenty pounds of strawber- 
ries, two of raspberries ; the fruit is 
crushed and thrown into the bathtub. 
The body emerges fresh and perfumed, 
with skin soft as velvet, and tinted a 
pale rose color. 

The bath of lilacs, which is equally 
odorous, is very calming to an overex- 
cited nervous system. 

A strong concoction of spinach also 
makes an excellent bath ; but a recipe 
just as good for making the skin fresh 
and delicate is the following : sixty 
grammes of glycerine, one hundred 
grammes of rose water, diluted in two 
quarts of water and poured into the 
bath five minutes before using. 

Some women dissolve almond paste 
in their bath and perfume it with vio- 
let. Others prefer oatmeal and orange 
flowers. Others use also benzoin bath 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 41 

liquid, which imparts a milky appear- 
ance to the water. 

The bran bath softens and refreshes 
the skin. For this bath put two 
pounds of bran into the tub with a 
small quantity of water, three hours 
before the bath. Of course the bran 
must be contained in a small linen 
sack.* 

A bath of aromatic salts may be pre- 
pared without much expense. Crush 
into powder some carbonate of soda 
and sprinkle it with aromatic essences ; 
only a small quantity of these ingre- 
dients is necessary. This may be pre- 
pared at home. Then take essence of 
fine lavender, 15 grammes; essence of 
rosemary, 10 grammes ; essence of eu- 

* Bran and almond-meal bags, ready for immediate use, 
may now be obtained in America. They are far superior 
to the bran alone, and considered indispensable for the bain 
de luxe, — H. H. A. 



42 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

calyptus, 5 grammes ; carbonate of 
soda (crystallized), 600 grammes. Pow- 
der the crystals, add the essences, 
mix together. Keep the bottles well 
corked. For a full bath 315 grammes 
of this compound will be required. 
For toilet purposes one coffeespoon- 
ful of the mixture to a quart of 
water. 

An aromatic bath is invaluable as a 
tonic. Take 500 grammes of wild 
thyme and marjory and three quarts of 
boiling water. Steep one hour, strain 
and pour into the bath. 

A bath both strengthening and de- 
licious is made thus : Dissolve half 
a pound of crystallized carbonate of 
soda in the bath water, pour in two 
handfuls of powdered starch, add one 
coffeespoonful of essence of rosemary. 
The temperature of the bath should 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 43 

be from 96 to 98 .* Do not remain 
in longer than twenty minutes. 

When the nervous system is ex- 
hausted, the following will renew its 
vigor somewhat : one ounce of ammo- 
nia in a pail of water, f The flesh will- 
become as firm and smooth as marble. 

I will not conclude this chapter with- 
out a suggestion for the benefit of 
rheumatic persons which will mitigate 
their sufferings. Make an emulsion of 
200 grammes of soft soap and 120 
grammes of spirits of turpentine ; stir 
until the mixture forms a heavy suds. 
For one bath take half of this mixture, 
which has a most agreeable odor of 
pine. After remaining five minutes in 
the hot water, perfumed by the ad- 

* This will make a very strong soda bath, and in many 
cases will leave the skin unpleasantly dry. — H. H. A. 

f In my opinion an ounce of ammonia is sufficient for a 
full bath. It will not always have the effects here de- 
scribed.— H. H. A. 



44 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

dition of the emulsion, one is sen- 
sible of a marked relief from pain, 
and a healthy glow is imparted to the 
whole body. At the end of a quarter 
of an hour a pricking sensation is felt, 
which is not at all disagreeable. Sleep 
follows immediately on retiring, and 
there is a marked improvement on 
awaking. 

Massage and Friction. 

The word massage is derived from a 
Greek word, Masso, I knead. 

The masseur or masseuse kneads 
with the hand every muscular part 
of the body, exercises a traction on 
the joints in order to make them sup- 
ple, and excites the vitality of the 
skin. 

This practice comes from the East. 
Massage was known to the ancients, 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 45 

and the Romans practiced it. In the 
Russian massage, the hand of the mas- 
seuse is covered with a well-soaped 
glove. Sometimes the massage is 
followed by a light flagellation of 
birch switches. 

Massage should follow the bath and 
not precede it. The skin, moistened 
by the water or vapor, becomes more 
supple or flexible, and is more easily 
kneaded. The patient is greatly 
fatigued when she leaves the hands of 
the masseuse, but this feeling is soon 
followed by a sensation of rest and 
comfort. It is dangerous to resort too 
frequently to massage ; any excess will 
be followed by weakness instead of re- 
newed strength. I have seen the good 
effects of massage in more than one 
form of disease, and in various cli- 
mates. But in France a healthy woman 



46 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

would be unwilling to submit to it, 
even though that country had well 
trained masseuses, which is not the 
case.* 

Fortunately, ordinary friction can re- 
place this practice without assistance, 
thanks to the various appliances for the 
purpose of rubbing one's self over the 
shoulders and back, where the hands 
cannot reach easily. The friction is 
produced either with the bare hand, 
or by means of gloves or bands of horse 
hair, or of rough woolen or linen cloth. 
When no liquid is employed such fric- 
tion is called dry. 

* Facial massage, which has fallen largely into the hands 
of charlatans, is dangerous if abused, and the practice of 
frequently steaming the face cannot be too strongly con- 
demned. In Paris, where the hygienic treatment origina- 
ted, the face is never steamed oftener than once a month. 
A celebrated singer, anxious to retain the roundness and 
beauty of her throat, employed a masseuse daily. This ex- 
cess of zeal resulted in almost total paralysis of the vocal 
chords.— H. H. A. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 47 

If you do not employ a masseuse, rub 
yourself vigorously after the full or 
sponge bath. For the back and loins 
hold the band in both hands and keep 
it moving rapidly. This mode of fric- 
tion I recommend highly because it 
can be accomplished without assistance. 
It increases the strength, the vigor, 
improves the health and, consequently, 
the beauty. After dry friction the 
body may be rubbed with a piece of 
flannel saturated in Russian aromatic 
vinegar or in alcohol. 

I could write a very learned chapter 
on friction, under the dictation of one 
of my friends, but I am not a physician, 
and merely desire to give a few hygienic 
suggestions. It will be easy to procure 
a treatise on this subject from the pen 
of Dr. Gustave Monod, written with 
the clearness and good nature which 



48 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

are the distinguishing traits of this great 
surgeon, a man who marks each day by 
some noble action. 

Sea baths. River baths. 

A sea bath should not be taken on 
the day one arrives at a seaside resort. 
The diet needs to be modified, and all 
wine, coffee, and spirituous liquors 
should be abstained from, and the sys- 
tem allowed to become accustomed to 
salt air. The time selected should be 
when the tide is still. At low tide and 
at high tide, there are objections which 
it would take too much time to explain. 
It is unwise to take an ocean bath with- 
in three hours after eating. 

It is dangerous also to bathe when 
excited ; when suffering from acute or 
chronic disease, after a sleepless night, 
or after violent exercise. One should 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 49 

neither walk hurriedly to the beach nor 
bathe immediately after sleeping. Un- 
dress leisurely, and when the bathing 
costume is on walk up and down the 
sands in order to avoid the shock of a 
sudden plunge into the ocean. 

It would be well for delicate women 
and children to take off their shoes and 
stockings a little time before going into 
the water, to warm their feet on the 
sand ; for people with poor circulation a 
glass of wine is recommended. 

It is ruinous to a woman's hair to wet 
it, and no longer deemed necessary. 
Remain in the water only a few mo- 
ments unless unusually vigorous. On 
leaving the water walk slowly to the 
bath house and rub yourself dry. Dress 
leisurely, and if the hair is wet dry it 
immediately, allowing it to remain un- 
confined for half an hour. Exercise in 



go MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

the open air is necessary after this 
bath. 

As for infants, it is extremely dan- 
gerous to give them a sea bath before 
they are at least two years old. Even 
at this age, if they fear the waves, they 
should not be taken in. Young chil- 
dren lack the vitality to react vigor- 
ously, and without this, immersion is 
injurious. No child should be forced 
to endure the shock of the waves which 
it fears, since it is unwholesome to bathe 
while under the influence of violent 
emotions, and there is none stronger 
than fear. 

Give the child its' bath in a tub of salt 
water. Then allow it to run on the 
sand and pebbles, and wet its feet in 
the holes where the retreating waves 
have left their waters. It will thus take 
a sun and salt air bath. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 5 1 

In this way it will become accustomed 
gradually to the sound of the waves, 
their strength and violence, and be at- 
tracted toward them. It will dream of 
being cradled on them as on its mother's 
breast. Soon it will rush into the waves 
and laugh at their rude caresses. 

River bathing has many attractions 
for the young and strong, and is very 
strengthening to feeble persons who 
take it under favorable circumstances. 
It should not be prolonged, even when 
one is strong and healthy, for fa- 
tigue brings on cramps and danger. 
Neither should one indulge i n this 
sport, for it is a sport, without under- 
standing the current of the water. 
One unused to river bathing should 
ask advice from those accustomed 
to it. 

The river bath requires all the pre- 



52 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

cautions mentioned in regard to sea 
baths. After a storm one should re- 
frain from this bath, as the water be- 
comes muddy. It should be avoided 
also on rainy and cool days during the 
summer. 

Hydropathy and Hydropathic Appli- 
ances. 

We will first consider the derivation 
of this word, which comes from the 
Greek (not that I understand the lan- 
guage of Homer, but I have a wise 
friend from whom I derive my Hel- 
lenic information). Hydro means 
water; pathy, cure or treatment. 

Hydropathy is a mode of treatment 
for diseases, especially in chronic cases, 
exclusively through the use of cold 
water, employed in the form of 
douches, baths, ablutions, etc. It also 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. S3 

includes wrapping the patient, who is 
stripped and placed in bed, in blankets, 
and requiring him to drink abundantly 
of cold water. Perspiration is induced, 
and he is placed in a cold bath and 
wrapped in damp sheets. However, 
cold water should not be used inter- 
nally or externally without the advice 
of a physician, this treatment requiring 
a practice and experience which is only 
possessed by the medical profession. 
Be it known, however, that the tem- 
perature of the water should not be 
more than 48 nor less than 42 above 
zero. The proper temperature is 48 . 
It is not always easy to procure this 
constant and invariable temperature 
of 48 . It can always be found in 
the Hydropathic Establishment of Di- 
vonne, in the Province of Ain, between 
the eastern slope of the Jura and the 



54 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Lake of Geneva. Several springs 
there unite, and their union forms a 
torrent which is joined by the moun- 
tain torrent. This body of water sup- 
plies with the health-giving properties 
the pools which are devoted to the 
different modes of treatment. It was 
in this place that I studied hydro- 
pathy under all its forms, and received 
all its benefits. After a few plunges 
into the pools and the vigorous friction 
which follows, one realizes a sensation 
of comfort and warmth, an invigoration 
throughout the whole body, the vitality 
of which seems to have been renewed. 
Water at 48 seems glacial to the 
body which has a normal temperature 
of 98°. When one plunges into the 
pool it is hard to decide whether the 
water is freezing cold or burning hot. 
It feels as though one had been stung 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 55 

by nettles. The immersion should not 
last over two minutes ; on leaving the 
water the patient should be briskly 
rubbed until dry. (It reminds one of 
the rubbing down of a sweating horse.) 
If exercise is taken, or one is covered 
with blankets, a warm glow follows. 

You need not fear taking cold from 
these sudden shocks by plunging into 
freezing water on leaving your warm 
bed while still moist from its heat. 
This is because the body has not had 
time to lose its natural heat ; it receives 
a strong shock, and the skin is stung 
by the cold water as though pricked by 
pins. The cold is confined to the outer 
skin, and the blood soon returns to 
the surface. I assure you that you 
cannot take cold, and that hydropathy 
will cure a cold in its incipiency. 

This ice-water treatment, which 



56 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

seems hard to bear, and which frightens 
you, becomes a pleasure, not only to 
the more robust of humanity, but even 
to the most delicate women, especially 
if they can get the hydropathic treat- 
ment in their own homes. Many of 
them are passionately fond of cold baths 
and of douches, which are sometimes 
administered in a stream, and again in 
fine showers which cover the whole 
body. The latter douche, administered 
in a circle, is called the crinoline 
douche. What memories are revived 
by that name ! Can you not see the 
women of i860 in their balloon 
dresses ? The crinoline douche greatly 
pleases the more beautiful half of 
humanity. " The circular douche is a 
love of a douche, an elegant invention. 
It is voluptuous ; it is like a real dew 
which caresses as softly as a bunch of 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 57 

feathers;" thus an invalid of Divonne 
enthusiastically expressed herself. 

In fact, all the different methods of 
administering cold water are delightful 
to women in general, on account of 
the benefit they receive, and because 
their quivering nerves are toned and 
soothed. 

The maillot deserves also to be de- 
scribed. It is a pack. In one mo- 
ment you are bandaged within the 
folds of a wet sheet, under two 
blankets, one of cotton, an eiderdown 
coverlet, and still another covering. 
All this is tightened, and fits closely to 
the body. I defy you to move hand 
or foot thus covered and strapped. 
Soon you feel the return of warmth ; 
then you are thrown into the pool ; 
the effect is instantaneous, agreeable, 
and soothing. 



58 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

It is perfectly true that many 
chronic maladies, hitherto considered 
beyond remedy, have been cured by 
the practice of hydropathy. The fair 
sex has also derived benefit from all 
forms of this treatment. It is not to 
be denied that sudden changes of 
temperature, even the most violent, 
when followed by reaction, restore 
warmth to the surface, strengthen the 
functions of the skin, are a tonic to 
the muscles, relax the nerves ; and 
feminine beauty profits by all these re- 
sults. 

I will not enumerate the diseases 
cured at Divonne, as we are only con- 
sidering the subject from a certain 
point of view. 

Of course the hydropathic cure will 
be more perfect, more satisfactory in 
the institution of which we have 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 59 

spoken, but at least in some respects it 
is possible to secure its benefits at 
home. 

Baths, douches, showers, applications 
of cold water, friction, massage, all 
these are possible at home with certain 
surroundings. This is the reason why 
we have the necessary hydropathic ap- 
pliances put in our bath rooms. The 
douche is taken by means of small 
force pumps through which we obtain, 
ad hoc, the water from reservoirs, under 
small or great pressure. 

When the liquid column falls verti- 
cally, the douche is called descending ; 
when it is directed horizontally, lat- 
eral ; coming up from beneath, as- 
cending. 

In the first two mentioned, the res- 
ervoir is quite high and the tube 
large ; the stream is, therefore, quick 



60 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

and powerful ; this constitutes the 
douche proper. In the latter, the res- 
ervoir is rather low and the tube small. 
The douche differs from the affusion ; 
the latter requires that the water 
should be applied by closer contact 
than by the douche. 

Cleansing of Sponges. 

There is nothing more repulsive than 
a greasy sponge, which looks, though 
it may not be, soiled. It inspires pro- 
found disgust. Soak such a sponge in 
milk for twelve hours. After this time 
rinse it in cold water and it will be- 
come new, minus, of course, the wear 
and tear. Lemon juice bleaches spon- 
ges admirably. 

Sponges always become greasy and 
fishy, and then they are disgusting, 
despite cleansing with soap, which is not 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 61 

effectual. Chlorohydrate acid must be 
used, as it will remove the grease and 
bleach the sponge ; a single spoonful 
in a pint of water will be sufficient. 
Carbonate of soda may also be used 
for this purpose. 

These are very minute details, but 
essential, which the mistress of the 
house should superintend herself ; serv- 
ants often consider them too insignifi- 
cant to receive attention. 



PART SECOND. 



PART SECOND. 



GENERAL CARE OF THE 
BODY. 



CLEANLINESS OF THE BODY. 
" I will give out divers schedules of my beauty." 

Confidential Hygienic Advice, 

"Cleanliness is a half virtue," said 
Alexandre Dumas, " uncleanliness is a 
vice and a half." This is not severe 
enough ; uncleanliness is an ugly vice, 
a low vice, and it has always been a 
surprise to me that women can be re- 
proached with it, especially as it is 
65 



66 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

incompatible with their desire to be 
beautiful and beloved. 

During the darkness of the Middle 
Ages cleanliness was condemned as a 
remnant of ancient times (when the 
value of bathing was highly appreci- 
ated) and it was in the midnight 
darkness of those thousand years that 
this virtue was looked upon as a sacri- 
lege. 

It is, on the contrary, a sacrilege 
not to care for the body, which should 
be daily cleansed from the impurities 
imposed upon it by the conditions of 
physical life. 

Even in this day, young girls leave 
school with limited ideas concerning 
cleanliness. Many mothers neglect to 
teach their daughters this part of hy- 
giene, or to compel them to adopt the 
fastidious habits which they them- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 67 

selves have slowly acquired, not 
always without mortification. 

Woman should keep her person with 
the most exquisite and refined clean- 
liness, that she may not fall short of 
man's ideal. Let mothers reject the 
stupid prudishness which influences 
them. A clean body is the neces- 
sary complement to a chaste nature, 
proper modesty, and refined habit. I 
knew an admirable mother, Danish by 
birth, English by education, French in 
her heart and by marriage. She was 
a pure woman with the highest sense of 
honor, and believed so thoroughly in 
the necessity of perfect cleanliness that 
she inculcated all its principles in her 
children. She often said, " I have 
never been able to understand why it 
is not quite as important to keep the 
body clean as the soul or mind." 



68 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

The Romans bathed their bodies 
before entering the Temple. Oriental 
religions require ablution before prayer. 
Does not this rule, which is hygienic 
as well as religious, prove that physi- 
cal purity should accompany moral 
purity? The Koran constantly insists 
upon the necessity of frequent bathing. 

While we are in so many respects 
superior to the Orientals, should we 
desire, on these all-important points, 
to remain far inferior to them ? 

Physicians, who are consulted by all 
classes, are forced to admit that we 
have progressed but little in cleanli- 
ness. We may justly ask why those 
who care for our bodies do not teach 
us that physical " half virtue " as the 
physicians of the soul teach us purity 
of spirit and mind. In ancient times 
they were inseparable ; as proof of this 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 69 

I will refer to that Normandy super- 
stition which existed sixty years ago, 
and perhaps still exists : as soon as a 
person died a large basin of clear water 
was prepared, " in order that the soul 
might purify itself before taking its 
flight. ,, I see in this a symbol of 
those ancient religions which com- 
manded ablutions as a means of puri- 
fication, concealing the hygienic law 
under the theocratic. 

Shall we in this period of brilliant 
civilization continue to ignore the 
most elementary rules of human dig- 
nity? 

Animals, which do not possess our 
hands with their opposing thumbs, 
which have none of our means for se- 
curing cleanliness, clean their bodies, 
lick their fur, or prune their feathers 
through some hygienic instinct, and 



7° MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

yet man, their king by virtue of his 
reason and divine intelligence, neglects 
his body ! Woman, that marvelous 
creation, will submit to having her 
satin skin, with its pearly tints, dis- 
honored by impurities ! No, no. The 
noble human body should be relig- 
iously cleansed each night and each 
morning from the stains and impurities 
which may attach to it, and which are 
the result of its being subjected to the 
material and animal laws under which 
it exists. Since we are not pure spir- 
its, and must live as human beings, we 
are forced to submit to the conditions 
of our life, but we have it in our power 
to ameliorate them. 

Believe me, cleanliness draws us 
nearer to the angels of light ; unclean- 
iiness, on the contrary, tends to draw 
us nearer our earthy origin. Cleanli- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 11 

ness is indispensable to health and 
beauty. 

To keep the pores of the skin open, 
one should bathe daily in cold or warm 
water; ill health and age are thus re- 
tarded. The result of uncleanliness is 
a flabby and unwholesome condition. 
The well cleansed skin is soft, smooth, 
fresh ; a skin on which perspiration and 
dust have accumulated in layers be- 
comes dry and feverish. But it may 
be said that it is not possible for the 
greater number of people to take a 
daily bath, as they lack the facilities 
and the time. The sponge bath — 
which is all sufficient for the purposes 
of cleanliness— requires only a few 
moments each day. Once or twice a 
week at least, one should take the time 
necessary for a full bath. This is the 
very least attention our bodies require. 



7 2 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

It is not possible to fix the maxi- 
mum of cleanliness, for there is no dan- 
ger of our exceeding it. There are 
persons so scrupulously clean that they 
wash the esophagus, the stomach, 
and the intestines every morning, 
swallowing, for this purpose, a large 
glass of water, either hot or cold, ac- 
cording to the state of the health ; 
others have recourse to Moliere's in- 
strument, solely as a means of securing 
cleanliness. We take it for granted that 
they are as careful to secure the clean- 
liness of the exterior of their bodies. 

The least neglect of cleanliness is 
inexcusable. We wrong ourselves if 
we do not respect our bodies suffi- 
ciently to keep them vigorously clean 
and spotless. Nature soon punishes 
us for carelessness by sending disease 
and premature old age upon us. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 73 

Immersions and baths, with the aid 
of soap, lotions, etc., will render the 
body strong and flexible, and give it a 
power of resistance. Water has the 
virtue of dispelling fatigue and destroy- 
ing the germs of disease. While cleans- 
ing the body it purifies our souls and 
gives us " A healthy mind in a healthy 
body." 



THE FACE. 

FACIAL ABLUTIONS. 

" 'Tts not the eye, the lip, we beauty call, 
But the joint force, and full result of all. '' 

It is well known that the pores of 
the skin should be kept open in order 
to perform thoroughly their functions, 
and that washing is an excellent means 
to relieve them of the secretions or 
accumulations which obstruct and 
close them. 

Mme. Patti has been accused of 
never washing her face,* but this is 
contrary to all laws of hygiene. There 
are, however, precautions to be taken 
when washing the face. If there is 

* There is, of course, no truth in this statement. — 
H. H. A. 



76 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

any eruption on the face, warm water 
should be used. By this means the 
blood is driven away and the con- 
gestion relieved. 

When it is very warm, or when the 
face is heated, do not wash in cold 
water. Bathe with warm water with 
pure soap. Take care to rinse thor- 
oughly, so as to remove every particle 
of soap. Powder lightly, allowing the 
powder to dry on the face. 

The face should be then carefully 
wiped on a piece of soft linen. Rough 
friction, with a coarse towel, has the 
effect of thickening some skins. It is 
well to remember that the skin requires 
the same delicate care that we bestow 
on fine porcelain or other rare treasures. 

The face should never be washed in 
too much water ; that is, water should 
not be dashed upon the face. Facial 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 77 

ablutions should not be too frequent, 
repeated several times in the course of 
a day. 

I know one celebrated beauty who 
always washes her face with her own 
dainty hand. She then dries it on a 
soft piece of thin flannel. A flat facial 
sponge is better than the hand. 

It is said that one of our society 
beauties every night on going to bed 
saturates a toilet towel in very hot 
water, wrings it, and applies it to her 
face, keeping it there for half an hour. 
This woman has no wrinkles. 

A woman, fifty years old, whose skin 
is as smooth as that of a young girl, has 
never used anything on her face but hot 
water, which she believes prevents the 
skin from becoming flaccid and wrinkled. 
One of her friends does the same, but 
immediately after washes her face in 



73 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

cold water (Russian bath), and her 
sister uses hot water at night and cold 
in the morning. 

All these apparent contradictions 
depend doubtless on different condi- 
tions of the skin. A well known 
physician advises washing the face 
in cold water in the winter, and in 
summer in warm or hot water, thus 
establishing harmony with the existing 
temperature. All of my relatives, who 
have fine complexions, bathe in cold 
water. Hard water, which does not 
dissolve the soap, should not be used 
for bathing, especially the face. If 
one cannot obtain either rain or river 
water, one should at least soften the 
hard water by using a little borax or a 
few drops of ammonia. 

Alcoholic essences in the water in 
which the face is washed are very inju- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 79 

rious.* Too frequent applications of 
alcohol to the skin dry and harden it, 
and prevent the performance of its 
functions and its consequent nourish- 
ment by the air and the humidity of 
the atmosphere. 

On the other hand it is inadvisable 
to expose the face to the air immedi- 
ately after washing it. Such exposure 
is apt to make the skin coarse and 
rough. Half an hour at least should 
elapse before going out. It is for this 
reason that women of leisure prefer to 
wash their faces at bed time. 

It is necessary to use soap on the 
face. It should be carefully chosen — 
which subject will be considered later 
— not used too frequently, and never 
in very warm weather. 

* A little scented water may be used without harm, and 
is a tonic for the skin. — H. H. A. 



80 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Lemon juice cleanses the skin very 
well, and sometimes serves the purpose 
better than soap. Strawberry juice 
has the same effect, besides being very 
improving to the skin. 

A walk in the rain is more cleans- 
ing to the face than a Turkish bath. 
Wrapped in a hooded waterproof cloak, 
walk for an hour in the rain without an 
umbrella, allowing the face to be del- 
uged by the heavy or fine showers. 
Not only the rain but the moisture in 
the atmosphere will dampen the tis- 
sues and wash them thoroughly, effac- 
ing from the skin those wrinkles 
produced by the artificial heat of the 
house, the results of a dry atmosphere. 
Tranquil, sufficient sleep and walk- 
ing through the rain, it is said, were 
the only beauty philters employed by 
Diane de Poitiers, who walked each 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 81 

day, no matter what the weather, and 
never used an umbrella, for the very 
good reason that they had not yet 
revived that Roman custom. 

Complexion. Color. 

Caucasian women have always been 
and always will be interested in the 
purity, the freshness, and the brilliancy 
of their complexions. It is perfectly 
true that a fine color and a fair skin 
are great attractions, and no woman 
can ever be beautiful if her complexion 
is poor. 

We often think that the color and 
texture of the skin may be improved 
by external means. This is, to some 
extent, a mistake. The complexion, 
whatever it may be, depends much on 
the health, the constitution, and the 
temperament. It is plain that we 



82 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

should look to hygiene rather than to 
cosmetics to supply the defects of 
color. 

There are families in which a fine 
complexion is inherited. It may be 
taken for granted that the race is 
healthy, pure-blooded, has never been 
tainted by those horrible diseases 
which afflict humanity. A celebrated 
beauty was once asked the secret of 
the rose tint of her cheeks, the deli- 
cacy of her veined skin. " Healthy 
and virtuous ancestors," was her laconic 
reply. 

A complexion which is too highly 
colored, especially if the color is 
deep and extends over nearly the 
whole surface, is neither desirable from 
an aesthetic nor from a hygienic stand- 
point. It indicates plethora. It will 
be noticed that those persons who are 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. &3 

afflicted with high color, whose eyes 
even are veined in red, are usually 
large eaters, lovers of ease, and that 
they are averse to fatiguing exercises. 
In order to tone down their color, they 
should restrain the appetite, select less 
succulent food, take less ease, and dis- 
cipline their bodies, for their blood 
is too rich. Their health will be im- 
proved by the directions here given; 
headaches, confusion of thought, diz- 
ziness, will disappear. From violent, 
the color will become merely brilliant, 
which is a very different thing, for 
even very bright color is not objection- 
able when it covers only the cheek as 
it makes the rest of the face fairer by 
contrast. 

The hectic flush, which is only seen 
on the cheek-bone, is too often an indi- 
cation of consumption. Unfortunately 



84 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

hygiene alone is not sufficient to re- 
move the cause. 

When the complexion is muddy, 
wan, pasty, too white, greenish, yellow, 
or purple, it is always a sign of bad 
health. A muddy skin is sometimes 
natural, but more frequently indicates 
dyspepsia, feeble circulation, etc. 

A pale skin is usually due to a life 
spent within doors, lack of exercise, 
the habit or necessity of avoiding sun- 
light and daylight. A pasty skin is 
the result of a lymphatic temperament. 
An olive skin does not always indicate 
disease ; it may have been inherited 
from some creole ancestor. A too 
white skin, without proper admixture 
of color, shows a person in serious ill 
health, although sometimes there are 
no other indications. A purplish com- 
plexion may come from some affection 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 85 

of the heart. A yellow skin requires 
especial attention. It is plain that 
care and precaution should be taken 
when the complexion is defective. 

Hygiene is in many qases sufficient, 
and we will try to trace the prominent 
outlines of this preventive treatment, 
at least so far as women are concerned. 

A thin woman may enjoy good 
health but never has a fine complex- 
ion, according to the proverb " there 
is no fine skin on bones." Later on 
we will show how to gain flesh, and 
explain how necessary it is to repress 
impatience and irritation, which dry up 
the blood more surely than illness or 
even grief. Intense artificial heat is 
also very destructive to the skin. 

Cold is unfavorable to brunettes, 
warm air to blondes. Wind makes 
the face bluish or pale. Avoid walk- 



86 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 

ing against the wind. The abuse of 
the habit of kissing is injurious to the 
complexion. There are many parents 
who object to their children being 
kissed frequently, because it injures the 
skin of the child. 

Later we will give the proper diet 
for a good skin and its preserva- 
tion. 

Wrinkles. 

Wrinkles are often the result of bad 
habits, such as a repeated drawing of 
the eyebrows which forms small lines 
between the brows. Lifting the eye- 
brows uselessly results in long trans- 
verse lines on the forehead, and adds 
at least five years to the real age. An 
artificial, stereotyped smile imprints 
two heavy furrows from the nose to 
the corners of the mouth. Novel 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 87 

reading far into the night often results 
in the crows-feet which disfigure many 
pretty faces. 

Those who laugh much have little 
lines at the base of the cheeks near 
the mouth, but these are not objec- 
tionable. It is only necessary to take 
note of those that are produced by 
causes which may be easily overcome. 
Gayety is a virtue which should not be 
suppressed. Suffering traces wrinkles 
on worn faces, but they disappear on 
the return of health. 

To retard the appearance of wrinkles 
and lessen the fullness around the chin, 
wash and dry the face from the top 
downward ; to avoid crows-feet, wash 
the eyes from the temples toward the 
nose. It is a mistake to fill up the 
hollows between wrinkles with rice 



S5 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

powder. It only serves to bring them 
out in relief.* 

Some rich women, whose complex- 
ions have been injured by overheated 
houses, spray their faces with fresh 
w r ater fifteen minutes before going to 
bed. This effaces wrinkles and moist- 
ens the skin. Vases filled with water 
will evaporate in air and neutralize the 
painful effects of a dry, burning heat. 
Wet cloths, frequently applied, pro- 
duce still better results. 

The fear of wrinkles induces many 
women to submit to painful processes 
in the hope of driving away these pre- 
cursors of old age. 

This is the method employed by a 
society woman for effacing the wrinkles 
which are produced by late hours and 

* By proper treatment, by which I do not mean facial 
massage as it is now generally practiced in New York, 
wrinkles may be not only retarded but removed. — H. H. A. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 89 

dissipation. If she is annoyed she 
goes to her bed and remains until her 
fatigue has passed away or her vexa- 
tion has vanished and her good humor 
is restored. She arises refreshed, beau- 
tiful, and amiable, her face devoid of 
wrinkles. She declares that if all 
women will follow her advice in similar 
circumstances, they will prolong their 
youth, calm their nerves, and acquire a 
desirable evenness of temper. A debu- 
tante, who was as fresh at the close of 
the season as at the beginning, kept 
her beauty by remaining in bed all day 
Sunday. When summer came she was 
the only one of the family who did not 
seem to require a change of air. 

Lady Londonderry, an English 
beauty, retains her youthful charms, 
which defv the ravages of time, at the 
cost of infinite pains. Every tenth 



90 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 

day she spends in bed sleeping until 
she awakens naturally, then takes a 
warm bath, returns to her bed, where 
a light breakfast is served, tries to 
sleep again, and if she does not suc- 
ceed remains quietly there doing noth- 
ing, almost without thinking, in her 
darkened room. At six in the evening 
she arises, dines in her dressing room, 
and remains near the fire inactive until 
ten o'clock, when she returns to her 
bed. This programme she never alters, 
and I must confess that it agrees with 
her marvelously. Occasionally her 
maid reads to her a light, unexciting 
romance. 

If happiness depended upon worldly 
success and the preservation of physi- 
cal beauty, this method would doubt- 
less be more reasonable than a resort 
to artificial aids to repair the traces of 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 91 

years. But think of the selfishness of 
a wife or mother who thus neglects 
her most sacred duties. 

Surely there can be no harm in tak- 
ing care of nature's gifts. It is proper 
to preserve the hair and keep it beau- 
tiful, to keep the teeth white and even, 
the complexion fresh and pure, etc., etc. 
But there is a limit to everything. A 
certain amount of coquetry should be 
encouraged, but when it goes beyond 
reasonable bounds, and causes neglect 
of the duties of life, it is unpardonable. 
Old a^e will come, and our children 
prefer a tender, serious, and devoted 
mother, with a slightly tired face, to 
a frivolous and an indifferent one, 
though she be still beautiful. 

If a woman has no children, and life 
is devoid of the boundless joys of ma- 
ternity, she would do better to spend 



92 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

her time in cultivating her mind. 
Once more I urge all women to believe 
that the moral nature is as worthy of 
attention as the physical. It is better 
to have an added wrinkle with each 
new virtue, than a smooth brow and 
the faults of a child. 

However, if it is a possible thing, I 
would advise perfect repose of the face 
for a moment five or six times each 
day. The eyes should be closed, the 
muscles relaxed, and the face kept per- 
fectly placid. These little halts in the 
occupations and anxieties of life retard 
greatly the traces which time imprints 
upon our faces. 

Sunburn. 

When from exposure to the hot sun 
or wind your fair skin has been sun- 
burned, my dear friend, you are justly 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 93 

distressed. However, it is an easy mat- 
ter to restore to your complexion the 
dazzling fairness of which you were 
rightly proud. 

Bathe your face at night with an 
infusion (cold) of fresh cucumbers 
sliced in milk. A decoction of tansy 
in buttermilk is still more efficacious. 
Buttermilk alone is excellent. 

Another means of overcoming the 
effects of sea or wind is to wash the 
face with the juice of green grapes 
prepared in the following manner : 
Wet the grapes and powder lightly 
with alum ; wrap in a white paper 
and cook under hot ashes. When 
the grapes become tender they are 
sufficiently cooked. Remove them 
from their covering and squeeze into 
a cup. Wash your face in the liq- 
uid three times within twenty-four 



94 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

hours. This remedy is said to be 
infallible. 

Many persons believe that the com- 
plexion grows dark if the face is 
washed at midday. " Midday, god of 
the summer, shining over the plain," 
should be feared by all delicate com- 
plexions. 

If, as a foreign physician maintains, 
the electric light tans the skin as 
effectually as though the face had 
been exposed to sunlight, the moon 
might have the same effect. After all, 
it is said that she "eats into stone," 
why not into the skin ? The Mare- 
chale d'Aumont, "as beautiful in her 
old age as in her youth," lived in 
mortal dread of the evening dew and 
the moon. 

Let us return to the evil effects of 
the sun. The Italians resort to a very 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 95 

simple method when they wish to 
obliterate the injurious effects of salt 
air and sunshine after a visit to their 
villas, the shores of the Adriatic, the 
Tyrrhenian Sea, or the lakes. They 
bathe the face with the white of an 
e gg"' we ^ beaten, let it dry on the skin, 
and rinse it off in soft water after 
fifteen minutes. The treatment is re- 
peated three or four times, and always 
at night, just before retiring. This 
last prescription, and that of drying the 
face on a soft towel, are very import- 
ant. The reasons were given under 
the head of "baths." 

Lastly, good results may be obtained 
from the use of a mixture of lemon 
juice and glycerine, equal parts. If 
the skin will not stand glycerine — of 
which we will speak later on — use rose 
water instead, 



96 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Freckles. 

Freckles are the despair of blondes, 
and even of brunettes with fair skins. 
Some physicians attribute freckles to 
too much iron in the blood. It has 
been proven that the abuse of iron 
tonics is often the cause of these yel- 
low spots which disfigure more than 
one fair countenance. 

Others say that freckles indicate a 
delicate constitution and feeble circu- 
lation. 

By a few very simple precautions 
freckles may sometimes be prevented. 

One of my friends used the fol- 
lowing mixture with success : One 
part of tincture of iodine to three 
parts of glycerine, applied to the 
freckles before going to bed. 

Another remedy is the following : 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 97 

one-half pint of oil of turpentine ; 
dissolve in it seven grammes of pul- 
verized camphor ; add two grammes 
of oil of sweet almonds. 

The following is another excellent 
remedy : twenty-eight grammes of 
crushed camphor and 112 grammes of 
pure olive oil. Let the camphor dis- 
solve slowly in the oil. 

Applications of buttermilk are also 
excellent. 

In some country, I do not now re- 
member which, an odorous water for 
the complexion is made from the lily by 
heating it in a bain-marie ; * a little salts 
of tartar is dissolved in this liquid. 

The following remedies are also rec- 
ommended : in twenty centigrammes 
of rose water dissolve sixteen centi- 
grammes of borax. 

* The Puritan Cooker is the best.— H. H. A. 



9^ MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Fresh beans, boiled in water, crushed 
and applied as a poultice on the 
freckles, will produce excellent effects. 

Make a mixture of vinegar, lemon 
juice, alcohol, oil of lavender, oil of 
rose, oil of cedar, and distilled water. 
Apply to the freckles on retiring and 
wash the face in soft water next 
morning. 

Two parts of sugar of water cress 
to one of honey is highly recom- 
mended for removing both large and 
small freckles. Strain through a cloth 
and apply morning and night. 

Our ancestors, who were very careful 
of their complexions, wore in winter 
black velvet masks to ouard the face 
from the effects of the cold, and in sum- 
mer replaced them by masks of taffeta, 
to protect their delicate complexions 
from the " darts of Apollo," which bring 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 99 

out these much dreaded spots. If we 
cannot restore the fashion of masks in 
springtime, when the buds begin to 
blossom in the fields and freckles to dis- 
figure the cheeks, we can wear a corn- 
colored veil while walking. It would 
be too tedious to explain on scientific 
grounds how under this yellow veil you 
will be as safe as under the old masks, 
but I can answer for its efficacy. You 
may reply that this color is not be- 
coming. It is perhaps a question 
whether you place more value on the 
admiration of the world in general, or 
the members of your own household. 

When traveling, wash your face only 
at night. Add to the water a few 
drops of the benzoin bath liquid. Vir- 
ginal milk is another name for this 
mixture. Under no circumstances ex- 
pose your face to the fresh air until it 



iOO MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

has been well dried and lightly pow- 
dered. 

Carrots are said to be a specific 
for the complexion, and are strongly 
recommended for freckles. In place of 
cafe an lait> breakfast off a thin porridge 
of carrots and a piece of dry bread. 

Warts, 

It was Montaigne, I believe, who 
said: "I love Paris, even its warts." 
This may be true of a large and superb 
city, but a beautiful or pretty face is 
terribly disfigured by the little hard, 
round tumors, commonly called warts. 
Therefore we give a few simple reme- 
dies which may destroy them without 
any risk. 

No. i. Administer small doses of 
sulphate of magnesia (Epsom salts). 
Dose for an adult from four to six 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. IOI 

grammes daily for a month. In most 
cases the warts will disappear at the 
end of two weeks. 

No. 2. Formerly a plant was pre- 
scribed, called " Benvoire de Venus" 
{Labrum veneris or virga pastoris or 
dipsacus fullonuni), on account of its 
leaves being in the form of a basin. 
The warts were rubbed with a reddish 
juice or water which was found in the 
hollow of the leaves. 

No. 3. Some advise pressing the 
wart against the bone, rubbing it 
back and forth, until the roots become 
irritated and painful, and the wart drops 
off. 

No. 4. Warts and wens are sometimes 
cured by rubbing them two or three 
times daily with an Irish potato. Cut 
off one end of the potato and rub the 
tumor with the pared surface. After 



102 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

each operation remove a slice of the 
potato. 

No. 5. Rub the wart night and 
morning with the following salve: 
twelve centigrammes of chromate of 
potassia well mixed in fifteen grammes 
of soft animal fat or vaseline. The 
warts will usually disappear in the 
course of three or four weeks* treat- 
ment. 

No. 6. Lemon juice will cause some 
warts to disappear. Touch them two 
or three times daily with a camel's- 
hair brush soaked in the juice. 

No. 7. Take a slate and calcine it 
in the fire. Reduce it to powder and 
pour strong vinegar on the powder. 
You will thus obtain a liquid with 
which you can rub the excrescences. 
They will often succumb to this treat- 
ment. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 103 

No. 8. The heliotrope of Europe 
(the verrucaria of apothecaries) is 
highly esteemed. Its sugar, mixed 
with salt, causes warts and wens to fall 
off. 

No. 9. Caustic, or nitrate of silver, 
also removes warts.* Touch them 
every two or three days. 

No. 10. Some warts may be re- 
moved by soaking them several times 
each day in castor oil. 

No. 11. Melt some essence of salt 
in water and bathe the warts in it. 
This caustic will dissolve them and 
cause them to peel off. This treat- 
ment requires great caution, especially 
if applied to the face.f 

No. 12. Use also the caustic sugar 
of celandine. 

* This should be applied only by a physician. — H. H. A. 
f I cannot endorse this remedy. — H. H. A. 



164 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

It is a mistake to suppose that 
warts are not sometimes contagious. 

Skin Diseases of the Face. 

One of my friends, who is a physician, 
has successfully treated herpes of the 
face by rubbing on the juice of a lemon. 

Ringworms have been cured by 
bathing in the juice of strawberries. 
It is not easy to imagine a simpler or 
more agreeable remedy. It is cer- 
tainly less repulsive than " rubbing the 
afflicted part with a live snail,". which 
was formerly the custom. Strawberries 
are said to be a sovereign remedy for 
ulcers, and also for ringworms. 

Strawberries used daily during the 
season will remove facial eruptions, 
pimples, etc.* 

* Strawberry Cream is an excellent remedy for slight 
cutaneous eruptions ; but it is not a specific for all such 
evils.— H. H. A. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 105 

For eczema of the face, recourse 
should be had to poultices made of 
potato farina. 

A decoction made of the fresh root 
of star-wort (fifteen grammes to one 
quart of water) is highly recommend- 
ed. Take a pint of the decoction 
before eating, in two or three doses ; 
the other pint at night, at least 
two hours after the last meal. The 
diet must be very strict — no wine, no 
coffee, no game, fish or pork of any 
kind. Strawberries, asparagus, cab- 
bage, turnips, cheese (except Gruyere) 
are forbidden. 

The same diet is prescribed for pim- 
ples. Besides this, use the following 
lotion and salve : Sublimate of sulphur 
thirty grammes ; alcohol, twelve ; dis- 
tilled water, 200. Moisten a sponge 
in the mixture and wash the face. Re- 



106 MY LADY S DRESSING ROOM. 

peat frequently. A medicated hot 
vapor spray is sometimes excellent. 
Salve : three grammes of oxide of zinc to 
thirty grammes of vaseline. Mix thor- 
oughly and use at night. The treat- 
ment should be interrupted twice during 
the week for about twenty-four hours. 
Wash the face in warm water before 
applying the lotion. 

The Duke of Edinburgh, son of the 
Queen of England, is said to use onions 
liberally in his diet for a skin disease.* 

It is needless to say that these 
simple remedies may be used for skin 
diseases affecting other parts of the 
body. 

Depilatories. 

There is another and more desperate 
cause of annoyance among women. 

* The value of the onion in such cases is well known. — ■ 
H. H. A. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 107 

I refer to the growth of hair which so 
often appears on the chin at middle 
age, and to the down which imparts a 
masculine appearance to the rosy lips 
of some young girls of twenty. 

Do not despair. There are, fortu- 
nately, remedies for this affliction. 

First. Removing these hairs with a 
small tweezer of steel is one of the 
common remedies. But the hair must 
be carefully pulled and not broken ; 
it should be removed by a sudden 
jerk. Recently an operation by elec- 
tricity to which the name of electroly- 
sis* is given has been highly recom- 
mended. 

Second. Make a wash of the leaves 
and roots of celandine distilled. 

* Electrolysis is apt to leave scars ; the hairs reappear 
^unless the electric needle strikes the center of each hair 
'follicle. This treatment is frequently unsuccessful and 
always most painful. — H H. A. 



108 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Make a compress, apply to the hairy 
spot, allowing it to remain on all night. 
Continue until the hairs disappear. 

Third. Sulphuret of soda, three 
grammes ; quicklime,' 55, ten grammes; 
starch, ten grammes. Add enough 
water to this mixture to make a paste, 
apply to the down, let it remain on for 
an hour, and then wash it off in soft 
water. 

Fourth. Use polypode of oak; slit 
and cut into pieces, place in a cucurbite 
(vessel resembling a gourd used in dis- 
tillation) and pour over it some white 
wine, which should cover the polypode 
a finger's width. Let it stand for 
twenty-four hours. Then distill in 
boiling water until no more evaporates. 
Apply in compresses on the afflicted 

* This is a most dangerous ingredient. I cannot recom- 
mend its use excepting under a physician's advice. — H. 
H. A. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 109 

parts, keeping it on all night. Renew 
until the desired effect is obtained. 

If it be true, as asserted, that lentils 
have the property of promoting the 
growth of hair, both in length and 
thickness, of producing mustaches, and 
of making beards heavier, women who 
have a tendency to hair on the lips 
and chin should rigorously abstain 
from indulging in this vegetable.* 

Washes and Cosmetics for the Face. 

Never use any kind of paint. All 
rouges injure the skin. Blanc de perle 
is dangerous. 

It is said that the Chinese have dis- 
covered a harmless paint, made of 
beet juice, with which they color their 
cheeks. 

* Some of the best and safest depilatories are made from 
formulae which are secret and private property. They 
cannot therefore be given here.— H. H. A. 



no MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

I give the recipes of a few excellent 
washes, because I am certain they 
are hamless, and some of them are 
very refreshing to the skin. We 
will begin with the most simple. 

Greasy skins are benefited by wash- 
ing in wine (the wines of France and 
the Rhine) ; use about every fifteenth 
day. If the complexion is dark, red 
wine is preferable. The juice of fresh 
cucumbers is still better for the skin. 
Equally good is the water in which 
spinach flowers have been boiled. 
The juice of strawberries, of which we 
have already spoken, is superior. J 

During the sixteenth century the 
water in which beans had been boiled 
was in vogue for the complexion. 
This farinaceous water is entitled to 
the fame which it possessed. Our 
Gaulish ancestors, whose glowing 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM., Ill 

color was a subject of envy to the pa- 
trician Romans, washed their faces in 
the foam of beer. They also used 
chalk dissolved in vinegar. I scarcely 
know what to think of this solution, 
but I can assert that the foam of beer 
is still used with good results among 
the women of the North. 

Belladonna (beautiful lady) derives 
its name from the use which the Ital- 
ians of the Renaissance made of its 
juice to improve their complexions. 
" The Roman dames of antiquity, 
those great coquettes," says someone, 
I have forgotten whom, u esteem the 
hare's blood as the most precious 
cosmetic.' 1 This is certainly repulsive. 

The following lotion is excellent: 
A wineglassful of lemon juice, a pint 
of rain water, five drops of essence of 
rose, well corked. Wash the face 



112 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

occasionally with this mixture, which 
often prevents the discoloration of the 
skin. 

Soft and relaxed skins will be im- 
proved by the use of the following 
cosmetic (at intervals of eight days) : 
one part milk, one part whisky. 
Moisten a soft towel with the mixture, 
after having first washed the face. 
The results do not follow immediately, 
but within a year the skin will fre- 
quently contract, become firm, fine, 
and soft. 

If you need emollients for a dry 
skin, put some fragrant oil into a jar 
of vaseline.* 

The oil of cocoa enriches dry skins. 

The Princess of Wales is said to use 
a mixture made of half a pint of milk 
and the juice from a slice of a Portu- 

* It will, however, produce superfluous hair. — H. H. A. 



MY LADY'S D&E5SIXG ROOM. H3 

guese lemon, which she applies on 
retiring, washing her face in soft, 
warm water next morning. As a 
matter of fact, she uses Recamier 
cream. 

Lastly, here are veritable cosmetics : 
Toward the end of May take a 
pound of the very freshest, purest 
butter. Place it in a white basin, and 
expose it to the sun, where it will be 
well protected from dust, etc. When 
the butter has melted, pour over it 
some plantain water, mix well by 
means of a wooden spatula, and let the 
sun absorb the water. Pour in more 
plantain water and repeat five or six 
times during the day. Continue until 
the butter has become as white as 
snow. The last few days add a little 
orange flower and rose water. Cover 
the face at night with this salve, and 



114 MY LADY'S DRESSING MOM. 

carefully wipe off in the morning. 
This is a good and old recipe of the 
time of the beautiful Gabrielle. 

Here is one that dates from the time 
of the Crusades : Take out the yolks 
of six hard boiled eggs, and replace by 
myrrh and powdered candied sugar in 
equal parts. Put the ends from which 
the yolk has been taken together 
again, then place the six eggs on a 
plate before the fire. Mix the result- 
ing liquor with thirty-two grammes of 
fat pork. This mixture forms a po- 
matum, with which the face is cov- 
ered in the morning. Let it dry and 
then wipe it off carefully. This se- 
cret of beauty was, it is said, brought 
from Palestine by a brave knight 
beloved by the sultana. His lady- 
love probably heard of his infidel- 
ity, but she doubtless forgave it on 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 11$ 

account of the cosmetic which he 
brought back from the harem. 

Cosmetics for the Hands, Arms, etc. 

The above recipes may be used for 
the neck, arms and hands. Here is 
still another to be used at night when 
the arms and shoulders are uncovered : 

Glycerine, rose water, oxide of zinc. 
This preparation has the advantage of 
not whitening the coats of partners 
in a dance. 

The Use of Rice Powder. 

It is sometimes necessary to pow- 
der the face, and we have stated un- 
der what circumstances. But powder 
should be applied lightly and artisti- 
cally in order to impart to the skin the 
velvety softness of the peach. 

A face powdered like a clown's is 



no MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

ridiculous, and as unbecoming as 
vulgar. Powder on the face should be 
imperceptible, and if used with dis- 
cretion is not to be condemned. 

Take up but a small quantity of 
powder on the puff, and pass lightly 
over the face. Care should be taken 
not to powder the eyebrows, and the 
lips must be carefully wiped to remove 
any powder which may have fallen. 
The whole face, except the eyes, the 
eye-brows, and lips, should receive 
a touch of powder. 



HAIR. 

DARK AND LIGHT. 

Her fair soft hair 
That like a golden shower about her fell. 

Who has not envied the " kingly 
mantle" sung by de Musset? 

Truly, it is a magnificent decoration 
which nature has bestowed on a chosen 
few. We should know how to pre- 
serve it, no matter how poor may be 
our own. 

The hair, to be truly beautiful, should 
be thick, long, fine, and lustrous. If 
your hair is thin, short, coarse, dull, do 
not despair of being able by intelligent 
effort to improve it. 

All the qualities which we have 
enumerated are insufficient to some 



n8 MV LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

women if their beautiful hair is as black 
as the raven's wing. They prefer to 
be blonde, like almost all the charming 
or bewitching women whose names 
have been preserved in history. Eve, 
it is said, was as blonde as honey ; the 
hair of Venus rippled on her divine 
shoulders in golden floods ; the hair of 
Ceres was corn color. The queenly 
brow of beautiful Helen, whom the 
Trojans so adored, was crowned with 
hair as yellow as wheat. Salome, 
who asked for and obtained the head 
of St. John the Baptist, had yellow 
hair. At least the old masters painted 
her as they did every patrician maiden, 
as a blonde. Lucretia Borgia, Lady 
Macbeth, Mary Tudor, Bloody Mary, 
were all blondes. Queen Elizabeth 
had red hair. Catherine and Marie 
de Medici were also blondes, 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 119 

Cousin describes the hair of the 
Duchess de Longueville, whom he 
worshiped, in the following manner : 
" The finest of ashen blond hair fall- 
ing in rich curls around the pure oval 
face, and spreading over the perfect 
shoulders." Anne of Austria, Madame 
de Sevigne, whose coiffure is still ad- 
mired, the gentle La Valliere, were all 
blondes. The golden hair of Marie 
Antoinette and Mme. de Lamballe 
would alone have sufficed to make 
them beautiful. 

Mme. Emile de Girardin had also 
beautiful light hair. One of the 
charms of the Empress Eugenie was 
her hair, which was golden red. 

I admit that I have a preference for 
light hair, especially when golden or 
reddish. The Greeks, in the time of 
Pericles, washed their hair in lye water 



120 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

in order to bleach it, and afterward 
applied an oil made from the fat of 
goats, ashes of the beech tree, and 
certain yellow flowers, The hair was 
allowed to float on the shoulders until 
dry. The Germans were proud of their 
light hair. Those who did not have it 
by nature had recourse to art. Bath- 
ing the hair in beer was considered 
efficacious. So was a plaster of lime. 
The Roman ladies hated their dark 
hair, and Ovid tells us that they wore 
blonde wigs, for which high prices were 
paid in Germany. It is well known to 
what suffering the Venetians sub- 
mitted in order to produce in the hair 
those bright bronze tints which are 
called by Titian's name. 

In our day many women scien- 
tifically dye their hair a mahogany 
color. This is hideous. Others, who 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 121 

are already blonde, make their hair 
still lighter by the use of oxygenated 
water. The English wash their hair in 
rum, into which they put an infusion of 
bitter apples (colocynthis), to prevent 
the hair from growing darker with 
age. 

It seems that in other days (those 
blessed other days !) there were many 
more blondes than in our time. Would 
you know why even in the North, the 
hair has a tendency to grow darker from 
one century to another? "Heaven," 
said a humorist, "sent upon the earth 
many women with golden hair, that 
they might charm the other half of 
humanity. Seeing this, the devil, who 
hates men, sent cooks. These, with 
their sauces and ragouts, disordered 
the human liver and produced the 
desired result — dark skin and hair," 



122 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 

Under this jest there may lurk a 
truth. 

Arabian women and the feminine 
subjects of the Shah prefer dark hair. 
But they often tint their beautiful 
black hair with henna. The leaves 
of% this plant, reduced to powder in 
water, make a cosmetic which is care- 
fully rubbed into the hair. This paste 
is removed by washing the hair in 
indigo water a few hours afterward. 
It retains from this application a 
bright reddish color for several 
days. 

The Russians admire chestnut 
colored hair above all other, and 
maintain that Christ had hair of this 
color. Auburn hair is much admired 
in England. It suits well the fresh 
faces of the daughters of Albion, 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 123 

Hair Dressing. 

After all, despite my own preference 
for blondes, I would advise no one to 
change the color of the hair, though it 
be as black as Erebus. Nature gives 
each face the framework most suitable 
to it. She never needs correction on 
that point. 

Great care should be taken to dress 
the hair becomingly. It is curious to 
see how many women in arranging 
their hair disregard its color and text- 
ure. It is as useless to persist in 
crimping straight hair as to smooth 
or plaster down curly or waving hair, 
though it is admitted that certain types 
require the aureole which accompanies 
fluffy hair. Black hair is not improved 
by crimping ; it requires bandeaux, 
long and lustrous curls, heavy tresses, 



124 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Auburn hair may be crimped, made 
fluffy, not plastered together, and its 
tints subdued. Heavy braids of chest- 
nut hair are very handsome. Blonde 
hair admits of any style of dressing, 
and is alike charming in bandeaux or 
in a nimbus around the brow. Why 
not dress the hair to suit the face, no 
matter what is the prevailing fashion ? 
Hair should be allowed to grow 
gray naturally. All dyes made of 
mercury or lead are dangerous, and 
destroy the beauty and color of the 
hair. Let us gracefully accept the 
snowy locks of age. They harmonize 
with the face which has been changed 
by time and sorrow. Many faces are 
softened and beautified by white hair. 
It is more graceful and dignified not 
to attempt to repair the ravages of 
time, 



MY LADY'S DRESSIXG ROOM. 125 

I am opposed to powdering even 
gray hair, as it makes the features ap- 
pear hard. The delicate faces of the 
eighteenth century would have been 
still more charming if the Marechal de 
Richelieu had not conceived the idea 
of hiding his first silvery hairs under 
powder. Besides, as there is nothing 
new under the sun, the conqueror of 
Port Mahon has not even the merit of 
having discovered the use of hair 
powder. The ancient Greeks, who 
sometimes bleached their hair, were 
also accustomed to powder it a pale 
blue, the changeable colors of the 
dove's neck, or of honey from Hymet- 
tus. 

Hair which is too tightly drawn or 
twisted and plastered is not becoming. 
It has the appearance of an effort to 
get rid of it, instead of embellishing it, 



126 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 

The effect of this is certainly disas- 
trous. The hair should be dressed 
with freedom, which also conduces to 
its healthfulness. 

Long and thickly crimped bangs are 
vulgar. A few short, light rings, 
above the brow, greatly soften the 
face. Hair dressed high on the head 
is not becoming to women past a cer- 
tain age. Hair dressed low at the 
back of the neck is very graceful and 
youthful. Dress the hair according to 
the cast of features. A small, thin 
woman appears ridiculous with her 
head enlarged by the arrangement of 
the hair. If the forehead is high, full, 
the features large, the face is most un- 
becoming with hair dressed a la Chi- 
noise. Parting the hair on the side pro- 
duces a youthful effect, but is apt to 
make the most delicate face appear 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 127 

masculine. Avoid eccentric hair dress- 
ing : never increase the size of the 
head by a mass of false hair. The 
head has a greater refinement and dis- 
tinction, if its shape is left unchanged 
and in harmony with the body which 
it crowns. 

Aged women are greatly improved 
by covering the hair (even while it is 
still beautiful) with a bit of lace, which 
falls in graceful folds about the face. 
Light shadows of lace go far toward 
concealing the ravages of time. 

Care of the Hair. 

The fashion of crimping the hair 
with hot irons, etc., is destructive to 
its beauty. What shall we do with 
our bangs, which have grown coarse 
by frequent cutting, w r hen fashion de- 
crees an opposing mode ? 



128 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Many women to save their hair wear 
false fronts, a custom not without 
danger. Frequently false hair, though 
apparently clean, is a cause of conta- 
gion. Hair cut from the heads of the 
Chinese often spreads disease. For- 
tunately this hair is easily recognized, 
as it is always coarse, rough, black, 
and glossy. 

False hair should be frequently re- 
newed. Taken from a living head, it 
retains its vitality for about two years, 
sometimes even longer. Afterward it 
becomes uneven, stiff, matted, and can 
no longer be used. Hair cut from the 
dead is never used by hairdressers of 
good repute. Use as few pins as pos- 
sible in fastening the hair, in order not 
to irritate the scalp, which may be 
scratched by them. It is well some- 
times to change the style of dressing 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 129 

the hair, as it is apt to grow thin 
when always arranged in the same 
way. 

When the hair is worn parted, be 
careful to make a new part each day in 
order to prevent it from spreading. 
It is advisable to clip the hair in the 
first quarter of each new moon, and at 
the end of a year the hair will have lost 
nothing in length. I cannot believe 
that the silent orb of night has any in- 
fluence on the growth of hair, but there 
may be occult mysterious influences 
which science has not yet explained. 
It is a certain fact that hair clipped at 
each new moon grows thicker. 

It is well to sleep from infancy with 
the head uncovered, as the hair thus 
retains its beauty longer. On retiring 
the hair should be raised high above 
the ears, without pulling, plaited loose- 



*3 6 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

ly in a single braid, and tied with a 
silk or cotton ribbon. Avoid wearing 
starched nightcaps, as the starch is 
injurious to the hair. When old age 
approaches it may be well to wear 
nightcaps. 

Brush the hair well, using a soft 
brush, on going to bed and in the 
morning. The best brushes are made 
with short bristles. If the hair is 
combed from the roots downward 
without being divided in several parts, 
much harm may be done to it. The 
hairs would certainly be broken off, be- 
come uneven, and could never be made 
to look cared for. It is an excellent 
thing to smooth the hair with the 
hand. In Turkey, the slave intrusted 
with the care of the tresses of the 
Sultana, caresses the hair, rolls it in 
her hands until it is supple, brilliant, 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 13* 

and looks like silk. Use grease, oils, 
and pomade as seldom as possible. 

The Roman dames believed that 
walnut rind improved the luxuriance 
of their hair. 

Cleansing of Hair. 

The frequent use of a fine comb 
is fatal to hair, especially when it is 
falling out. However, it is necessary 
to cleanse the hair and the downy 
scalp. 

One of my friends who has beauti- 
ful, soft, waving, lustrous hair, cleanses 
it occasionally with a mineral water. 

The Chinese, who have abundant, 
but coarse hair, use a mixture of 
honey and flour. 

The following is an English recipe : 
A teacupful of salt to a quart of rain 
water. After twelve hours this brine 



*3 2 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

is ready for use. To one cupful of the 
mixture add one cupful of hot rainwa- 
ter. Wash the hair and scalp, rub well, 
rinse, and dry with a towel. 

The Italians cleanse their long and 
abundant hair with a decoction of this- 
tle roots. 

The Creoles of Cuba make a de- 
coctian of the leaves of rosemary. 
This water, they maintain, cleanses, 
strengthens, and softens the hair. 

This also is excellent. Take fifty 
grammes of the roots of soap-wood 
boiled in a pint and a half of water. 
Wash with the hot preparation, then dry 
the hair and scalp with warm cloths. 

The yolk of an egg cleans the head 
thoroughly and causes the hair to grow. 
Only the scalp should be rubbed with 
the yolk, and the head rinsed in hot 
water. The beaten white of eggs is 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 133 

also recommended as a simple and ef- 
ficacious preparation for cleansing the 
hair. Rub the scalp and rinse in hot 
water. 

The following are more complicated 
lotions for those persons who disdain to 
use the simpler ones. 

First, for cleansing the hair and scalp, 
also for headaches, and to prevent the 
falling out of hair : take half a pint of 
pure rectified spirits, dissolve in it half 
a gramme of sulphate of quinine and 
allow it to infuse two days in a hermet- 
ically sealed bottle. After this time 
has elapsed add a pint of old rum and 
fifty grammes of yellow Peruvian bark, 
powdered ; let it stand three days. 
Pour on the liquid ; wash the sediment 
in about two-fifths as much water. 
Mix the two liquids, strain through 
filtering paper. 



134 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Second. The following druggist's 
formula may be easily prepared : Sul- 
phate of quinine, three grammes, dis- 
solved in Rabel water ; opopponax, ten 
grammes ; triturate in enough alcohol, 
96 per cent., to dissolve it ; add es- 
sence of patchouli, three drops, essence 
of violet, five grammes, essence of bou- 
quet, five grammes. Increase to six 
quarts by adding enough alcohol at 
40 per cent. Throw into the liquid 
seventy-five grammes of Florentine 
orris, pulverized. Let it stand eight 
days and then strain. 

The custom of shampooing orig- 
inated in England. Take one quart 
of cold or hot water into which 
is melted thirty grammes of carbonate 
of soda and fifteen grammes of soap, 
cut into small pieces. Add a few 
drops of perfume and thirty grammes 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 135 

of spirits of wine, After washing with 
this preparation, rinse the hair in warm 
water. Afterwards rub the hair and 
scalp until dry, with warm towels. 

The hair should always be thoroughly 
and rapidly dried. After drying, let it 
hang loosely on the shoulders, for an 
hour or two if necessary. 

Hair, especially gray, may be cleansed 
with powder. Afterward it should be 
carefully brushed. This is an excellent 
method, though it is difficult to remove 
the traces of powder from dark hair. 

Diseases of the Hair. 

Dandruff is not only very disagree- 
able, but produces baldness. Before 
resorting to medical treatment for this 
disease, which is sometimes obstinate, 
because it depends on a bad state of 
health, try one of the following simple 



I3 6 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

remedies : First, melt sixty grammes of 
crystallized soda in a quart of water ; 
add thirty grammes of cologne water. 
Moisten the hairbrush in the liquid 
and pass it each day over the affected 
part. Second, a physician recommends 
the application of lemon juice to the 
scalp. Keep the juice as much as pos- 
sible from the hair. Third, take ten 
grammes of Panama wood ; boil in a 
pint of rain water. Wash the affected 
parts with this decoction two or three 
times each week. 

When the hair falls out without ap- 
parent cause, it is diseased. This is 
the case when the ends split. Sorrow T 
causes the hair to fall out. For this 
there is no remedy save time and 
forgetfulness, and happier days. 

xAin animal is known to be unhealthy 
if its hair is not soft and shiny. With 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 137 

all due respect, it is the same with 
men and women. If this be the case, 
examine into your health and try to 
discover the trouble. A good treat- 
ment for hair under these circum- 
stances is to rub the scalp with soap 
and a mixture of castor oil, sweet al- 
mond, and tannin. 

A young girl of fifteen suddenly 
lost her hair without any perceptible 
cause. She neglected to have it cut 
close to the head as should have been 
done, and the result was that it did 
not grow out again. A physician rec- 
ommended shaving the head and wash- 
ing it three times each week with the 
following preparation : One-half ounce 
of coloquintida in a pint of good 
Jamaica rum. After standing three 
days it was filtered and put into well 
corked bottles. Before applying it the 



13^ MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

hair was vigorously brushed. The 
remedy was most successful, and the 
coloquintida changed the color of the 
hair to a beautiful shade of gold. 

Baldness. 

Baldness is not so serious a matter 
to a man as to a woman, for he has 
the comfort of knowing that he has 
many companions in his misery. 

But a bald woman is really to be 
pitied. It is impossible to accept such 
a misfortune with resignation ; she 
must conceal it by every means in her 
power. 

She is often compelled to resort to 
a wig, or to caps such as are worn by 
dowagers. 

The growing tendency to baldness 
among women has been attributed to 
the use of hot irons for crimping ; to 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 139 

false hair; to overheating the scalp by 
headdresses. My own opinion is that 
baldness is due principally to the use 
of dyes. 

We no longer wait for gray hairs, 
but vary the color of the hair to suit 
our caprices, and quite frequently 
the brunette of to-day may appear to- 
morrow with golden or even red hair. 
Those who have black hair sometimes 
stain it mahogany color. Blondes 
whose hair is growing darker lighten it 
by the use of oxygenated water, which 
removes the color. Many women will 
resort to any means rather than 
allow the hair to grow gray naturally. 
Such practices are much to be con- 
demned. Let us remain as we are, 
content to grow old gracefully. 

It is time to begin to remedy the 
evil, if only for the sake of future gen- 



14° MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

erations. Simple modes of hairdress- 
ing should be revived, without the 
addition of false hair, or the use of 
crimping irons. Care should be taken 
to cover the head with silk and not 
wool ; no velvet should be used in a 
headdress ; and above all dyes should 
be abandoned. The natural color of 
the hair should be preserved, and 
allowed to grow darker or become 
white ; even gray hair should not be 
powdered. In this way the hair will 
remain abundant and vigorous, even 
to an advanced age, and there will be 
enough of it to dress becomingly. 

Is there anyone who would not 
prefer thick bandeaux, even though 
streaked with silver, to a bald head or 
a wig? 

A woman so unfortunate as to be 
bald may invent pretty headdresses of 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 141 

lace to conceal her affliction. Moth- 
ers should teach their daughters how 
to prevent baldness by taking proper 
care of their hair. 

Remedies for Falling Hair. 

The juice of a lemon applied to the 
scalp is said to be a remedy for the 
falling out of dark hair. 

The following recipe has been used 
successfully : Wash the head each 
night, rubbing in carefully the follow- 
ing mixture : one' teaspoonful of salt 
and one gramme and a half of qui- 
nine, added to a pint of brandy ; mix 
well. 

I have seen this remedy prepared 
and know its good results : steep 
three common onions in a quart of 
rum for twenty-four hours ; after this 
remove the onions and apply the liquor 



I4 2 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

to the scalp every second day. The 
slight odor of onions soon disappears. 

The English medical journal, the 
Lancet, recommends the following po- 
matum : tincture of jaborandi, fifteen 
grammes ; lanoline, nine grammes ; gly- 
cerine, sixty grammes. Mix with a 
little soft soap, and apply to the scalp 
every night. 

Good results have been also ob- 
tained by using walnut leaves steeped 
in water. Dip a small sponge into the 
liquid, and moisten' the scalp each 
night. In the morning use the fol- 
lowing prescription : perfumed soft 
animal fat, sixty grammes ; tannin, 
two grammes ; tincture benzoin, six 
grammes. 

A man whose eyes were treated by 
injections of pilocarpine had a new 
growth of hair at the age of sixty. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 143 

After an illness it is unwise to shave 
the head. The hair will not fall out if 
cut at intervals of three weeks. Each 
time a certain quantity must be cut, 
proportionate to the whole length of 
the hair ; the last cutting should be 
about to the lobe of the ear. False 
hair should not be worn, as it some- 
times causes total baldness. From 
the day on which the hair is first 
cut, the head must be rubbed with a 
mixture of equal parts of rum and 
castor oil. 

Hot sage tea is also recommended, 
provided the head is well dried with a 
warm towel. 

Pomades and Hair Oils. 

Some people have such dry hair that 
they are obliged to use pomades to 
prevent it from breaking off. 



144 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

A physician recommends the use 
of rectified oil of vaseline (liquid vase- 
line) perfumed to suit the taste. 

Inferior pomatums cause or hasten 
the loss of hair. Therefore, unless 
you can procure the very best from 
a well-known manufacturer, prepare 
them yourself. 

The grease and the oils which are 
used, to be preserved from growing 
rancid, must go through a suitable 
process. Put in a bain-marie 200 
grammes of fat or marrow, with six 
grammes of powdered benzoin and six 
grammes of pulverized balm of tolu. 
Stir constantly with a wooden spat- 
ula. After two hours of hard boiling, 
strain through a bit of linen. Benzoic 
acid possesses, like vanilla, the quality 
of preventing the fat to which it is 
added from becoming rancid. Vase- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 145 

line does not become rancid. To make 
the pomatum take ninety grammes 
of this prepared grease, sixty grammes 
of marrow, and thirty grammes of 
sweet almond oil. Perfume these sub- 
stances while still slightly liquified 
(not entirely cold or congealed), with 
essence of bergamot, two grammes, 
and essence of violet, four grammes. 

Some persons use water in place of 
pomatum, but nothing could be more 
injurious for the hair. 

Cleansing of Combs and Brushes. 

Nothing is better for cleansing 
brushes than ammonia ; it does not 
soften the bristles, as soap and soda do. 
Put a teaspoonful of ammonia into 
a quart of water, and soak the bristles 
in the solution (keeping the ivory, 
bone, or varnished back out of the 



146 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

water). The brush must then be 
rinsed in fresh water and dried in the 
air, but not in the sun. 

Combs should never be washed. 
They may be cleansed by passing a 
coarse thread or card between the 
teeth. There is also a small brush 
which is used for cleaning combs. 

The greatest cleanliness is necessary 
for all articles used for dressing the 
hair. 

If you use ammonia in your bath, 
avoid wetting the hair except when 
necessary, because ammonia fades the 
hair. 



THE MOUTH. 

THE BREATH. 

" I saw her coral lips to move, 
And with her breath she did perfume the air." 

A sweet breath has an important 
influence on beauty and the preserva- 
tion of the teeth. If it loses its purity, 
one soon becomes an object to be 
avoided. It is evident how impor- 
tant a fresh breath is, and we should 
not neglect proper care in preserving 
it. Sobriety, health, an avoidance of 
those bulbous roots, onion and garlic, 
clean and healthy teeth, — these are the 
general conditions which enable us to 
retain until old age or until death a 
breath as sweet and fresh as that of a 
child. 

-47 



148 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Diseases of the mouth and stomach, 
neglected teeth, tartar, the abuse of 
alcoholic spirits, rich dishes (highly 
spiced) seriously injure the breath. 
When the cause is to be attributed to 
the stomach, to suffering from tooth- 
ache, or a sore mouth, the use of pur- 
gatives, mineral waters, chalk powders, 
magnesia, bi-carbonate of soda is rec- 
ommended. 

Bad teeth should be instantly re- 
moved. If a dentist cannot be reached 
immediately, recourse should be had to 
chewing small pieces of Florentine orris 
root, to prevent the unpleasant breath 
caused by bad teeth. 

The Japanese eat the bark of the 
cubilawan cinnamon to perfume the 
mouth and disguise unpleasant odors. 
The famous little dancers of the 
Kampong at the Paris Exposi- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. H9 

tion were abundantly supplied with 
it. 

The resinous substance which flows 
from the bark of the mastic tree 
hardens the gums and gives a delicious 
odor to the breath. It is the tear of 
the mastic. The Sultanas use it freely. 

The Roman dames, if we may give 
credence to Martial, used toothpicks 
cut from the wood of the mastic tree. 

A mixture of camphor and myrrh (a 
few drops of each in a glass of water) 
is excellent as a wash for the mouth 
and for a gargle, when some little indis- 
position has affected the breath. If 
myrrh alone is used, ten drops will be 
sufficient. 

After eating cutlets a la Soubise, or 
any other dish cooked with onions, take 
a cup of black coffee, which is an anti- 
dote for the repulsive odor imparted 



15° MY LADY'S DRESSING ZOOM. 

by this vegetable to the bronchial 
tubes. Garlic should never be eaten. 
I have been told of a simple remedy, 
much used and not at all disagreeable, 
for the distressing annoyance which we 
are considering : Pulverized charcoal, 
fifty grammes, powdered white sugar, 
fifty grammes, good chocolate, 150 
grammes ; put the chocolate in a bain- 
marie, mix in the sugar and charcoal 
very thoroughly. After cooling on a 
marble slab, cut the preparation into 
small squares ; eat three or four of 
these squares each day. 

The Lips. 

It would be unpardonable to leave 
the subject of the mouth without 
speaking of the lips. 

To be beautiful, as an old poet has 
said, " the lips should be a bright 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 15I 

raspberry color," and the skin fine and 
not chapped. Red lips are inharmo- 
nious with certain temperaments. All 
attempts to make the color more bril- 
liant will only succeed for a moment 
and injure the skin. Therefore do not 
have recourse to rubbing with alcoholic 
mixtures, or to cosmetics ; you will lose 
far more than you gain in the end. If 
the skin of your pale lips is not fissured, 
they may have a certain freshness, a 
satiny appearance, which will give them 
a charm, despite their pale rose color. 
Alcohol, vinegars, and red paint de- 
stroy the delicate skin, which is so 
much appreciated in a kiss. How 
often children say to ladies who kiss 
them : " Your lips prick me," because 
the skin is rough. 

Many women bite their lips just be- 
fore entering a drawing-room. Besides 



152 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

the fact that the color thus produced 
lasts but a moment, frequent biting 
makes the lips tender, and predisposes 
them to chapping. 

If the lips are naturally dry and 
rough, rub them slightly, at night, with 
equal parts of water and glycerine. 

Do not pass the tongue over the 
lips. It is contrary to the law of 
good breeding, and the moisture is 
injurious. 

Fever blisters are most disfiguring. 
If they appear, touch them lightly with 
powdered alum and they will soon be 
cured. 

To preserve pretty lips constant 
simpering should be avoided, also grim- 
acing, and all bad habits of the mouth 
(many persons screw up the mouth and 
push out the lips in speaking). I once 
knew a seamstress who forced her lips 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 153 

out at every stitch she took. It is 
easily understood that unseasonable 
laughter, contortion, any habit, deforms 
the mouth and gives the appearance of 
old age ; but on the other hand, many 
a dowager remains pretty because she 
knows how to keep the freshness of her 
lips and the charm of her smile. 

To reduce thick lips, rub them with 

tannin. 

Lip Salve. 

When the lips have been chapped by 
cold or wind, it is easy to cure the tri- 
fling annoyance and banish the tempo- 
rary disfigurement. Here are a few 
formulae for salves which are very good 
in such cases : 

First. Pure wax, twelve grammes ; 
olive oil, sixty-six grammes. Melt the 
wax on a slow fire ; add the oil, mixing 
thoroughly. Perfume with a few drops 



T54 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

of tincture of benzoin. Allow it to 
cool. 

Second. White wax, oil of sweet al- 
monds, essence of rose, and a little 
carmine. 

Third. Sultana Pomatum. White 
wax, two grammes ; spermacetti, two 
grammes ; sweet almond oil, two hun- 
dred grammes ; rose water, twenty 
grammes ; Peruvian balsam, two 
grammes. Melt the wax and sper- 
macetti in the oil, in a double boiler; 
pour into a marble mortar, which has 
been warmed by hot water ; beat 
thoroughly ; add at intervals the rose 
water, then the balsam, stirring con- 
stantly, until the ingredients are mixed 
and the water no longer separates 
from the other substances. 

Fourth. Sweet almond oil, thirty 
grammes ; spermacetti, four grammes ; 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 155 

white wax, twelve grammes ; cocoa 
butter, four grammes ; alkanet, eight 
grammes. Mix the various ingredi- 
ents on a slow fire in a double boiler. 
Strain through muslin. Perfume with 
essence of rose. 

Put these salves into small jars care- 
fully covered or corked. 

The Teeth, Care of the Teeth. 

" Like pearls, and white as driven snow." 

Theophile Gautier speaks some- 
where of a dazzling smile of 
pearls. 

It is true that nothing adds so much 
to the charm of a smile, that nothing is 
so essential to it, as a double row of 
white teeth, which are perfectly healthy 
and are visible behind the lips when 
these are parted in a smile. 

Pretty teeth are the sine qua non of 



156 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

beauty. Good teeth (which is equiva- 
lent to saying beautiful teeth) are in- 
dispensable to health. " No teeth, no 
health/' is an aphorism which is strictly 
true. It was formulated by a surgeon- 
dentist celebrated in France and for- 
eign countries. 

The premature loss of teeth makes 
the face old before its time. I know 
that it is possible to restore to the 
mouth " the furniture which it has 
lost " (as was said during the eigh- 
teenth century), but how annoying is 
this necessity ! 

It is better to carefully preserve the 
gift which Nature has bestowed upon 
us. Let us take care of our teeth, to 
prevent being disfigured by the loss of 
them, to escape from dangerous dis- 
eases, to avoid the terrible sufferings 
imposed by decayed teeth, to preserve 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. T57 

sweetness of breath, which is one of 
the greatest of charms. 

Cleanliness is one of the surest 
means for overcoming the causes which 
lead to the destruction of the teeth. 
They should be carefully brushed night 
and morning ; it is a good practice to 
rinse the mouth after each meal if pos- 
sible ; the particles of food which lodge 
between the teeth decompose and 
cause, sooner or later, the abominable 
tartar which is so fatal to teeth. 

Some persons use cold water in 
cleansing the teeth and rinsing the 
mouth. I advise warm water for both 
purposes. One should use an infusion 
of mint or the following mixture : 
Three grammes of borax and nine 
grammes of pure glycerine in a quart 
of warm water. The first and more 
simple wash is the better. 



I5 8 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

The toothbrush should be small, 
almost round, to reach properly every 
corner of the mouth. Later on we will 
mention the dentifrices and powders 
which we know to be harmless. The 
greater number of articles of this kind, 
and some of the most widely advertised, 
only serve to hasten the loss of the 
teeth. Some of them are efficacious, 
and their formulae we will give. 

It is sufficient to brush the teeth 
with soap two or three times each week 
(without interfering with the daily 
cleansing). For this purpose it is well 
to use a very pure soap. I will not 
conceal the fact that this operation is 
not agreeable, but one soon becomes 
accustomed to it, and the conse- 
quences are most delightful. Soap 
contains alkali, and alkalis are 
highly recommended for the teeth. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 159 

They are antiseptic, and where is the 
mouth that does not require antisep- 
tics ? In a word, it removes the de- 
posits on the teeth, which many of the 
most famous powders do not, except 
by destroying the enamel which pro- 
tects them. 

Some persons use salt alone, and 
with good result ; they rub and brush 
the teeth with it, and afterward rinse 
with warm water. Their teeth are 
very white, and the gums hard and red. 
However, I am afraid this treatment 
would not suit everyone, whereas soap 
may be used without fear, whatever 
the teeth or constitution may be. 

Teeth should not be brushed too 
long at a time. Doing this injures the 
gums, and it is in this way that the 
teeth are loosened. The upper teeth 
should be brushed from above down- 



160 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 

wards (from the gums toward the 
edges), the lower teeth, from below up- 
wards. The inside of the teeth should 
be as carefully brushed as the outside. 

The gums must be well cared for, 
for when they are healthy, there is a 
better chance that the teeth will be 
healthy also. 

When they are soft, the following 
powder will harden them : Peruvian 
bark, fifteen grammes ; powdered ratan- 
hia, six grammes ; chlorate of potassia, 
five grammes. These powders should 
be well mixed so as to form but one, 
with which the gums should be rubbed 
three or four times daily. 

The gums must be gradually accus- 
tomed to vigorous friction. When soft, 
gums bleed easily. They are strength- 
ened by frequently chewing cress or 
cochlearia, or by washing them in an in- 



MY LADY'S DRE SSIXG R OM. 1 6 1 

fusion of gentian or blackberry leaves, 
into which are put a few drops of the 
tincture of Peruvian bark, or cologne. 

Lemon juice also has excellent effects 
on orums which are soft, or even where 
there is ulceration. Dip a little soft 
brush in the juice, and carefully pass 
over the sore places without touching 
the teeth. Painting the gums with a 
tincture of ratanhia and the tincture of 
pyrethrum in equal parts is often rec- 
ommended. Apply at night. 

The gums may be touched daily 
with the following mixture : Tincture 
of cochlearia, fifty grammes ; hydrate 
of chloral, five grammes. This heroic 
treatment should be taken only under 
the advice of a physician. 

A decoction of myrrh, tannin, and 
oak bark is an excellent astringent for 
tender or bleeding orums. 



102 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

There are foods which injure the 
teeth — sugar, sweets, pastry, etc. It 
is said that radishes and dates are 
injurious to them, because they are 
acids. The abuse of acids destroys the 
enamel of the teeth. Figs, like sugar, 
relax and soften the gums ; oils, natural 
fats, or grease do them no good. 

Be careful not to drink anything 
very cold immediately after swallow- 
ing soup. The teeth will suffer from 
the violent change of temperature. 
Breathe through the nose, especially 
in the winter (a good habit also during 
summer on account of the lungs). 
In winter, if the breath is taken 
through the mouth, the teeth are 
exposed to a much lower temperature 
than that of the body. This produces 
inflammation of the periosteum and the 
pulp of the teeth, congestion of the 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 163 

mucous membrane, and the secretion 
of an acid which causes sloughing. It 
is not necessary to go into a dental 
disquisition. All reasonable people 
understand that it is injurious to the 
teeth to breathe through the mouth, 
or to sleep with the mouth open, which 
is often the result of sleeping on the 
back. 

Never touch the teeth with pins, or 
with any metallic instrument. 

" When eating," said an old author, 
"eat on both sides, that one may give 
the other a rest." 

Toothache. 

When suffering from toothache, 
beware of using the poisonous remedies 
which are recommended. Creosote, 
cloves, essence of cinnamon, etc., etc., 
will perhaps soothe the pain, but will 



164 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

destroy the teeth. Fly to the dentist, 
and if obliged to wait, use only such 
remedies as are beyond suspicion. For 
example : pound some parsley and salt 
together, make a little ball of it and 
place it in the ear on the side of the 
aching tooth. Or moisten the cheek on 
the affected side with lemon juice. Or 
place a hot flannel on the cheek. 

Dieting also calms aching teeth, and 
so do warm baths. When the teeth 
have been set on edge by an acid, 
seltzer water will relieve the sensation. 
One of my friends is frequently relieved 
of violent toothache by following a 
doctor's prescription, which is to place 
at the angle of the lower jaw, on the 
spot where the artery is felt, a poultice 
composed of flour, the white of an egg f 
brandy, and mastic. 

Toothache may be produced by 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 165 

the acidity of the saliva, which causes 
inflammation and irritation of the teeth. 

A strong solution of bicarbonate of 
soda is the best remedy for this kind of 
toothache. Rinse the mouth well with 
the solution, and apply a little bicar- 
bonate of soda to the teeth and gums 
with a brush. When suffering, try this 
remedy, and if relief is obtained, it is 
certain that the cause of the toothache 
has been discovered. Thenceforth, 
use bicarbonate of soda in brushing 
the teeth. 

Several persons have assured me 
that they have cured caries of the 
teeth by the following prescription : 
Fill the hollow tooth with powdered 
alum, and the pain disappears as fast 
as the alum melts in the tooth. Renew 
the operation as often as the pain 
returns, until it is entirely relieved, 



166 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

and the caries removed. Caries is 
due to the destructive action of bits 
of food detained in hollow teeth. It 
is well known that alum is an anti- 
septic. 

However, when it is within the 
bounds of possibility, resort to a good 
dentist. 

Filling the teeth in time, either with 
amalgam or gold, may preserve them 
indefinitely and prevent intolerable 
pain. Any negligence is inexcusable. 

Powders, Dentifrices, and Elixirs. 

If one is determined to use pow- 
ders and dentifrices, at least be care- 
ful in the selection made. Unless 
purchased from a well-known manu- 
facturer, I would advise that they be 
made at home, to insure that no 
cream of tartar, or calcareous salts (sub- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 167 

stances which are fatal to the enamel 
of the teeth and injurious to the purity 
of the breath) should enter into the 
composition. 

The following are a few recipes, the 
excellence of which I can guarantee, 
and which are easily prepared. They 
are from prescriptions made by physi- 
cians and pharmacists : 

First. Carbonate of lime, 200 
grammes ; powder of Armenian bole, 
200 grammes ; powder of magnesia, 50 
grammes; powder of pyrethrum root, 
25 grammes ; powder of cloves, 25 
grammes ; powder of bicarbonate of 
soda, 20 grammes ; essence of Eng- 
lish mint, 5 grammes. Mix care- 
fully. 

Second. Powdered Peruvian bark, 
10 grammes; tannin, 10 grammes; 
charcoal, 10 grammes. Pulverize in 



1 68 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

a mortar. Preserve in a porcelain or 
wooden box. 

Third. Precipitated chalk, sixty 
grammes ; orris powder, 30 grammes ; 
pulverized myrrh, 1 gramme, 50 centi- 
grammes. Mix and add : Solution of 
cocaine, .08 centigramme ; oil of 
eucalyptus, 12 drops; triturate to- 
gether, mix, sift. This powder is very 
good for diseased teeth and spongy 
gums. 

A druggist's elixir : Green aniseed, 
25 grammes; cloves, 10 grammes; 
cinnamon, 10 grammes; Peruvian bark, 
10 grammes ; pyrethrum root, 10 
grammes ; cochineal, 4 grammes ; es- 
sence of English mint, 6 grammes ; 
rectified spr. alcohol, 90 per cent, 1 
quart. Let these ingredients remain 
in the alcohol for a month, and then 
strain through filtering paper. 



MY LADY'S DRESSIXG ROOM. 169 

The following is a prescription rec- 
ommended by a good dentist, who pre- 
fers it to Eau Botot. 

Thymol, 20 centigrammes ; benzoic 
acid, 2 grammes, 50 centigrammes ; 
tincture of eucalyptus, 3 grammes ; 
water, 350 grammes. Shake the 
bottle. The mouth should be well 
rinsed with this water on retiring. 

It is during- the night that the mouth 
and teeth are in most danger from 
fermentation and decay, which pro- 
ceed more rapidly during slumber. 
Thanks to this wash, decaying teeth 
are relieved of the contents of their 
cavities, and are no longer a source of 
disease and pain. The active cause 
is eliminated and made inoffensive. 

For summer use, the most delicious 
and the best dentifrice is the straw- 
berry. It cleans the teeth thoroughly. 



17° MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

It should be crushed on the brush ; the 
teeth then rubbed and rinsed in warm 
water. 

An infusion made of the petals of 
the pink makes a perfect elixir during 
the summer time. The pink is an 
antiseptic. 

I would advise that a small crust of 
bread be eaten after each repast. 

Tartar. 

Despite washings and dentifrices, 
tartar is deposited on the cleanest 
teeth, with few exceptions. Gouty and 
rheumatic persons will perceive the 
formation of tartar on their teeth in 
certain quantities, despite all care. 

For other constitutions an energetic 
brushing will always prevent the ap- 
pearance of tartar, check its growth, 
and sometimes destroy it. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 17 1 

Alum is recommended for tartar. 
Take a slight quantity on a moistened 
brush and rub the teeth every morning 
with it for two or three days successive- 
ly. Rinse the mouth with honey water, 
to correct the astringency of the alum. 

It is often necessary to have re- 
course to more severe measures to de- 
stroy the evil. Dr. Magitot, whose 
name is famous among practitioners 
of the dental art, does not hesitate to 
use instruments to remove hard tartar. 
Once the patient is in his hands he 
never releases him until he has entirely 
removed the stony concretion which 
has formed on the teeth. 

The mouth may be full of blood. 
You would like to check the operator, 
but he never stops until you are re- 
lieved from this first cause of the de- 
struction of the teeth. 



172 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 

The subsequent treatment is very 
simple. It is only necessary to let 
pastilles of chlorate of potassia melt in 
the mouth, but they must be pastilles 
which will leave no bad effects, such 
as are not uncommon. 

As for the dark deposit on the teeth, 
it is perhaps dangerous to remove it 
by the aid of hydrochloric acid. 
Many conscientious dentists refuse to 
do this. Salt may be used to pre- 
vent this unpleasant vegetation which 
affects human teeth, if the infliction be- 
comes too great to be endured. 

If the mouth is filled with salt water 
after the extraction of a tooth, hemor- 
rhage need not be feared. 

Children s Teeth. 

As soon as the teeth of an infant ap- 
pear, care should be given them. This 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 1 73 

is a painful time for the little ones, and 
also for the mothers, who fear results 
which are sometimes fatal. 

The pain attending the appearance 
of the first little baby teeth may be miti- 
gated by rubbing the gums with Nar- 
bonne honey. It relieves and softens 
the gums (and at the same time being 
absorbed by the stomach is soothing to 
the bowels), and the teeth appear with- 
out that pain which often results in 
convulsions and death. A crust of 
bread, the root of marshmallow, a 
rubber ring, are all useful to promote 
dentition. The importance of paying 
attention to the teeth of children is 
plain to everyone. There is a double 
object, to prevent horrible suffering 
in the present, which they are too 
feeble to endure, and to insure them in 
the future healthy and beautiful teeth. 



174 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

When the second teeth are cut, 
there are often injurious influences to 
be combated. There are more or less 
chances for the formation of caries, or 
tartar ; care must be taken and coun- 
sel sought ; and every effort made to 
prevent the aggravation of the evil. 

A good mother will also see to it 
that the teeth are regular. Dentists, 
by giving attention in time, can 
prevent all deformities which may 
appear. 



THE VOICE. 

THE ORGAN. 

"Like softest music to attending ears."' 

A sweet voice is a powerful femi- 
nine charm. One also admires fine 
masculine voices, which are sonorous 
and full. 

We should therefore be careful of 
this organ which Nature has bestowed 
upon us, and improve it if possible. 
Coarse, shrill, and harsh voices may be 
softened by care and study. A woman 
with a peacock voice can never charm. 

Speak in a low voice, but distinctly. 
Loud speaking denotes ill breeding, 
and sometimes shows a domineering 
spirit ; many people drown the voices 
of others in a discussion that they may 



I7 6 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

themselves attract the more attention. 
To keep the voice at a proper tone, 
never call from one end of the room to 
another, nor from upstairs down, nor 
at any distance where it becomes 
necessary for one to shout with all 
his might, as this coarsens and roughens 
the voice, and in time ruins it. 

There are persons who, when spoken 
to, pay no attention, either from 
abstraction or from indifference to 
anything which may proceed from 
others. The person who speaks is 
then obliged to raise the voice and re- 
peat, and thus the habit of speaking 
loudly is frequently formed. 

These things occur in families 
where but little politeness is observed 
between those who owe each other as 
much consideration as is due to out- 
siders. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 177 

One should never cry out under the 
influence of anger, indignation, or 
pain. These cries forever destroy the 
harmony of the vocal chords. Child- 
ren should be prevented from scream- 
ing when at play. When they cry 
from temper, throw a few drops of 
water in the face and walk away. 
This will arrest their crying, which is 
often dangerous while they are young 
and frail. A physician thinks he has 
discovered the means of rendering the 
voice very soft. He maintains that 
peroxide of hydrogen will improve 
both the tone and strength of the 
voice. He advises its use by tenors, 
baritones, prime donne, etc., and by or- 
dinary mortals who desire to possess 
musical voices. He bases his opinion 
on the fact that peroxide is one of the 
constituents of the Italian atmosphere 



I7 8 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

and dew, and that to its presence is 
due the beauty, the fullness, of trans- 
Alpine organs. This doctor has in- 
vented a chemical composition to re- 
place the air of Italy. After inhala- 
tion, the voices of those who have ex- 
perimented, it is claimed, become fuller, 
clearer, richer, and softer. 

Trifling Throat Diseases. 

How many voices become hoarse 
and worn as the result of useless 
fatigue imposed on them ! What a 
defect to either man or woman is a 
hoarse, indistinct, disagreeable voice ! 
Very often the misfortune can be pre- 
vented, or at least remedied. 

But there are cases of hoarseness 
which arise from circumstances over 
which we have no control For ex- 
ample, when occasioned by enlarg- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. i79 

ment of the larynx. This organ must 
be contracted in order to prevent the 
emission of those unpleasant hoarse 
sounds which are so painful to delicate 
ears. In such cases lemonade, orange- 
ade, the acidulated water of verjuice 
are excellent where cold drinks are rec- 
ommended. The throat may also be 
gargled with equal parts of water and 
verjuice. If the hoarseness originates 
in a bronchial affection or slight quin- 
sy, a syrup of hedge mustard (Sasy- 
brium officinal} is used as a gargle. 
This plant is also a tonic and a pec- 
toral. 

In all cases of hoarseness it is well 
to speak as little as possible, or in very 
low tones. Water made from pearled 
barley and cassis jelly are said to be 
excellent for this troublesome ailment. 

Nero drank the water from leeks to 



i8o MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

keep his voice in good condition. The 
onion would have the same effect on 
our vocal organs. A pippin baked in 
its skin is highly recommended to ora- 
tors, and, as is well known, many 
singers swallow, or are supposed to 
swallow, the yellow of a raw e:gg be- 
fore breakfast each day in order to 
clear the voice. 

Buttermilk is very refreshing when 
the voice is fatigued. 

Tobacco, alcohol, all violent stimu- 
lants, are injurious to the voice. 
Heating food, spices, and condiments 
should be avoided by those who care 
to preserve the flexibility of their 
voices. 

Remedies for Clearing the Voice. 

The Arabs have a most agreeable 
remedy for the loss of voice. The 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 181 

person afflicted is nourished exclu- 
sively on the pulp of apricots until a 
cure is effected. They are cooked in 
the usual way and dried in the sun- 
shine of the Sahara desert. 

A gargle of salt water is recom- 
mended for a slight irritation of the 
throat and vocal chords. 

Inhaling the vapor arising from hot 
milk, in which ripe figs have been 
boiled, gives sweetness to the voice. 

Fumigations are excellent. Mix a 
little amber and pulverized myrrh, 
throw the powder on a hot shovel, and 
inhale the fumes. 

An infusion of veronica and sugar 
candy is recommended. Take a small 
glass before eating. 



THE EYES. 

LANGUAGE OF THE EYES. 

" For where is any author in the world 
Teaches such beauty as a woman's eye." 

Some eyes are so beautiful that they 
atone for all irregularities of the feat- 
ures, and even physical defects. 

The beauty of the eye lies in its ex- 
pression, whether it has borrowed its 
color from the corn flower, or shines 
like the black diamond, or reflects the 
blue of a May sky, or is veiled under 
long dark eyelashes. 

It should reflect a soul, which is 

strong and great, tender and sweet, 

loyal and true, ardent and loving. The 

inner being should shine through. 

" Such harmony is in immortal souls." 
183 



184 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

When the eye expresses nothing, it 
is because the spirit is asleep, stupefied. 
Lustreless eyes never awaken deep and 
profound sympathy in others ; they 
never conquer hearts or intellects ; 
they have no power. 

The poets have equally praised blue 
eyes and gray, hazel and black, soft 
and lustrous, flashing and brilliant. 
The eye demands certain conditions 
for beauty ; it should be long, almond- 
shaped, and fringed with long lashes. 
It should be well opened, with a direct, 
frank expression, a look which dares 
meet any eye. Not that we condemn 
the timid glance of a young girl, who 
turns away astonished and frightened 
at the admiring gaze of a stranger; 
but the furtive glance which seeks to 
avoid the eyes of others. It is well to 
teach children to look into the faces of 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 185 

those who speak to them, not inso- 
lently, but simply, with the confidence 
which all honest persons should feel in 
themselves and others. It is wrong to 
repress eagerness, enthusiasm, in young 
creatures when it is excited by the 
beautiful, the great, and the good. If 
they are forced to restrain the excite- 
ment in their young blood, if their 
hearts are not permitted to beat freely, 
they will veil the fire in their glances, 
and their eyes will lose all frankness of 
expression. 

Truly beautiful eyes are those 
which express feelings without conceal- 
ment. I have seen sweet, tender, and 
kind eyes flash lightning glances in 
moments of indignation or admiration. 
They know nothing of concealment. 
Those who have such eyes may be 
trusted, 



186 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Beware of the man who does not look 
you clearly in the eye. He has possibil- 
ities of evil in his nature. There are 
eyes which are luminous, others which 
seem to be veiled behind a curtain. 

Men and women of the world are 
accustomed to judge human nature by 
the expression of the eye. Many peo- 
ple read character by the eyes, and can 
thus distinguish the false from the 
loyal, the frank from the deceitful, the 
hard from the tender, the energetic 
from the indolent, the sympathetic 
from the indifferent. 

Love speaks through the eyes, and 
needs no other language. " Love," 
says an English poet, '* is born in the 
eyes." Unfortunately he adds in a 
jesting spirit, ''like the potato," al- 
luding to the eyes of that vegetable 
which form its roots. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 187 

How often have we heard " One 
look from her eyes enchained me for- 
ever." Beautiful limpid eyes so ap- 
peal to heart and soul that they are 
irresistible. 

The power of the hypnotist lies 
chiefly in the eyes. It is a power 
which should never be abused. 

To my mind, no eyes can be beauti- 
ful unless they reflect good wholesome 
thoughts and noble sentiments. Gen- 
erous indignation does not destroy 
their seductive power, and their beauty 
is not lessened by the fire of enthu- 
siasm. 

The most perfectly colored and well- 
shaped eyes, under the influence of 
jealousy, deceit, envy, or brutal anger, 
lose all their charms. 

Women who " make eyes " do not 
deserve to have eyes. 



1 88 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Care of the Eyes. 

Never rub the eyes, for this practice 
causes inflammation of the lids, and 
however beautiful the expression, if the 
eyes are red or without lashes, they 
lose their charm. 

When a foreign substance gets into 
the eye do not irritate it by trying to 
force it out. Keep the eye closed for 
a few moments, or until the object is 
removed by the tears which will flow. 

If the wind has reddened the eye- 
lids, wash them in slightly salted warm 
water (common salt). Veils, espe- 
cially dotted ones, are very injurious to 
the eyes. They should, therefore, only 
be used during the winter, as a protec- 
tion against cold. 

Late hours and artificial light redden 
and fatigue the eyes. Lamps should 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 189 

be supplied with shades. It is danger- 
ous to gaze at the sun or electric light. 
Gaslight, candles, ordinary lamps, 
should be shaded by screens, smoked 
glasses, etc. 

Never sit in front of a blazing fire 
without a screen. 

Reflections of light on white walls, 
or on long stretches of dusty road, or 
on snow, are very fatiguing to the eyes 
when not protected by smoked glasses ; 
some oculists insist that even these 
glasses are injurious. Hats with large 
brims, shading the brow, make the best 
head covering for summer wear, as 
they shade the eye from the painfully 
bright rays of light. 

However strong the eyes may be, 
give them a little rest after a few hours' 
continuous use. Never force them to 
gaze at minute objects when they are 



19° MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

weak ; neither write, read, nor sew 
when the light is dim. During all 
continuous work close the eyes from 
time to time at intervals. 

The most reposeful colors to the 
eyes are blue and green. Do not sur- 
round yourself with very bright colors. 
Red is blinding. Choose in prefer- 
ence delicate colors in draperies, stuffs, 
paper, etc. 

Dark tints are not suitable in dec- 
oration or furniture. Too great con- 
trast between colors is equally fatigu- 
ing to the sight. 

The light should fall from the side, 
not full in the face. When working it 
should be allowed to fall upon the left 
side. Writing should be done on 
tinted paper, and only well printed 
books and papers should be read. 
Never read, write, or sew lying 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 191 

down, as it is apt to produce 
vertigo. It is bad to read on the 
railway, in a carriage, while walk- 
ing, in bed, while physically tired, and 
also when convalescent. Be careful of 
your stomach. It is said that Milton be- 
came blind, not only from over-use of 
his eyes, but from dyspepsia. Living 
in damp places produces feebleness of 
vision. Hygienic conditions, sobriety, 
the avoidance of all excesses are re- 
warded by good eyesight. 

Insufficient nourishment is very inju- 
rious. Avoid passing from extremes 
of heat and cold, from obscurity into 
light. Beds should not be so placed 
that the eyes receive the full rays of 
sunlight on awakening. The light 
should fall from the side. It is well to 
wait a few moments on coming from 
an obscure light into a bright one, be- 



I9 2 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

fore beginning to read, write, or work. 
Montaigne advises the placing of a 
colorless glass on the page which is 
being read, and in this way the wear- 
ing of spectacles may be avoided in- 
definitely. Under the glass, the paper 
of the book or magazine is, in fact, 
softened, and the characters appear 
more clearly. The light should not be 
allowed to strike directly on the glass. 

Never rub the eyes on awakening, 
and do not permit children to acquire 
the habit. 

Use eyeglasses, microscopes, magni- 
fying glasses, as little as possible. 
Remove your spectacles or eyeglasses 
often in walking, talking, etc. 

Bathe the eyes frequently, especially 
night and morning. If congestion is 
feared, use warm water. Weak, black 
tea is good for pain in the eyes. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 193 

Avoid all ointments, washes, etc., 
not prescribed by a good physician or 
oculist. It is impossible too strongly 
to denounce the use of so-called " eye 
beautifiers." Many women have ruined 
their eyes from just such folly. 

If the eyelids are inflamed, wash them 
in rosewater and plantain. The juice 
of the strawberry strained through a 
piece of linen is very efficacious. 

An old physician has advised the use 
of elderberry water for the painful 
itching sometimes felt in the eyes. 

The water of Chervil is refreshing to 
irritated eyes. A physician recom- 
mends the following prescription : One 
quart of soft water, a pinch of common 
salt, a spoonful of brandy. Allow it to 
dissolve. Shake well before using. 
This wash will strengthen the sight 
and restore its powers. 



194 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Night is the best time for bathing 
the eyes. 

Eyelashes. 

To be beautiful and to protect pro- 
perly the eye, the lashes should be long 
and thick. When they possess these 
qualities, they soften the expression. 

It is asserted that there is a salve 
called trikogene which makes the 
lashes grow. Some women have their 
lashes trimmed by an expert to make 
them longer and thicker. The eye 
should never be rubbed. This habit, 
which is evil in many respects, causes 
the lashes to fall out. I would advise 
that they should not be blackened, 
though it adds to the charm of the eye. 
All artificial coloring so near this 
precious organ of sight is doubly 
dangerous. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 19S 

Eyebrows. 

Heavy eyebrows impart a brutal and 
rough expression to the face. Small 
fine brushes are made to keep them 
in order. Penciled, well-arched eye- 
brows give to the face an air of seren- 
ity. On the other hand moderately 
thick eyebrows are an improvement to 
the eyes. 

Scant, thin eyebrows, which form a 
red line above the eye, are a blemish. 
They can be improved by applying 
a little petroleum oil every morning 
after having bathed them in cold water. 
Clipping the eyebrows makes them 
thicker. 

To those who insist on artificially 
lengthening and coloring the eyebrows, 
despite my horror of dyeing, I suggest 
a means which is perfectly harmless : 



I9 6 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

it is a solution of Chinese ink and rose 
water. This is one of the secrets of 
the harem. 

Other Counsels. 

It is affirmed that squinting is fre- 
quently due to placing the cradle of 
an infant in a bad light. The child on 
awakening is forced to look cross-eyed. 
Consequently the child's bed should be 
carefully situated. The light should 
strike it always from the side, and 
never from in front or behind the 
head. Squinting is easily corrected, 
and often corrects itself. In obsti- 
nate cases I urge those who are 
afflicted to consult a good oculist. 
Time, money, suffering, even, should 
influence no one who desires relief. 
The good results will amply recom- 
pense all sacrifices. 



THE NOSE. 

ITS ABNORMAL REDNESS. 

"If the nose of Cleopah'a had been shorter, the whole face 
of the earth would have been changed" 

Your nose may be perfectly 
chiseled, but if the roses on your 
cheek invade it, you would prefer a 
snub nose that is white to an inflamed 
Grecian one. You would be quite 
right if there were no remedy for this 
evil. 

When the redness of the nose is 
not due to cold weather, but to the 
dryness of the nasal passage or to the 
delicacy of the capillary vessels, it is 
easy to remove the inflammation. 
The following wash may be used : 
Powdered borax, ten grammes ; one 



198 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

teaspoonful of cologne; soft water, 150 
grammes. Melt the borax in the water; 
then add the cologne. It is sufficient 
to moisten the nose with the wash and 
let it dry without wiping. When it 
begins to burn again, the treatment 
should be renewed. 

Here is another and similar wash : 
Dissolve two grammes of borax in fif- 
teen grammes of rose water, and as 
much orange flower water. Moisten 
the nose three times each day with this 
refreshing wash. 

Redness of the nose arises frequent- 
ly from congestion. In this case it 
should be washed only at night, before 
going to bed, and in hot water. 

This unbecoming redness which we 
are discussing may also be attributable 
to the temperament. Scrofulous per- 
sons are afflicted with it. They should 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 199 

abstain from ham, fat of any kind, meat, 
bacon, grease ; also salt meats and 
spiced food. 

This redness is sometimes produced 
by the condition of the nostrils, which 
swell. For this use hot water ; cold 
water increases the redness of the nose. 
The nostrils should never be touched 
with the fingers. Draw into them a 
little warm water and then eject it 
gently. Recamier cream spread on 
the irritated parts will protect them 
from the effects of the air, and soften 
the inflamed surface. A cold in the 
head aggravates the evil, in which case 
the head should be covered when 
sleeping. Tight clothes, especially 
corsets, and a too feeble action of the 
heart cause this redness. In the first 
case, the clothes must be loosened. In 
the second, much rest should be in- 



200 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

dulged in. In the morning on rising 
bathe the body in cold water and rub 
vigorously with a Turkish bath brush. 
The air breathed should be pure, both 
night and day. 

Acne, or Blackheads. 

Blackheads are a form of acne, in- 
dicated by little black specks on the 
skin, chiefly about the nose, forehead, 
and chin. Each speck marks an ob- 
structed outlet of the sebaceous glands, 
and if pressure is made on either side, 
something having the appearance of a 
small white worm may be pressed out. 
Upon careful examination this so-called 
worm proves to be a mass of hardened 
sebaceous matter, or sebum, which has 
assumed this shape by being pressed 
through the small outlet of the follicle. 
The black speck giving to this little 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 201 

cylinder of fat the appearance of a head, 
is, shocking as it is, simply an accumu- 
lation of dirt. The technical term for 
one of these little masses is comedo. 
When examined under a microscope 
they are frequently found to contain a 
whole family of parasites ; male, female, 
and their numerous progeny. 

Obviously there is but one way of 
getting rid of blackheads, and that is 
by forcing them out of the clogged 
pore. They cannot be drawn back 
from whence they came, and in press- 
ing them out before the skin is properly 
softened and prepared for their ejection 
the patient ruptures the delicate tissue, 
causing either an ugly little scar, or 
more likely an enlargement of the 
opening, which immediately fills up 
again, each time increasing in size and 
more malignant in appearance. 



202 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Blackheads may not only be re- 
moved without leaving any scar, but 
once rid of them the patient need 
never again be troubled with them, 
if he will but carefully follow the 
advice here given. 

For three weeks, or until the skin is 
thoroughly softened, apply Recamier 
cream every night before retiring. 
Let the cream remain on the face dur- 
ing the night. In the morning wash it 
off with water, as hot as can pleasantly 
be borne, and a little pure soap. Rinse 
the face thoroughly with cooler water. 
At the end of three weeks the black- 
heads will, in most cases, have been ex- 
pelled by the treatment. In obstinate 
cases proceed as follows : 

Before attempting the removal of 
these truly loathsome blemishes, apply 
a little Recamier cream. Press on 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 203 

either side of the clogged pore until 
the so-called "worm" is forced out. 
Be careful not to be rough and injure 
the skin by sharp finger nails or any 
steel instrument ; if the sebaceous mat- 
ter will not come out it is because the 
skin is not properly softened, and you 
must patiently continue the first part 
of the treatment. Operate on the 
blackheads at night, if possible, before 
retiring, and do not attempt to get rid 
of all at one time. After the matter is 
forced out bathe the face in warm 
water, in which put a little pulverized 
borax, and also use a little pure soap 
that the now emptied follicle may be 
thoroughly cleansed. Continue this 
treatment until the blackheads are all 
gone. 

Do not imagine, however, that these 
troublesome imperfections will not re- 



204 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

turn if you neglect your skin. Noth- 
ing but care will keep the follicle from 
filling up again, care and great cleanli- 
ness. 

The Science of Rhinoplasty. 

This science concerning the nose has 
reached such perfection that it is now 
possible to modify or change the form 
of the nose. The process employed is 
due to discoveries in the medical pro- 
fession. 

Those persons afflicted with large 
noses may be glad to learn of a method 
of reducing their proportions. Wear 
eyeglass frames during the night, and 
as much as possible during the day. 
If the nose is slightly crooked — devia- 
ting from the median line — it should be 
blown exclusively on the defective side 
until it becomes perfectly straight. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 205 

In New York some millionaires* 
change their noses into either Greek, 
Roman, or Hebrew, as they prefer, by 
means of an instrument which they 
wear at night. 

* The European idea of the " New York millionaire " is 
a caricature, as distorted as the typical Yankee of the stage. 
— H. H. A. 



THE EAR. 

CLEANSING THE EAR. 

" Like shells of pearly hue" 

I must be pardoned if I insist on the 
cleansing of the external ear, as well 
as of the auditory passage, which is also 
external. There are persons who are 
scrupulously clean, but who from ignor- 
ance of the details of this part of the 
body use a sponge, or merely a towel, 
in cleansing the ear, and so do not suc- 
ceed in removing the accumulations of 
dust or other particles which may be 
secreted in the folds. A little instru- 
ment of ivory called an aurilave is nec- 
essary. It must be covered with the 
end of a wet towel, and penetrate into 



208 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

all the folds and corners, which have first 
been soaped, and where the fingers, no 
matter how slender, cannot reach. 
Remove from the external passage the 
wax, which accumulates in too great 
quantities and is disgusting to the 
eye. 

I have seen charming little shell- 
shaped ears, with rosy tips, but which 
were disgraced by want of care. They 
should have been adorable, but were 
repulsive. How much worse an ugly 
ear must appear when neglected ! 

Precautions against Deafness. 

If there is ever so slight a tendency 
to deafness, care should be taken not 
to wet the hair. Avoid cold plunge 
baths. Wear even in the bath an oil 
silk cap. 

When the ear is slightly deaf never 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 209 

allow the feet to grow cold. Avoid 
dampness of the extremities, and never 
sit with the back to an open window. 
These imprudences aggravate the 
infirmity. 

Never pour any liquid into the ear, 
unless it has first been warmed. Never 
pour oil, or milk, or any other greasy 
substance into it with the hope of 
relieving it when suffering from ear- 
ache. All grease becomes rancid and 
increases the inflammation. 

If a living insect gets into the ear 
there is no cause for alarm, for the 
bitter cerumen will soon force it to 
leave. 

Hot water may be poured into the 
canal of the ear and the insect will be 
drowned and come to the surface. A 
few puffs of smoke blown into the ear 
will stupefy the intruder. 



2IO MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Never strike a child on the ear. The 
tympanum might thus be ruptured, and 
incurable deafness be the result of the 
brutal act. 

The Acoustic Fan. 

I wish to point out to women who 
are afflicted with a nervous form of 
deafness an extremely simple and easy 
way of getting rid of this disagreeable 
infirmity, which almost excludes from 
society those who are afflicted by it, 
preventing their hearing conversations 
around them, and consequently from 
taking any part in them. 

They should carry a Japanese fan, 
made of bamboo sticks, thick and cov- 
ered with paper. When they wish to 
listen they have but to take the fan, open 
it, apply the rim to the upper jaw (on 
the side of the defective ear) and bend 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 211 

it sufficiently to give some tension to 
the bamboo sticks. They will be quite 
surprised to find that they can hear as 
well as though they used an audiphone 
or dentaphone. Besides, this fan is a 
less formidable and more graceful 
appliance. 



THE HAND. 

ITS BEAUTY. 

" / take thy hand, this hand. 

As soft as dove's down and as white as it:' 

It is asserted that one must be of 
patrician descent for five generations 
to possess hands so perfect and aristo- 
cratic as to be beyond criticism. 

I cannot say that this recipe is 
infallible ; it is certain that it is not 
within the reach of all. 

Still there is consolation. It is a 
great deal to have a white and delicate 
hand, though not perfectly modeled, 
and this at least is possible, even while 
doing housework, or gardening, on 
condition, however, that some pains be 
taken. 



214 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Never hesitate then to use the hands 
when necessary, to utilize the gifts 
which God has given you for the serv- 
ice of others. It is easy to keep them 
soft and fine, despite the work you 
may be forced to do. The noble 
women of other days attached so much 
importance to the beauty of their 
hands that one of them, the Countess 
of Soissons, never closed hers for fear of 
hardening the joints. How could any 
woman condemn herself to such torture? 
It was for the same reason that pages, 
and later lackeys, were required to 
carry prayer-books and other small 
articles which were considered too 
heavv for slender and small hands. In 
the 1 8th century fashionable women 
required their servants to open the 
doors for them lest their hands should 
be made large by the handles, and also 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 215 

by the weight of the door. They cited 
Madame Crequy as a surprisingly reso- 
lute woman, "because," said they, "if 
no lackey were within call, she opened 
the doors herself, without fear of blis- 
tering her hands." 

In our day feminine hands are more 
useful. Many women do not shrink 
from manipulating potter's clay, and 
we do homage to those who hold in 
horror the idleness in which their ances- 
tors found pleasure. 

If the hands are afflicted with wens 
or warts they may be removed by 
means of the remedies suggested in 
the chapter on the face. 

Care of the Hands. 

In doing housework or gardening, 
old gloves which have lost their fresh- 
ness and grown large by use may be 



2i6 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

worn. They will protect the hands 
from the effects of the air, and keep 
them clean. Too frequent washing is 
open to objection. But there are 
many labors which cannot be performed 
with covered hands, and in that case 
they must be washed as often as nec- 
essary. A perfectly pure soap should 
be used. A little almond meal may 
be put into the warm water in which 
the hands are washed, and if they are 
much soiled a little borax or ammonia 
may be added. 

The roughest hands will be softened 
if care is given them before retiring 
at night. It scarcely requires five 
minutes to efface the traces which the 
rudest labor may have left on the 
hands. And the necessary articles are 
not expensive. A nail brush, a box 
of rose paste, a box of nail powder, a 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 217 

vial of ammonia, almond meal, and 
French Amandine and a lemon are 
useful. 

If a callous spot forms on the inside 
of the hand it must be rubbed, as 
patiently and for as long a time as 
may be necessary, with pumice stone. 
This operation preserves the softness 
of the hand and the delicacy of 
touch. 

Stains may be removed by lemon, 
borax, or ammonia, according to their 
nature. 

When the hands have been per- 
fectly cleansed, rub them with French 
Amandine. Wear gloves while sweep- 
ing. 

If glycerine were not injurious to 
many skins it would be excellent. The 
following mixture will be acceptable 
to those who can use glycerine. The 



2i8 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

yolk of an egg f six grammes of glycer- 
ine, seven grammes of borax. Mix 
well. Rub the hands with this salve, 
and cover them with gloves. 

Almond meal, which is cheaper, will 
do as well. The white of an egg is rec- 
ommended, in which has been dissolved 
five centigrammes of alum.* 

If the hands are very rough, and have 
been much used, cold cream maybe em- 
ployed with great advantage at the be- 
ginning of the daily treatment which 
has been suggested. After using for 
one month the hands will be sufficiently 
improved to need only almond meal. 

Women who do no domestic work 
may keep their hands white by simply 
washing them night and morning in 
bran water. 

* Alum often roughens the skin. Use it carefully, if at 
all— H, H, A, 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 219 

A mixture of lemon juice and glyc- 
erine, equal parts, is frequently advised 
for redness of the hands. The follow- 
ing is a recipe for almond paste : Take 
fifty grammes of bitter almonds; throw 
into boiling water in order to remove 
the skins; dry them. Crush in a mortar 
or with a thick bottle. Crush separately 
thirty grammes of orris root (if the 
skin is not easily irritated), and thirty 
grammes of starch. Mix with the 
pounded almonds, and add the yolks of 
four eggs. Moisten the paste with 200 
grammes of spirits of wine, and twenty 
drops of essence of rose. Heat on a very 
slow fire, stirring incessantly with a 
spoon. This preparation should be kept 
in jars in a cool place. It becomes a 
powder, and is used to rub the hands 
night and morning. This paste may 
also be made of bitter almonds, 250 



220 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

grammes ; oil of sweet almonds, 500 
grammes ; honey, 500 grammes ; the 
yolks of six eggs. The honey is 
heated separately ; then mix with the 
flour and eggs. Add the oil last, and 
knead the whole. 

Washing the Hands During the Day. 

Never have soiled hands, but do not 
wash oftener than necessary. Lemon 
juice will remove many stains. If a 
little salt is added to this juice it is 
still more efficacious. 

A bit of orange or lemon skin re- 
moves tar stains. Care must be taken 
to wipe the hands dry immediately. 

Fresh tomatoes and strawberries, a 
leaf of sorrel, a little milk, are also ex- 
cellent for removing ink stains. 

Before peeling Irish potatoes, the 
hands should be well dried, and 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 22 1 

should not be washed immediately 
after. By this slight precaution they 
will not be stained with the juice of 
the tuber. 

After paring certain fruits and vege- 
tables a little lemon juice removes all 
stain. The hands must first be moist- 
ened in water. 

To cleanse the hands after very rough 
work use a good emollient or cream. 
Rub the hands with a small quantity 
of the emollient, which will penetrate 
well into the pores of the skin and be- 
come incorporated with the greasy sub- 
stances. Wash the hands in hot water 
and soap. This treatment makes them 
very soft. 

Hands which are " sanctified by la- 
bor " may thus retain an agreeable ap- 
pearance, which is not to be disdained, 
especially when it is so easily obtained. 



222 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 

Moist Hands. 

Moist hands are unfit for certain 
kinds of work, and are unpleasant to 
the touch. 

To keep the hands agreeably dry, 
rub the palms several times each day 
with a cloth soaked in the following 
preparation : Cologne water, seventy 
grammes ; tincture belladonna, fifteen 
grammes. 

Hands which have a tendencv to 
perspire too freely when exposed to the 
slightest heat may be washed in water 
in which a little powdered alum has 
been dissolved. 

Sunburned Hands. 

At the close of summer, hands which 
have been kissed too often by the sun 
are a source of annoyance. The pres- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 223 

ent rage for out-of-door sports, such as 
croquet, lawn tennis, sailing and rowing, 
has played havoc with many fair hands. 
The sunburned hand is in harmony with 
the life led in summer. On returning 
to town and resuming laces and silks 
the contrast is not pleasing. One is 
tempted too late to regret not having 
worn gloves. 

Time is a certain cure for sunburn. 
When it is impossible to wait there are 
other remedies which it may be well to 
try : lemon juice and glycerine mixed, 
or a paste made of corn starch and glyc- 
erine. A farmer's daughter of my ac- 
quaintance uses only buttermilk. The 
acidity is said to remove freckles and 
sunburn; the oil contained in it is sin- 
gularly beneficial and softening to the 
skin. It is as efficacious as any rem- 
edy known, especially if the hands are 



224 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

washed in it on going to bed and then 
covered with gloves. Many persons 
wash their hands only in hot water 
during the day. At night they moisten 
them with rose water and glycerine, and 
wear gloves while sleeping.* All the 
preparations recommended, in the chap- 
ter devoted to the face, for sunburn and 
freckles, are equally applicable to the 
hands. 

Large Hands. 

If the hands are large do not wear 
tight sleeves. The pressure on the 
arm will make the hands swell. A 
tight wrist band is as unbecoming to 
a large hand as a low heel is to a large 
foot. 

* It is unpleasant to wear gloves all night, and unneces- 
sary. There are many simple and excellent emollients 
which will keep the hands soft and smooth without wearing 
gloves. — H. H. A. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 22$ 

If the fingers are square or very 
large at the ends they may be made 
more tapering by continuous pinching 
and pressing. It is unnecessary to say 
that taper fingers, which are so cov- 
eted, cannot be secured in a day, but 
with time improvement will be noticed. 

Chapped Hands. 

For children, and even for many 
grown persons, winter is the time for 
chapped hands. It requires but little 
care to avoid the suffering which re- 
suits from chapped skin. It is essential 
that the hands should be thoroughly 
dried each time they are washed, and 
never exposed, when moist, either to 
cold or to the heat of the fire. 

Women who are occupied with 
household cares, who paint, or are 
engaged in similar occupations, are 



226 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

obliged to wash their hands fre- 
quently, and in order to save time they 
are often careless about drying them ; 
the result is a rough, red skin. Never 
neglect to dry your hands as thor- 
oughly as possible. They may also 
be manipulated before the fire until 
soft and flexible. 

Children should be taught to dry 
the hands in this manner. 

It is painful to look at the tiny chap- 
ped hands of most of the little girls 
and boys whom you meet. The little 
creatures suffer both from cold and 
artificial heat. With proper care the 
hands may be inured to great artificial 
extremes of temperature. 

Rubbing the hands with amandine 
before retiring preserves them from 
the disastrous effects of cold or heat 
to which they may have been sub- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 227 

jected. They must not be washed in 
cold water, as this predisposes them to 
chapping. Very hot water is not good 
for them either. People who have not 
moist skins should be especially care- 
ful to dry the hands thoroughly after 
washing. They may afterward be 
covered with cold cream or amandine, 
which should be wiped off with a soft 
towel. 

Where these precautions are not 
taken and the hands are neglected, a 
cure may be effected by the following 
treatment : Wash the hands in hot 
water and anoint them well with aman- 
dine, honey paste, or cold cream. Rub 
the hands together, interlacing the fin- 
gers, until they become soft and are no 
longer easily hurt when struck against 
any hard substance. Afterward it will 
be necessary to remove the grease by 



228 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

washing them in warm water with a 
few drops of ammonia and a pure 
soap. Change the water several times, 
Then apply to the hands the follow- 
ing mixture : Glycerine, cologne, soft 
water, equal parts. After this process 
the hands will be soft and not at all 
greasy or sticky, as might be supposed. 
I have seen a laundress whose hands 
seemed to have been parboiled by con- 
tinual washing of clothes. She suf- 
fered greatly, and the stretched, cor- 
roded skin of her poor hands was 
as painful as that of the face often be- 
comes, when it has been too frequently- 
steamed. By using the prescription 
above referred to her hands became 
supple and white. An English 
physician recommends the following 
mixture to preserve delicate hands 
from chapping : Carbonic acid, seven 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 229 

grammes, fifty centigrammes ; glycer- 
ine, ten grammes ; yolk of one egg. 
Mix well. Anoint the hands several 
times each day. If there is the least 
scratch on the skin do not use this rem- 
edy. Here are a few other recipes for 
this painful trouble. They are equally 
serviceable for any part of the 
body : 

First. Yellow wax, fifteen grammes ; 
olive oil, twenty grammes. Cut the wax 
into small pieces, throw it into the oil, 
and melt over a slow fire in a Puritan 
Cooker saucepan. Rub the chapped 
places every night with this pomade. 
If it is the hands which are affected, 
wear gloves; if other parts of the 
body, use a bit of old linen. 

Second. Cocoa butter, five 
grammes ; oil of sweet almonds, five 
grammes ; oxide of zinc, eight 



230 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

grammes, ten centigrammes ; borate 
of soda, ten centigrammes ; essence 
of bergamot, eight drops. This lini- 
ment is very good for the lips 
also. 

Third. Take one handful of ground 
flax seed (very pure), one spoonful of 
oil of bitter almonds ; mix well, and 
add a sufficient quantity of hot water 
to form a thin paste. Put the hands 
in this paste and rub them for about 
fifteen minutes. Afterward rinse in 
warm water. The oil of bitter almonds 
is prepared by mixing two grammes 
of essence of bitter almond in 500 
grammes of olive oil. This recipe 
may also be used to soften the skin of 
the hands and to remove chilblains 
which are not bleeding — another winter 
ailment which we will now con- 
sider. 



MY LADY'S DRESSIiYG ROOM, 231 

Chilblains. 

Chilblains are still more to be feared 
than chapping. A feeble temperament 
and bad nourishment are often the 
causes of this affection. One should 
walk a great deal, use the hands freely, 
rub the chilblain parts which are not 
bleeding with alcholic preparations, 
and keep hands and feet very warm. 

One would suppose the hands less 
delicate and less in need of covering 
than the face. However, everyone 
knows the necessity of protecting them 
from the biting cold of frost or wind. 

In damp and mild winters chilblains 
are most painful. There are many 
remedies for this trouble, which is not 
dangerous, but the cause of great suf- 
fering, and which will deform the 
prettiest hands in the world. 



232 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

First. Pound the bulbs of lilies and 
place them in a vase containing nut 
oil. Apply this liniment on the sore 
places, and cover with a soft cloth. 
(This is excellent.) 

Second. Brittany honey will cicatrize 
open chilblains. Anoint the parts 
affected, and cover with a soft white 
cloth. 

Third. Poultice the hands at night ; 
rub with the following mixture in the 
morning : Tincture benzoin, sixty 
grammes ; honey, thirty grammes ; 
water, 210 grammes. Mix well. 

Fourth. Wash ulcerated chilblains 
with tincture of myrrh diluted with 
warm water. 

Fifth. Anoint cracked chilblains with 
Sultana pomatum, and cover with a 
soft, fine cloth. Cracked chilblains are 
difficult to cure in winter. This pain- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 233 

ful stage of the disease may be pre- 
vented by using the following pre- 
scriptions, which should never be ap- 
plied to chilblains when bleeding. 

First. Saturate the parts frequently 
with a little spirits of salt put into a 
large quantity of water. (Linnee.) 

Second. A physician recommends a 
solution of permanganate of potassium 
to destroy the chilblain.* 

Third. Another prescribes the fol- 
lowing treatment : before going to 
bed bathe the hands in mustard and 
water, then apply a liniment composed 
of camphor and turpentine oil. 

Fourth. Constipation must be avoid- 
ed, and the body should perform all 
its functions. Avoid wearing tight 
sleeves, which impede circulation, make 

* This should be used with discretion. It .may give 
much pain. — H. H. A. 



234 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 

the hands cold, and produce chilblains. 
They are sometimes prevented by rub- 
bing the hands with a slice of lemon. 
(This is also good for chapping.) 

Fifth. Infuse thirty peppers in 
double their weight of rectified spirits, 
keep in a warm place for one week, 
and you will thus obtain a strong 
tincture. In another vessel, melt some 
gum Arabic in water, making it the 
consistency of syrup ; the quantity 
should equal that of a tincture. Mix 
the two preparations, stirring well, 
until they become cloudy, opaque. 
Take some leaves of tissue paper, 
cover the surface of the sheet with the 
mixture, and allow it to dry ; place a 
second sheet over the first ; if the sur- 
face is brilliant after the second drying 
the two applications will be sufficient. 
If not, apply once more. The paper 



MY LADY'S DRESSIXG ROOM. 235 

which is thus prepared is intended 
(when moistened) to cure red, swollen, 
or burning fingers. 

Sixth. Wash in mustard water. 
Put some mustard (Dijon preferred) 
in hot water, and apply. 

Seventh. One-half part of sulphuric 
acid, two of glycerine, and three of 
water. Have this prepared by a drug- 
gist. The vial should be labeled 
poison. Wash the afflicted parts in 
this water. 

Eighth. Salts of ammonia, one 
ounce ; glycerine, one and a half ounce ; 
rose water, eight ounces ; shake well 
until the ingredients are dissolved and 
mixed. Use as a wash. 

Ninth. Wash the hands two or 
three times each week with a saline 
solution. 

Tenth. Cut two white turnips in 



236 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

slices and pass through the sieve with 
three large spoonfuls of pure animal 
fat. Apply at night and cover with 
white cloth. 

Eleventh. Infuse one handful of 
oak bark in warm water, and let the 
hands soak in it for a few minutes. 

Twelfth. Make a decoction of a 
pinch of laurel leaves in one quart of 
water. Wash the hands each morning 
in this water, which should be warm. 

Thirteenth. At the first signs of red- 
ness and irritation use the following 
mixture : Five parts of essence of rose- 
mary and one part spirits of wine. 

Fourteenth. Make a lotion with 
ninety grammes spirits of wine at 
ninety degrees, into which melt ten 
grammes of phenic acid, crystallized. 
Apply with a cloth tampon. At night 
put on a compress. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 237 

Vinegar added to one-quarter part 
of camphorated brandy prevents chil- 
blains on hands which are susceptible 
to this trouble. 

All the remedies recommended for 
the hands may also be used for chil- 
blains on the feet. 

Care of the Nails. 

Pretty nails are considered a great 
beauty. At the base there should be 
a white crescent and the nails should 
be as rosy as the dawn. Beautiful 
nails are compared by the poets to 
onyx, and, in fact, in Greek onyx 
means nail. According to the mytho- 
logical legend : " One day Love, finding 
Venus asleep, cut her nails with the 
iron point of his arrow and flew off. 
The clippings fell on the sands of the 
shore, and, as nothing which comes 



238 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

from the body of an immortal can 
perish, the Fates carefully gathered 
them up and changed them into the 
quasi-precious stones which are called 
onyx. * 

The nails should be cut in a curve 
which follows the shape of the end of 
the finger. The surface of the nails 
should also be polished. 

One hour a week spent in caring for 
the nails is sufficient to keep them in 

* The "Art of Manicuring " was originated by Sitts, 
who was Louis Phillipe's pedicure. His descendants are 
still famous in France, and the Sitts method undoubtedly 
is the proper and scientific one. The Sitts method totally 
condemns the use of steel either under or around the nail. 
Madame Sitts says, ' ' An orange-wood stick with a little 
French amandine will keep the nails perfectly smooth and 
clean underneath. Why roughen them with a piece of 
sharp steel, or thicken them with an acid ? And as for 
cutting and lacerating the cuticle around the outside of the 
nail, why that was intended by nature as a selvage (lisiere) 
and if you cut it you make them ragged just as you would 
the selvage of a bit of cloth. As well cut the border of the 
eyelid or ear." The Sitts method is practiced by one or 
two manicures in New York. — H. H. A. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 239 

good order, if they are rubbed and 
cleaned carefully each day. 

Never use a steel instrument in 
cleaning the nails, as it hardens them 
and causes the dust to accumulate be- 
neath. Nothing is better than the juice 
of a lemon, which keeps the skin at the 
base from encroaching- on the nail and 
also prevents white spots, often caused 
by lack of care. Cold cream at night, 
or French amandine, is excellent for 
softening the nails, and also prevents 
them from breaking off and becoming 
dull. 

I have been given a recipe for 
making the nails hard. (The hardness 
of a nail is one of the conditions of its 
beauty.) Melt on a very slow fire 
fifteen grammes of nut oil, two grammes 
and fifty centigrammes of white wax, 
five grammes of rosin, and one gramme 



240 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

of alum. This pomatum, which should 
be whipped while on the fire, is to be 
used at night. 

A manicure set is indispensable for 
the proper care of the nails. It should 
consist of an ordinary nail brush, a 
still smaller one to go under the nail, 
a file, a polishing brush, curved scissors 
— a pair for each hand ; the nails of the 
right hand cannot be cut with scissors 
made for cutting the nails of the left 
hand. 

Gloves. 

If the gloves do not fit easily, the 
hands appear short and clumsy. The 
fingers of the glove should be quite as 
long as the fingers of the hand. 

Besides, tight gloves do not last, 
which is an economical consideration. 
Refined and thoroughbred women 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 241 

never wear gloves too small for them, 
and many insist on a glove large 
enough to wrinkle, which may be taken 
off or put on in an instant. Kid gloves 
wear much longer when they are prop- 
erly put on the first time. " It is quite 
a science," said a charming woman. 
The hand should be perfectly clean, dry 
and cool. Never put on gloves when 
the hands are moist or too warm. 

First push in the four fingers, leaving 
the thumb out and the rest of the 
glove turned back over the hand. 
When the fingers are on, thanks to the 
gentle movements of the other hand, 
draw on the thumb with great care, 
placing the elbow on the knee. 
After this, draw back the wrist of the 
glove and button the second button, 
continuing this all the way up. Then 
return to the first button, and vou will 



242 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

see how easily it fastens without crack- 
ing the kid, which often happens if 
buttoned first. Besides this, the but- 
tonhole will not be stretched, which 
is of great importance if one wishes 
the glove to look well as long as it 
lasts. Never pull the glove off by the 
finger tips, but by the wrists. They 
will thus be turned wrong side out, and 
the moisture communicated from the 
hand is quickly evaporated. When 
they are dry put them carefully away 
in a proper place. Otherwise they 
shrink, split easily, and are useless. 
Never roll up gloves. Place them at 
full length in a box or perfumed sachet. 
Light gloves should be put away be- 
tween two pieces of white flannel to 
preserve them from contact with dark 
gloves, which might stain them. 

Black kid gloves are renewed by ap- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 243 

plying with a feather a few drops of 
good black ink in a spoonful of olive 
oil and drying 1 them in the sun. Light 
gloves, if only slightly soiled, may be 
cleansed with flour. If much soiled 
use neufaline. 

In buying odoves examine the seams 
well. If the stitching shows a drawn 
white place on the kid they will be 
easily torn, will last only a short time, 
and never look well. 

Silk and woolen gloves are much 
warmer than kid. For very cold days 
fur-lined gloves may be used, or 
woolen gloves drawn over kid ones. 

The Arm. 

The feminine arm should be round 
and white. If it is thin it may be de- 
veloped by rubbing it energetically. 

Superfluous hair on the arm may be 



244 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

removed by the remedies recom- 
mended for the face. 

Red arms may be rubbed with 
almond and honey paste. 

Cosmetics are not to be recommend- 
ed (especially for young girls), though 
some of them are harmless. They 
should be of some well-known manu- 
facture. 



THE FOOT. 

CONDITIONS OF BEAUTY. 
" The grass stoops not, she treads on it so light." 

When the foot is well formed, shoes 
wear out slowly and the general 
appearance is harmonious and grace- 
ful. 

The most charming foot can be de- 
formed by a shoe that is too short or 
too narrow. An ugly foot becomes 
still more so if an effort is made to 
conceal its dimensions by compression. 
We must resign ourselves to the feet 
which nature has given us. We endure 
useless torture when wearing shoes 
not intended for us, and which, instead 

of remedying defects, but add to them. 

245 



246 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

The feet of the ancients were very 
beautiful (see the statues) because the 
sandals and buskins did not closely 
confine them. In our time, it is only 
in the East, especially in Japan, that 
the human foot can be seen in all its 
perfection. In the Empire of the Ris- 
ing Sun the feet formerly knew no 
restraint. The foot covering was al- 
ways made for the comfort of the 
foot, and followed its outlines. But 
the custom of the European has been 
adopted within the land of the Tycoon, 
and our abominable style of foot cover- 
ing, which deforms the foot because 
it regards neither its structure nor 
the movement made in walking, is 
used. 

Ladies' boots, narrow and pointed 
shoes, have given rise to innumerable 
pains and infirmities, and have spoiled 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 247 

both the feet and the general appear- 
ance. 

Here are a few hints concerning a 
reasonable coquetry ; but will they be 
heeded ? Do not attempt to shorten 
the foot ; this only increases its thick- 
ness. There is no beauty in such a 
foot. It should be well proportioned, 
and in harmony with the body. A long 
and slender foot is more elegant be- 
cause it looks narrower. It is absurd 
to compress a large foot. It is only 
made more ugly. It becomes very pain- 
ful, and all ease in walking is sacrificed. 

It is asserted that the English and 
Germans have very large feet because 
they drink so much beer. And that 
Americans, who also drink a great deal 
of beer, are beginning to lose the 
beauty of their feet. In the wine coun- 
tries, France, Spain, Italy, etc., where 



248 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

the women drink but little, the feminine 
feet are very delicate, very shapely. 

Choice of Shoes. 

If the slender foot is a little too 
long, it should be encased in a shoe or 
boot which has a short vamp, laced or 
buttoned up the front. When the 
shoe is ornamented on the front part, 
the length of the foot is diminished. 

If short and fat, the foot requires 
shoes which have long vamps buttoned 
or laced on the side. 

When the foot is very flat it re- 
quires rather high heels. 

On the contrary, when the instep 
possesses that curve which is found in 
its perfection among the Arabs, and 
which is considered a proof of blue 
blood by the Spaniards, this curve 
should not be exaggerated by a high 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 249 

heel, which shortens a foot that does 
not need to be shortened. 

The Moliere shoe enlarges the ankle 
and breaks the curve ; it should be 
abandoned, in the name of all that is 
aesthetic. The low shoe is, on the 
contrary, very pretty and sensi- 
ble. 

The boot is really not in good taste, 
though in the winter no other cover- 
ing is possible, for the feet and ankles 
must be protected from the cold. The 
black bottine is the only really pretty 
covering, and should extend above the 
ankle. When of cloth it makes the 
foot appear much larger than when of 
leather or kid. 

A white shoe should never be worn 
except on a perfect foot, as it increases 
its size and makes it more conspicuous. 
Under all circumstances, a shoe should 



250 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

be at least one shade darker than the 
gown. 

Slippers or Oxford ties, but not shoes, 
may be of any color. They should 
harmonize with the toilet. 

Black shoes and stockings diminish 
the size of the foot in length and 
thickness. 

Women who have stout ankles 
should wear high clocked stockings. 

It is the worst possible taste to wear 
heavy shoes with light toilets. If 
you cannot afford fine shoes, wear only 
dark and simple gowns. 

Trying on Shoes. 

If possible have shoes made to 
order. If you must buy ready-made 
ones, try them on in the evening. 
The feet are larger and more sensitive 
at night, because of the exercise they 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 251 

have had during the day. The mus- 
cles are also more tender from con- 
stant motion and the augmented flow 
of blood. The weight of the body so 
seriously affects the circulation of the 
blood that women obliged to stand all 
day suffer much from swollen feet. 
This, too, often causes varicose veins. 
When one is in good health, the feet 
return to their normal size after a rest. 
This is because they no longer have 
to sustain the weight of the body. 

Therefore shoes should be tried on 
at night ( when the feet are tired). 
In this way the shoes will be comfort- 
able at all times. 

Never wear new shoes when taking 
a long walk. Wear them first in the 
house for several days, then on short 
walks. 

In taking the precautions which I 



252 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

have advised, you will insure as much 
comfort to your foot in a new shoe as 
in an old one, and your boots, shoes, 
slippers, etc., will last a great deal 
longer. 

A pair of well-made shoes is recog- 
nized by this sign : when they are 
placed beside each other, they touch 
only at the big toe and at the heel. 
The soles follow the outline in order 
that the foot may rest at ease the full 
length. 

Care of the Feet. 

Wash the feet each day, and use 
pumice stone to remove all callous 
spots. 

I said that the feet should be 
washed daily. This must not be con- 
founded with the daily bath. 

Walking warms the feet. Foot 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 253 

warmers and also open fires are not 
conducive either to beauty or health. 
They induce varicose troubles in the 
legs. 

When traveling in cold weather, 
wear high leggings over the shoes to 
prevent chilblains. Fur-lined carriage 
shoes are even more comfortable, but 
are clumsy things to handle. In the 
country light sabots are indispensable 
for walking in the garden in damp 
weather. Sabots, india rubbers, etc., 
should not be worn in the house. A 
bath of tilleul is a great relief to tired 
feet. 

After long standing, a salt bath is 
excellent for resting the feet. Put a 
handful of sea salt in four quarts of 
water as hot as can be borne. Immerse 
the feet, and with the hand throw the 
water on the legs as high as the knee. 



254 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

When the water cools, dry briskly with 
a rough towel. 

This treatment, repeated night and 
morning, will cure neuralgia of the 
feet. When the feet are swollen from 
a long walk, or standing, it is well to 
bathe them in water in which wood 
ashes have been boiled. Before put- 
ting the feet in, strain the water 
through a cloth. Swelling and fatigue 
disappear rapidly. Alcoholic friction 
is also advised. If the feet perspire 
unpleasantly, a good remedy is bath- 
ing them with water containing a little 
borax ; afterward, powder the feet 
with the dust of lycopodium. 

The following also may be tried : 
Salicylic acid, three parts ; talc, seven 
parts ; starch, nine parts. Pulverize 
and mix the three substances. Pow- 
der the feet with this preparation. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 255 

Sprinkle boric acid on the inside of 
the shoes. 

However, consult a physician before 
using any of these remedies. I believe 
that these recipes are harmless ; but I 
also know that it is sometimes danger- 
ous to suppress perspiration. One can 
at least change the stockings two or 
three times each day. 

Ingrowing Nails. 

This is a most painful infirmity. If 
the nails are cut squarely, and not 
almond shaped, on both the great toe 
and small one, they will not grow in. 

But when the evil is there, we must 
try to cure it. • Make a soft paste with 
mutton suet, pure soap, powdered 
sugar, in equal parts, and apply until 
the flesh is forced back. 

Or, wet the w r hole foot and dry it 



256 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

well. Afterward, apply to the affected 
part a solution of gutta percha and 
chloroform. The operation should be 
repeated about four times the first 
day. The next day the number of ap- 
plications may be reduced. 

The following is the formula: Chlo- 
roform, eighty parts ; gutta percha, ten 
parts. This most efficacious remedy 
is due to Dr. Potain. 

Another: Loosen the flesh, cut the 
nail, moisten the affected part with a 
camel's hair brush soaked in perchlo- 
rate of iron. The flesh is thus made 
insensible and hard. This remedy is 
said to be infallible. 

Corns. 

This infirmity is, fortunately, not 
without a remedy, whatever may have 
caused it, 



MY LADY'S DRESSfiYC ROOM. 25? 

A shoe which is too large is almost 
as injurious as one which is too small. 
The foot which is not properly sup- 
ported rubs constantly against the 
leather in moving, and this rubbing 
produces corns almost as surely as 
compression. 

When the corn is a new formation, 
it may be removed by the use of pum- 
ice stone. 

When it is tender, applications of 
wool, soaked in castor oil, or rose ge- 
ranium leaves, preserved in oil, are 
often all that is necessary to cure it. 

A poultice made of bread crumbs, 
soaked in vinegar thirty minutes, will 
remove a corn in one night. 

Good results are obtained from dis- 
solving a false pearl in vinegar ; the 
creamy substance is then applied to 
the corn. So Cleopatra did not live 



258 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

in vain. The corn should be covered 
at night with a fine cloth, and care 
taken to keep it well in place. 

Orpin, a topical epithem, may be ap- 
plied to hard corns, which it softens 
and makes easy to remove. A raw 
onion, crushed, has the same virtue, 
and also the leaf of the ground ivy, 
soaked in vinegar. Besides this, the 
leaf serves to protect the corn. A 
little wet plaster of paris, made into a 
paste, answers the same purpose, as 
does also a corn plaster, with a hole 
in the center. This plaster is made of 
agaric amadouvier (agaric of the oak), 
which is applied to the corn and thus 
protects it from the pressure of the 
shoe. 

The following are more scientific 
formulae for preparing ointments for 
removing corns. They resemble each 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 259 

other slightly, but these trifling differ- 
ences may make them the more suit- 
able for the various kinds of corns : 

First. Salicylic acid, four grammes ; 
atropine, ten centigrammes ; flexible 
collodion, thirty grammes. 

Second. Salicylic acid, twenty 
grammes ; extract cannabis indica, two 
grammes; collodion, 120 grammes. 

Third. Salicylic acid, one gramme ; 
extract canabis indica, fifty centi- 
grammes ; alcohol, at 90 , one gramme ; 
ether, at 62 , two grammes, fifty centi- 
grammes ; flexible collodion, five 
grammes. (Formula of P. Vigier.) 

Whichever of these remedies is used, 
mix the substances together, and put 
them in a well-corked bottle. Saturate 
a small camel's hairbrush with the mix- 
ture, and apply it at least twice to the 
corn. Repeat this treatment daily for 



26o MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

two weeks; at the end of this time 
soak the foot for one hour in warm 
water. 

The bunion, which particularly af- 
fects the joint of the big toe, and some- 
times the ball of the foot (in which 
case heels should not be worn on the 
shoes), is cured in several different 
ways. 

First. If it is inflamed, cover it with 
a plaster and wear soft slippers. Anoint 
the affected part with a salve composed 
of seven and one-half grammes of iodine 
mixed with thirty grammes of lard. 

Second. Cover the bunion with a 
piece of oiled silk, over an application 
of animal fat. 

Third. Take a piece of doeskin, make 
a hole in it large enough to receive the 
bunion, and place it over the inflamed 
spot. Cover with oiled silk. Over 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 261 

this rub the bunion twice each day with 
a salve of animal fat and iodine. 

Fourth. A plaster of diachylon is 
excellent. A bunion may also be 
trimmed and cauterized with sulphate 
of copper, which is sold in sticks, like 
nitrate of silver. 

Cramps. 

Cramps are most distressing. 

They are produced by the wearing 
of shoes too tieht across the toes. 

It is said that persons subject to 
cramps at night are immediately re- 
lieved by raising the head. This may 
be done by extra pillows, or by putting 
two bricks under the castors at the head 
of the bed. 

I can vouch for the truth of the state- 
ment that remedies containing arsenic, 
even in infinitesimal proportions, pro- 



262 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

duce terrible cramps in the calf of the 
leg. 

The Care of Shoes. 

Damp shoes should be at once re- 
moved on entering the house. If filled 
with dry oats the grain absorbs the 
dampness and prevents the leather from 
hardening. They should never be 
placed near a fire. Let the oats remain 
until the following day. When dry, 
they may be used again in the same 
way. 

Filling the shoes with paper produces 
the same result ; the dampness will be 
absorbed, and the shoe retain its shape. 

Paraffin softens shoes which have 
been hardened by dampness, and 
restores their flexibility. Heavy hunt- 
ing boots are softened by exposure to 
the smoke of broom straw, or if rubbed 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 263 

with sweet oil and lard. It makes 
them easier to wear, and they last twice 
as long, and protect the feet more ef- 
fectually against damp and cold. 

To make the soles of shoes last 
longer, and render them impervious to 
water, warm them slightly, and give 
them coats of copal varnish, drying 
them after each coat. 

A mixture of cream and ink is excel- 
lent. The varnish used on harnesses 
is equally good for preserving kid 
boots. Take a very small quantity on 
a bit of cloth and rub it on well. Polish 
it with a piece of dry cloth. 

In orange-growing countries they cut 
an orange in half, rub the juicy side on 
the soot of an iron pot, and then into the 
boot. The boot is then brushed with 
a soft brush, which gives it a high 
polish. 



264 my lady's Dressing room. 

To prevent shoes from creaking or 
cracking, rub the soles with linseed oil, 
or place them on a plate full of the oil, 
and they will absorb it. This renders 
them water and snowproof. 

How to Put on Lace or Button Shoes. 

The stockings should always be 
longer than the feet. They must be 
well pulled at the toes, in order that 
the heel may find its proper place. 

Very few people know how to 
button or lace their shoes properly. 
Generally the lace is pulled too tightly, 
and the foot often made extremely un- 
comfortable. Place the heel firmly in 
the shoe, then move the toes until 
they feel comfortable. After these pre- 
liminaries, put your foot on a chair in 
front of you, and proceed to lace the 
shoe over the instep as tightly as possi- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 265 

ble, but gradually, in order to keep the 
foot firm in the shoe, while giving the 
toes perfect liberty. At the ankle the 
lacing must be done so as to give com- 
fort to that part of the foot. 

The same process is necessary when 
putting on buttoned boots. Begin 
with the third button above the vamp, 
and fasten as far as the ankle ; before 
going farther, return to the first two 
buttons. Lastly, button that part 
which covers the leg, doing this as 
loosely as possible, for pressure there 
is injurious to health. 



MYSTERIES OF THE TOILET. 

LINGERIE. 

' ' Make it orderly and well, 

According to the fashion and the time" 

A truly refined woman is instinctive- 
ly fastidious about her personal linen. 

I have been told that in the days 
when bustles were worn, many rich 
ladies secured the abnormal size, which 
filled all artists with despair, by the use 
of worn-out muffs, old lingerie rolled 
up, and other articles of that kind. 

On the other hand, shop girls econo- 
mized on their underclothing, in order 
to buy wire or hair bustles, which they 
were obliged to renew as fast as they 
lost their shape. 

Dressmakers say that society women 

267 



268 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

do not hesitate to send them, as models, 
bodices with linings shockingly soiled, 
which have never been properly cared 
for. I have seen superb gowns worn 
over frayed satin skirts covered with 
mud. 

Undergarments may be simple, but 
they should>be as irreproachable as the 
gown itself. 

They should be cut as gracefully as 
possible. If they can be made of fine 
materials so much the better, but 
rather than to own them in limited 
number, insufficient for daily changes, 
it is preferable to purchase less costly 
ones, and so secure the necessary 
number. 

Underwear of surah and colored 
batiste has somewhat lost favor recent- 
ly. Many refined women have always 
clung to the use of fine white linen, or 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 269 

even cotton, which may be easily washed 
either at home, or by a good laundress, 
and which are returned to the wardrobe 
smelling sweetly. 

Chemises of colored surah, rose, 
blue, mauve, etc., have, according to my 
taste, this drawback, that they can never 
be subjected to a thorough washing. 
For this reason, they are of doubtful 
elegance. Well-bred women object to 
the over-elaborate trimming of under- 
garments. They prefer a moderate use 
of laces, which must always be real, 
which are not injured by washing. 
What can be more agreeable than to 
put on fresh lingerie ? 

Black stockings are now but little 
worn, except for the street. With the 
slippers and low shoes which fashion 
now decrees for the house, silk hose 
of the same color must be worn. 



270 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Corsets and Their Detractors. 

The corset has many detractors. 

Some say that it destroys the form 
of a woman, others, that it ruins her 
health. 

" Look at the statues of antiquity," 
they cry, " those chefs-cT oetivres, which 
represent the real beauty of the human 
body as it came from the hand of Na- 
ture. Have the Venuses small waists 
like the modern women ? No, no, this 
divine structure has not been confined, 
put under restraint, it has been freely 
developed, has blossomed out. Such a 
goddess may bear children, and trans- 
mit to her son strength and health." 

Charles X., who remembered the long 
wasp-waisted corset of Marie Antoi- 
nette, was a savage enemy of the 
corset. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 271 

One of my scientific friends assures 
me that the corset has so flattened 
the ribs, which in a healthy woman 
should be curved, that the feminine 
skeleton of to-day will puzzle scientists 
in the ages to come. 

The Genevese physician, Tronchin, 
attributed the greater part of the fem- 
inine diseases of his day to corsets, and 
to mitigate the evil he says he induced 
the women to adopt the Watteau 
gown, under which they could loosen 
the horrible instrument of torture. 

How many husbands have quoted to 
their wives the example of Mme. Tal- 
lien, who disdained, all her life long, to 
imprison her pretty figure in whale- 
bone and satin, and who for all that, 
perhaps on account of that, was con- 
sidered the most attractive woman of 
her day. 



272 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Advantages of the Corset. 

The detractors of the corset are 
right when they blame the foolish 
women who deform their bodies and 
destroy their health to reduce the size 
of the waist half an inch, an infinitesi- 
mal advantage, especially when one 
thinks of the price paid : compression 
of the vital organs, difficulty in breath- 
ing, congestion of the face. (There 
are women who go so far that they 
imperil the function of maternity.) 

But if the corset is only worn as a 
support for the frail bust, it becomes, 
on the contrary, useful. Elasticity 
and flexibility have been given to it, 
and this insures perfect comfort and 
ease, which means graceful move- 
ments. The waist is supple, bends 
like a reed in the wind, and does not 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 2?3 

offend us by a rigidity which reminds 
one of the steel armor worn by the 
knights of old. 

Corsets are absolutely essential to 
stout women. They restrain the ex- 
cess of flesh, and without them it is 
impossible to make a stout woman 
look trim. However expensive her 
garments, she would not appear well 
dressed, and would always look 
slovenly. 

The corset supports the skirts, which 
would otherwise hang too heavily upon 
the waist ; without its assistance a thin 
or slender woman could not carry her- 
self well. At the least movement she 
would appear hipshot. The corset 
has also another good quality : it 
serves as a support to the breast, 
whose distended fibers would soon 
relax and fall too low if this restraint 



274 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

did not keep it in its place, and so 
preserve it in that form which " serves 
as a model for the cup on the altar." 

How the Corset should be Made. 

The corset should have bones only 
in the back and front, unless the 
person for whom it is made has lost 
her true proportions ; in that case it 
should be supported on the sides also. 

Coutil is too stiff a material, 
according to my opinion, for corsets. 
Satin, even cotton satin, is preferable, 
since we do not need armor ; but the 
best of all materials for women who 
are not too stout is doeskin. 

We shall, doubtless, reach this point 
of perfection, for we already have open 
lace corsets for summer use, and cor- 
sets which are enlarged at will, thanks 
to the elastics with which they are pro- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 275 

vided. These are intended for feeble 
and delicate women. 

A short corset is, in every respect, 
preferable to a long one, since comfort 
and grace are at stake. If the corset 
is too high under the arms it makes 
the shoulders high, which is not desir- 
able. If too long, it lengthens the 
waist unbecomingly, and the legs seem 
too short, and thus the happy harmony 
which constitutes true beauty is de- 
stroyed. The corset which is short on 
the hips leaves the movements free. 
Do not be indifferent to the shape of 
the corset. 

The shorter the corset the smaller 
the waist. Large, stiff corsets give a 
wooden appearance, and increase the 
size of the waist. 

Do not allow fashion to rule you, 
when it decides in favor of those 



276 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

sheaths which give one the appearance 
of an automaton. Resist with all 
your strength the dressmaker who in- 
sists upon putting you into one. If 
you have allowed yourself to be im- 
prisoned in the stiff cuirass, unlace the 
top holes and the two lower ones, and 
let the middle ones be so laced as not 
to press you at all. Thanks to this 
artifice, you may really be comfortable 
in this corset until you get another. 

A corset should always be perfectly 
fresh. A soiled one indicates a care- 
less wearer. It should be protected 
by a corset cover, and washed as soon 
as soiled. Whatever be the material 
of which it is made, whatever its color, 
white, blue, pink, or mauve, never 
wear it after it loses its freshness. The 
gray, or mastic colored corset always 
looks soiled. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 277 

It cannot be denied that the black 
corset is economical. It has the advan- 
tage of not soiling, for it is perfectly 
easy to preserve its white lining clean 
until worn out. A black corset in 
good condition is certainly to be pre- 
ferred to a soiled white one. 

The Leg. 

When a child's legs have a ten- 
dency to curve, do not let it walk. 
Let it roll on a carpet, where it can 
twist and turn at its ease, and the 
little legs will soon straighten them- 
selves. 

In order to avoid varicose troubles, 
women should avoid fastening their 
garters too tightly. Exercise de- 
velops the leg and enlarges the calf. 
Excepting for the fact that high 
gaiters make the leg appear un- 



27# MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

shapely, they are excellent when walk- 
ing. 

Garters. 

Garters are an article of the toilet 
which should be carefully considered. 
They may be very simple, or fastened 
with a jeweled buckle ; they must be 
irreproachable. They should always 
be clean and fresh, never ragged or 
threadbare. 

I do not admire garters trimmed 
with laces or ornamented with flowers. 
In America they are w r orn of different 
colors ; one pair is composed of one 
yellow and one black garter, or of one 
yellow and one blue garter, etc. One 
of the garters must be yellow, as this 
is said to bring good luck. I do not 
know whether the yellow is to be worn 
on the right or left leg. This dissimi- 
larity is very ugly, and one must have 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 279 

a great deal of faith in the talismanic 
virtue of the yellow garter to willfully 
commit such a crime against good 
taste. Common, cheap garters are 
neither durable nor elegant.* 

Securing the Slocking. 

Many women endure the pressure of 
a garter sufficiently tight to hold the 
stocking. When the circulation is im- 
peded the legs swell, and varicose veins 
are sometimes formed. In this case 
the stockings may be fastened to the 
corset by tapes. But accidents may 
happen ; what if the stretched tapes, 
which keep the stocking from wrink- 
ling, should give way? Down go the 

* Whenever an Englishman or Frenchman wishes to ac- 
count for an outre fashion he solemnly adds it to the list of 
American outrages. I think I am correct in saying the 
wearing of the one yellow garter originated in Paris, and 
that the dubious fashion was introduced by an Opera Bouffe 
so-called artiste. — H. H. A. 



280 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

stockings to the heels. What a state 
of affairs ! I advise wearing a garter 
not too tight, but sufficiently so to 
hold up the stocking in case of an acci- 
dent. 

The garter should not be worn below 
the knee, for this is absolutely contrary 
to the laws of aesthetics. The form of 
the calf is injured, and the natural line 
of beauty destroyed. 

Besides, one no longer sees any 
women, except perhaps old peasants, 
who tie the garter below the knee, and 
this is made necessary by the short 
stockings they wear. 

All women who wear long stock- 
ings have for many years worn the 
garter above the knee. It is only in 
the distant provinces that the fashion 
of tying them with tape, listing, some- 
times with twine, still exists. The 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 281 

most humble servant wears elastic gar- 
ters fastened with a buckle ; before ten 
years let us hope that the garters we 
condemn will have entirely disappeared. 

The Chemise. 

The chemise, the short underskirt, 
the corset cover, should match if possi- 
ble, and be made of fine percale or 
batiste, trimmed with embroidery or 
lace. The prettiest chemise is cut heart- 
shaped ; a ribbon passed through a 
casing or narrow insertion keeps it close 
to the neck. It may also be fastened 
on the shoulder by a bow of ribbon, 
and the neck and arm holes bordered 
with a lace edge or narrow embroidery. 

The chemise should not be too volu- 
minous or too long. The underskirts 
should be of taffeta silk corresponding 
in color with the gown. White muslin 



282 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

or percale petticoats are no longer con- 
sidered good form for the street, and 
embroidered and lace trimmed skirts, 
except for the house, are tabooed. 

The Nightdress. 

The flannel or underclothing worn 
during the day should never be worn at 
night. This is unhealthy as well as un- 
cleanly. The nightdress should fall to 
the feet, have sleeves to the elbow or 
wrist, and may be trimmed with em- 
broidery or lace. It may be finished 
with a high collarette falling in plaits 
to the shoulder ; fastened with ribbons 
at the neck and wrists. It should be 
made of material which will stand wash- 
ing. 

After taking off the night clothes, if 
they are not changed each day, they 
should be allowed to air for several 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 283 

hours. Delicately bred women, how- 
ever, never wear any garment which 
comes in contact with the skin but once 
before it is washed. The lingerie may 
be as simple as possible — to suit the 
fastidious it must be of exquisitely fine 
material, and never have come in con- 
tact with a sewing-machine. 



£> 



Early Morning Toilet, 

I have said that it was better to wash 
the face with hot water and soap at 
night, in order not to expose the skin 
to the air immediately after being 
washed.* In the morning bathe the 

* Many women declare they cannot wash their faces with 
soap because it makes them so tender. 1 insist that the 
face cannot be kept clean without soap. The trouble is 
generally that the soap is not thoroughly washed out of the 
skin — and in consequence irritates it. If the soap is pure, 
and the face thoroughly rinsed, it will not make the most 
delicate skin sore. When we discover a method of keeping 
our hands perfectly clean without soap, it will be safe to 
adopt it for our faces. — H. H. A. 



284 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 

face in warm water, dry with a fine 
towel, then take a full bath, followed by 
brisk rubbing, or, if this is impossible 
daily, a thorough sponge bath is indis- 
pensable. Time and trouble are well 
repaid by the wholesome results. 
Women who go out immediately after 
breakfast should dress the hair for the 
day on rising. 

Women who attend to household 
duties should make a second toilet 
later in the day, carefully removing all 
traces of dust from face, neck, and hair. 

The woman who does her own work, 
as well as the one who simply superin- 
tends the house, should, when she arises, 
put on clothing that is clean, spotless, 
without rents, and as becoming as 
possible. Change the undergarments, 
stockings, skirts, etc., as well as the 
gown, when the toilet is made in the 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 285 

afternoon, whether one goes out or 
remains at home. 

The Night Toilet. 

Many persons prefer to take a bath 
at night. In any case it is indispens- 
able either at night or in the morning, 
and most refreshings Brush the hair 
at night, in order to remove the dust 
which may have gathered during the 
day. For its arrangement at this hour 
instructions are given in the chapter on 
hair. 

Removal of Garments. 

Never put away immediately in 
drawers or wardrobe any articles which 
have just been taken off. Hang them 
in a place which the air reaches for at 
least an hour. Put them away after 
having brushed and folded them. 



256 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Clothing which is not laundried 
should be hung out to air during the 
day, from time to time, turned wrong 
side out. 

Clothing which has been worn a 
long time, if not aired properly, con- 
tracts most disagreeable odors, and no 
perfume will conceal them. 

Air, water, sunshine, and fire have 
disinfecting qualities which are purify- 
ing ; and we should know how to avail 
ourselves of them. 



PART THIRD. 



PART THIRD. 



ADVICE AND RECIPES. 



FEMININE DIET. 

tf You should be ruled and led by some discretion" 

Alimentation. 
To avoid old age, that bankruptcy 
of women, take enough nourishment, 
varied according to the season. An 
early breakfast of milk is excellent. 
Eat little at the second breakfast, es- 
pecially if there is any work to be done. 
The principal repast of the Roman 

soldiers and workmen was taken at 

289 



29° MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

night, after the daily labors were over. 
At the second breakfast an egg and 
one vegetable are sufficient. Dine at 
six o'clock — seven at the latest ; do 
not have too many courses. Take a 
little cup of milk and a light biscuit 
on going to bed. A diet which is 
too succulent, too dainty, the abuse 
of strong meats, condiments, spices, 
liquors, and rich wine, are enemies of 
the complexion. 

To secure and retain a fine color, 
partake sparingly of animal food. 
Meat once a day, and in moderate 
quantities, is sufficient. Vegetables, 
on the contrary, may be used more 
abundantly. Some are more favorable 
to beauty than others. In the four- 
teenth and fifteenth centuries they 
made soups a la Morgeline (white 
chickweed), in order to freshen the 



MY LADY'S DRESSiXG ROOM. 29I 

complexion. These soups were called 
" soupes au roi," because Odette de 
Champdivers, who nursed Charles 
VI., first administered this herb to 
him as a remedy. White chickweed 
was also eaten as a salad. Decoc- 
tions and infusions were also made 
from it to relieve the face of erup- 
tions. 

Chickweed should resume the place 
given it, then, since as a food it has 
retained all its virtues. 

A rhyming proverb of the Renais- 
sance recommends especially certain 
vegetables : 

Through spinach and leek, 
Lily tints in a week. 

To these mav be added the cu- 
cumber, carrot, tomato, and all other 
good vegetables. Graham and rye 



292 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

bread should have a prominent place 
among the selected articles of food. 
A slice of either between the second 
breakfast and dinner will not injure 
the stomach. Too much butter, lard, 
grease, and oil should not be used in 
cooking, as they are injurious to the 
complexion. Pastry should only be 
e.aten about once a week, and sugar 
should be used sparingly. Bonbons 
almost never ; acids not at all. Con- 
serves should not be eaten daily. In 
many cases cheese is excluded, except 
Gruyere, which is wholesome. Tea, 
coffee, and chocolate are not injuri- 
ous, provided they are used in moder- 
ation. Milk and lemonade are, on the 
contrary, excellent for the complexion. 
Wine should be weakened : with at 
least double the quantity of well fil- 
tered water. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 293 

Boire de l'eau 
Fait le teint beau, 
Boire du vin 
Fait le gros teint. 

A glass of hot water before dinner 
improves the complexion. It is a 
good plan to weaken wine with 
mineral and digestive waters. 

Fruit should always be eaten after 
meals. Eat strawberries freely in 
their season, if you have no tend- 
ency to eczema ; they cool the blood 
and the liver, and are said to cure gout 
and rheumatism, if aided by a strict 
diet. The cherry has the same quali- 
ties. It is prescribed also for vesania, 
a disease of the mind. The red 
raspberry is very refreshing ; so is 
the plum. The peach ( the rose 
among fruits) is very good for the 
stomach. 



294 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

The apple is the most wholesome of 
all fruit. Its good qualities are in- 
numerable. The orange may also be 
recommended highly. 

It is asserted the Baroness X., who 
was one of the beauties at the court 
of Louis Philippe, and who at eighty- 
four years of age still had brilliant 
eyes and the fresh skin of a girl, lived 
entirely on oranges for forty years. 
One dozen for her breakfast, one 
dozen at noon, one dozen and a slice 
of bread and glass of Bordeaux for her 
dinner. 

I advise no one to put themselves 
on this diet, but it is certain that the 
most beautiful women are, generally, 
as temperate as camels. The Mar- 
quise de Crequy, who lived during the 
last century, and died when almost 
a hundred, for fifty years ate only 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 295 

vegetables cooked in chicken broth and 
grilled compotes. She drank nothing 
but water, except during her pregnancy, 
when her physicians required her to 
take sweetened wine. During the last 
forty years of her life a little candied 
sugar was put in the water which she 
drank. Several women of my acquaint- 
ance, who have perfect complexions, 
live upon vegetables and cooked fruits, 
and drink only water during the Len- 
ten season. 

Some women follow the forty days' 
abstinence imposed by the Church, 
with two extra weeks of fruit and vege- 
table diet. They give as a reason for 
this penance the necessity of destroy- 
ing the effects of fish, which is eaten 
so largely during Lent, and which is 
apt to produce pimples on the purest 
skins. On this account many women 



296 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

very seldom eat sea food, and espe- 
cially avoid shell fish. 

If the advice here given is followed, 
the results obtained will be surprising. 
Diet does much more for the complex- 
ion than physicians and drugs. 

Beauty is impossible without health. 
As soon as one feels indisposed, a 
strict diet of short or longer duration, 
is generally the best remedy. By this 
we mean abstaining from rich dishes 
and heavy wines ; the hours of meals 
should be arranged at equal inter- 
vals. 

Recollect always that what serves to 
sustain life may also destroy it. To 
keep in good health be careful to place 
some limit on the appetite. 

In the spring especially the diet is of 
the greatest importance. A celebrated 
physician told me that the medicinal 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 297 

spring time should begin the last of 
January. 

As age draws on, the quantity of 
nourishment should be diminished, and 
only articles of food which are digest- 
ible selected. After sixty this be- 
comes imperative. 

The Life One Should Lead. 

A charming old lady revealed the 
secret of her fair and rosy complexion 
to a group of young women as follows : 
" Late hours," said she, " and over- 
sleeping ruin the complexion. Go to 
bed early, arise early, and you will 
grow old slowly, and retain your good 
looks to an advanced age. If, how- 
ever, your position forces you into so- 
ciety and you are obliged to be up 
late at night, sleep an hour every after- 
noon. Before going to bed take a hot 



298 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

bath and remain in the water only a 
few moments. Then drink a cup of 
bouillon, and a small glass of Malaga 
wine. Sleep will soon follow, and last 
until the natural time of awakening, 
which is about ten o'clock in the morn- 
ing under these circumstances. Take 
a cold plunge or sponge bath, a light 
breakfast of cafe an latt> and bread 
without any butter." The old lady 
added : " See how necessary it is to 
give as little of ourselves as possible 
to society, and how much precious 
time (never to be regained) we waste 
in fetes and pleasures." 

She continued: "Out-of-door exer- 
cise is an absolute necessity, but must 
not be carried to excess. A daily walk 
is excellent, and it is scarcely neces- 
sary to say that whole days of lawn 
tennis, croquet, etc., are not favorable 
to the complexion." 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 299 

Wear warm, light garments, to se- 
cure an even temperature. In winter 
it is even more important to protect 
the spine than the chest. Wear a silk 
sleeveless jacket next the skin, if you 
do not wish to wear a flannel one. At 
any rate, if you are delicate, young or 
old, cover the spine with a strip of 
flannel tied by a ribbon, and extending 
to the hips. There will be no need 
to fear colds, bronchitis, phthisis, if 
this precaution is taken, and it does 
not prevent wearing a decollette 
gown. 

Never wear tight clothing. It is 
injurious to health and beauty. The 
face becomes congested when the or- 
gans are compressed, the hands swell, 
and get red, and the carriage awk- 
ward. Wear easy corsets, gloves, and 
shoes. 

Take, from time to time, in the 



3°o MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

morning, a glass of some saline water, 
If the complexion is muddy, take a tea- 
spoonful of powdered charcoal, mixed 
with honey, on going to bed, three 
nights in succession. Follow this by a 
light purgative. 

All forms of iron and Peruvian bark 
have a ruinous effect upon the com- 
plexion. Alkaline solutions, mixed 
with a slight quantity of arsenic, on 
the contrary, are very beneficial.* 
When in good health, sponge the 
body each day with cold w T ater. Live 
in a wholesome house. In winter do 
not allow the temperature to fall 
below 53 Fahrenheit in the bedrooms. 
Work ; keep yourself busy, read, take 
an interest in the great and beauti- 
ful things of Nature and Humanity. 

* Arsenic should not be taken under any circumstances 
except by advice of a physician. — H. H. A. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 301 

Activity of the body and spirit delays 
old age. Avoid excitements and 
senseless luxury, and do not allow 
yourself to be governed by violent 
emotions. 

A sober life refines the features. 
Gluttony materializes and deforms the 
body. Temperance in all things will 
preserve beauty and freshness of com- 
plexion. 

Do not paint your face in youth if 
you wish to preserve your complexion 
in old age. When threads of silver 
begin to sprinkle your hair, do not 
have recourse to dyes, which cause it 
to fall out, and destroy its glossiness, 
fineness, and elasticity. Beautiful white 
hair makes a far more becoming frame 
for the face in old age than bands of 
raven black hair or blond curls. 

Do not keep too many odorous 



302 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

flowers around. " Flowers," said an 
old physician to one of my very pretty 
aunts, u are jealous of a woman's 
beauty, and try to destroy it." This 
was a gallant metaphor, which was in- 
tended to convince his beautiful pa- 
tients of the danger that existed in 
having too many flowers about one. 
The headaches which frequently follow 
certainly do not beautify. 

Gymnastic exercises have been 
highly recommended for middle-aged 
women. When it is necessary to use 
the arms, why not exercise them on 
housework ? This advice was recently 
given to a northern queen, who fol- 
lowed it, and profited thereby. With 
hands covered with gloves one can 
dust, brush, or sweep, as necessity re- 
quires. This gymnastic exercise is 
sufficient and useful, natural and 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 303 

wholesome, and one does not appear 
ridiculous while engaged in it. 

All the members of the body should 
be exercised. Cultivate a cheerful 
disposition. As we advance in life, 
let us become more indulgent and 
kind. A kind nature and calmness 
of mind are among the indispensable 
conditions for retaining beauty. 

In old age, let us not attempt to look 
too young. A dowager in a low-necked 
tulle gown, with her head adorned with 
flowers, is grotesque. She should wear 
rich and heavy materials, cover her hair 
with a fichu of lace, and drape a scarf 
about her aged shoulders. 

An old woman dressed like a young 
girl is something terrible to look at. 
We may still love youth — in others — 
and should always greet it with pleasant 
smiles. 



3<H MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

In one word, let us accept the inev- 
itable gracefully. One must grow old, 
but with care we may still remain 
charming, and be beloved by our chil- 
dren, and our friends of all ages. 

Secrets of Beauty. 

In the care of the skin consider care- 
fully its texture. Dry and oily skins, 
flaccid and firm ones require very dif- 
ferent treatment. 

But whatever happens, beware of 
charlatans, and only use the prepa- 
rations of well-known manufacturers, 
whose merits are attested by physi- 
cians. Bathe in river, spring, or rain 
water, if possible. The juice of melons, 
of cucumber, slightly oily, is good for 
dry skins. The juice of strawberries 
will thoroughly cleanse an oily skin. 
An infusion of flowers of lavender or of 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 305 

marjolan (origan) is a tonic, and will 
harden the flesh. 

These remedies must not be abused, 
and never be used daily. All treat- 
ment should be interrupted from time 
to time, and for several days. Any 
remedy loses its effect as soon as the 
body becomes accustomed to it. 

A faded face (dry skins always fade 
soonest) may be freshened by the use 
of a wash which we here ^ive. 

Boil the soft part of bread and marsh- 
mallow roots in filtered rain water. 
When the water has evaporated a little 
pass a bag of lye through it, then add 
the yellow of eggs (in strong propor- 
tion) and fresh cream. Mix well, and 
perfume with orange-flower water. * 

This water is unfit to use after stand- 
ing, so it must be prepared afresh each 

* This recipe is too indefinite to be indorsed. — H. H. A. 



306 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

time. Plantain water is equally well 
recommended. 

Pretty Octogenarians. 

An octogenarian, w r e have already 
remarked, may still be beautiful and 
charming. I have seen more than one 
example of this persistence of beauty 
at an advanced age. At eighty-five, 
the Marechale Davout, Princessed'Eck- 
miihl, the wife of the conqueror of 
d'Auerstadt, still had the carriage of 
a queen, superb eyes, and the finest 
complexion in the world, so white as to 
rival her snowy hair. 

She never used anythingbut rain water 
for washing her face. Her table was 
simply served, excepting on the days 
when she entertained, and even then 
she did not depart from her abstemious- 
ness. She was generous, kind-hearted, 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3°7 

and gracious, a truly grande dame, pre- 
serving until the last her charm and 
grace. Although one of the most beau- 
tiful women of her day, she cared little 
for the triumphs of beauty. She was 
always constant to the one love of her 
life, her soldier husband, and her 
thoughts were ever with him, and the 
dangers he was exposed to. Old age 
neither frightened nor saddened this 
brave spirit, and although she endured 
great sorrow she daily grew more at- 
tractive. Her eyes reflected only 
wholesome thoughts, and she was sur- 
rounded by that halo which encircles 
the heads of strong, virtuous women. 
Everyone has heard of her daughter, 
the Marquise de Blocqueville, mistress 
of the most delightful house in Paris, 
whose literary talent alone places her 
in the first ranks ; possessing kindness, 



3o8 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

generosity, and exquisite grace, finding 
her happiness in giving joy to others, 
making everyone appear at his best, 
her pure brow reflects her noble 
thoughts. Like her mother, she has 
white hair, which she lightly powders, 
and which adds to the resemblance she 
bears to the adorable women of the 
eighteenth century. The marquise 
dresses with rare elegance, without, 
however, spending as much money on 
her toilets as other women of her rank. 
Coquetry to woman is a duty, even to 
the end. 

In her charming book of thoughts, 
so poetically called Chrysanthemums, 
the marquise says: " Coquetry, in old 
age, is a holy coquetry, for it bids us 
take greater care not to displease than 
youth takes to please." 

All elderly women would do well to 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3°9 

copy the toilet of Madame de Blocque- 
ville, instead of taking their grand- 
daughters as models. 

" The time will come," said the mar- 
quise, "when each woman will dress 
according to her own style, regardless 
of prevailing modes." 

These are the secrets of remaining 
beautiful, and of pleasing to the end. 



OBESITY AND LEANNESS. 

STOUT WOMEN. 

' l y Twixt two extremes \ the golden mean" 

Excessive flesh deforms the human 
body, and causes it to lose all grace. 
A woman sees herself growing stout 
with terror, for then she must bid adieu 
to the ideally beautiful line of her pro- 
file, the delicate outlines of her bust, 
the gracefulness of her figure. 

There are women who have the cour- 
age to follow the severest of treatments 
to save their beauty, and they do well, 
for it is a woman's duty not only to ac- 
quire beauty, but to retain it. 

One day the Empress Elizabeth of 
Austria perceived that her beautifully 



312 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

modeled chin was losing its curve of 
outline, and her waist growing larger. 
She was horrified. Must she lose that 
slenderness which made her appear 
twenty years younger than she really 
was, that proud carriage of a goddess ? 
No, no ; she would do anything to 
remain the most beautiful sovereign 
of Europe, and she, the finest horse- 
woman in the world, renounced riding, 
and took long walks every day, and in 
all kinds of weather. 

A little later on Queen Marguerite 
of Italy was threatened with too much 
embonpoint. She also was unwilling to 
lose her reputation as a pretty woman, 
so she grasped the alpenstock of the 
tourist, and scaled the highest moun- 
tains in her kingdom. 

Before these, Diane de Poitiers 
walked each day, "In order to retain 
her beauty." 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 313 

A woman who is too stout cannot 
take a step without blowing like a 
grampus, without perspiring in tor- 
rents ; she is as clumsy as an elephant ; 
her figure grows thick, her hips become 
enormous, making her look vulgar, 
whatever may be her naturally distin- 
guished appearance. Her cheeks and 
her eyelids, overcharged with fat, make 
a repulsive mass of her face. She loses 
beauty, form, grace. 

I would not paint this portrait, I 
would not dissect the ugliness inflicted 
by obesity, if I did not wish to awaken 
coquetry in women who have allowed 
themselves to grow unwieldy, and if I 
did not know that the evil could be 
remedied by courage and will. 

I have merely held up a mirror, before 
performing the offices of a physician, 
and, if I have been cruel, it was to im- 
press the supreme importance of seek- 



314 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

ing a cure which is within the reach of 
all. 

How to Avoid Obesity. 

Obesity might often be avoided if 
people did not yield to laziness, if 
the mind were kept engaged, if the 
body were exercised, if ease were less 
sought after, long slumbers in eider 
down and resting in easy-chairs avoided. 
Has a stout peasant ever been seen ? 

It is necessary, when there is a 
tendency to obesity, to live with almost 
Spartan frugality. But the evil of glut- 
tony is sometimes stronger than the 
love of coquetry and the desire to 
enjoy good health. And yet the 
poor, who never dine with Lucullus, 
are seldom disfigured with surplus fat. 

Come, then, unfortunate victims of 
obesity, bestir yourselves. Work until 
the perspiration bedews your brow, 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3 T 5 

Be of use in the world. No one has 
the right to be idle. 

Reduce your table. Give up your 
rich food and fattening wines. Sup- 
press one dish to-day, another to-mor- 
row. Spend the money these unnec- 
essary luxuries would cost on some 
poor neighbor. You will be doing a 
charity to two persons, yourself and 
some unfortunate who counts his 
crusts of bread. 

Take this for your motto : " Work 
and frugality," and thus you will save 
yourself. 

How to Grow Thin. 

Physical exercise is recognized as 
one of the great remedies for bringing 
the body back to its just proportions. 
It quickens the respiration and in- 
creases the quantity of oxygen taken 



3 l6 MY LADY'S' DRESSING ROOM. 

into the lungs. Oxygen consumes 
carbon, which is thus prevented from 
beinor converted into fat. You need 
not, therefore, fear fatigue, and should 
arise early in the morning and keep 
about all day ; walk, ride ; rest only at 
night. Never lie down during the day. 
Exercise must be accompanied by 
extreme temperance and a strict diet ; 
that is to say, take no nourishment 
which tends to produce fat, especially 
farinaceous foods (wheat, rye, oatmeal, 
rice, Irish potatoes, sago, etc.), which 
rapidly increase flesh. Compare the 
pullet in its coop with the carnivor- 
ous animal. The enforced inactivity 
of the one results in layers of fat 
on its body ; while the other, left in 
a savage state, knows no idleness or 
excesses in eating, and consequently 
never grows fat. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3*7 

Let those who are beginning to grow 
too stout listen to my cry of warning. 
Renounce the confectioner, give up 
pastries and all sweets. Even bread 
and vegetables must be doled out to 
you sparingly. 

You may eat moderately underdone 
meats, eggs, green vegetables, salads, 
mushrooms, fruits, etc. Control your 
appetite as much as possible. 

Drink but little while eating, and 
weaken your wine with vichy or 
apollinaris, which have the property of 
expelling the gases from the body. 
While dieting is necessary and to 
be commended, I cannot too strongly 
condemn many of the anti-fat nos- 
trums and so-called reduction pills. 
They are drastic compounds and 
powerful purgatives, and should never 
be taken except by a physician's or- 



318 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

ders. In many cases they so reduce 
the patient as to induce heart-failure. 
And the loss of flesh is but tempo- 
rary ; the moment the powerful med- 
icine is withdrawn the flesh returns. 

Discard the idea that coffee will 
make one thin. On the contrary, it 
has a tendency to fatten. It is not 
the quantity of nutritive matter which 
it contains which produces this result, 
but its digestive properties. It facili- 
tates digestion so well, makes it so 
complete, that not one of the nourish- 
ing particles escapes assimilation. All 
that can nourish and fatten is absorbed 
under the influence of this powerful 
stimulant. Tea has the same effect, 
but in a lesser degree. 

Obesity is an enemy to the strength 
of man and the beauty of woman. It 
impedes the respiration, and makes 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3 X 9 

moving about difficult : diminishes the 
strength of the muscles, the energies 
of the nerves, and destroys all sup- 
pleness and activity. 

The most attractive form, the most 
refined face, becomes heavy and unin- 
teresting as the outlines of the features 
are lost in this superfluity of fat. As 
the body becomes overgrown it loses 
that harmony which nature has given 
to this quasi-divine structure of man. 

Lastly, obesity predisposes to apo- 
plexy and dropsy. " Full bodies are 
more subject to sudden death," said 
Hippocrates, "than thin ones." Stout 
people rarely attain to a ripe old age. 

Thin Women. 

Angular lines, and the absence of 
flesh, which allows the bones to pro- 
trude, are misfortunes to women, and 



320 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

besides this, thinness is almost always 
accompanied by a bad complexion. 

Listen to the jests which are made 
concerning thin women : " She is thin 
as a rail." " She is as flat as a shingle." 

It is a mistake to think, as some 
poor dried-up women do, that one 
must be thin to be distinguished 
looking. 

Thinness is sometimes the result of 
an acrid, disagreeable character. I 
mention this because it may be cor- 
rected. The nervous, fretful woman, 
who not only torments herself, but 
others ; who is excitable, impatient, and 
restless, is sure to lose all feminine 
grace. 

Excitability must not be confounded 
with healthful activity, which is advan- 
tageous to beauty, health, and a well 
ordered life. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3 21 

A thin woman has usually a com- 
plexion like lead, or a muddy skin, be- 
cause, as is commonly but justly said, 
" She makes bad blood." {Elle se 
fait du mauvais sang?) 

But if she chooses she may become 
fair, rosy, and well rounded. 

Means for Acquiring Flesh. 

Thinness is often caused by badly 
selected, insufficient nourishment ; or 
by fatigue, either physical or mental, or 
by nervous and bilious temperament, a 
melancholy disposition. " Remember 
that bones and a sweet temper never 
dwell under the same roof." 

" Laugh and grow fat." Retire 
early, rise late, but always at a regular 
hour. Take moderate exercise, when 
the weather permits. Have your meals 
served each day at the same hours. 



$22 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Eat good food, abundantly, but never 
to excess. It should be composed 
principally of farinaceous substances, 
of good quality, easily digested and 
assimilated. The most important are 
bread, soups, tapioca, sago, oatmeal 
gruel* and rice. 

Meat must occupy a secondary 
place in this diet, and must be of good 
quality. The early breakfast should 
be composed of cafe an lait or choco- 
late ; at the second breakfast take a 
glass of old Bordeaux, and a cup of 
black coffee after dinner. Good form 
and good digestion alike forbid the use 
of cream or milk in after-dinner coffee. 
Life must be as calm and devoid of 
excitement as possible, and pleasure 
found at home. Take frequent warm 

* Too much oatmeal is apt to make the complexion 
coarse. — H. H. A. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3 2 3 

baths. Above all, cultivate mildness 
and sweet temper. 

Thus extreme thinness may be rem- 
edied. A slender woman, who has a 
graceful figure, may be attractive ; a 
thin woman is never beautiful. A 
proverb of Arden says : " Beautiful 
skin is not found on bones." 

Concerning ^Esthetics. 

One must be a pretty and agreeable 
woman as well as a good wife and 
mother to keep the husband and father 
fond of his home. It is often possible 
to become pretty and agreeable by tak- 
ing a little pains. Choose for the toilet 
colors which harmonize with the skin 
and hair, and wear well fitting boots 
and gloves, also pretty home gowns, 
with sleeves arranged to show to 
advantage the white and rounded arm. 



3^4 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Indicate the slender waist by a sash, 
instead of wearing formless garments. 
Dress the hair so that it will make a 
becoming frame for the pretty face. 

Instead of this, what does one fre- 
quently see ? Many good women who 
adore their husbands and earnestly de- 
sire to please them, are most careless 
about their dress, choosing often dull 
and unbecoming colors for their gowns, 
and even wearing coarse and ugly 
shoes. They cover their pretty forms 
with ill-shaped garments, and some- 
times even appear in wrappers in 
which the body appears of one size 
from the throat to the feet. It is 
quite possible for a woman to be 
what is termed neatly and yet most 
unbecomingly dressed. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 3 2 5 

Rational Coquetry. 

I insist that a certain amount of 
coquetry is not only allowable, but a 
duty to our husbands. They will love 
us better, more ardently, and longer. 
Is it not worth the trouble ? If we lay 
aside our armor, however pleasant we 
may make home for them, they are 
liable to be lured away by cleverer 
women. They may perhaps remain 
faithful to us, we may still possess 
their respect, but they will cling to 
us from a sense of duty. Duty and 
pleasure should go hand in hand, and 
we should allow no other woman to 
be more charming than ourselves. 
Many women may be more beautiful 
than the wife, but if the latter knows 
how to profit by her natural gifts, 
and adds to this the proper care of 



326 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

her person and her toilet, her husband 
will never perceive the charms of 
others. 

Any blemish of the skin which can 
be remedied should receive immediate 
attention. It will not do to neglect 
this important matter for one moment. 
Venus herself would be repulsive with 
a spotted, blotchy skin. Your own 
happiness and that of your family may 
depend upon it. When I see a woman 
looking slovenly at home, dressed in a 
faded and unbecoming gown, I pro- 
phesy trouble for the future, spite of 
present happiness. All the feminine 
graces should be cultivated for him 
whom we adore, and for him we should 
try to make ourselves beautiful and 
charming. Do not neglect a daily 
walk in the fresh air. Without this 
wholesome exercise it is impossible to 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3 2 7 

retain health and beauty. Use your 
intelligence to remain pretty or to be- 
come so. Add physical to moral and 
intellectual culture. Superintend your 
house and busy yourself with your 
children. This activity of the body, 
the heart, and the mind, is necessary 
to those who desire to remain beautiful 
and beloved. 

Remember that the advice given 
in this book is offered in the hope 
of aiding you in being happy ; there- 
fore do not despise it. 

The Art of Growing Old Gracefully. 

11 Beauty doth varnish age as if new born, 
And gives the crutch the cradle's infancy." 

The way to ward off old age is not 
to fear it, not to allow one's self to be 
crushed by the dread of advancing 
years. 



328 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Use only legitimate preventatives, 
and avoid trying experiments with prep- 
arations not endorsed by physicians. 

Relinquish too youthful toilets, as 
they but add years to the appearance. 
Keep up your interest in the young, 
and do not envy them. Retire with 
dignity from the struggle, and never 
pose as a rival to your own daughters. 
In this way surround your life with 
sweet, true affections, which prevent the 
heart from growing bitter. 

Do not lose interest in the stirring 
events of the day, great discoveries, 
wonderful inventions ; do not fall be- 
hind the times, and do not harp upon 
other and better days. 

To those who come to you for advice 
be kind and sympathetic. 

As you advance in years, preserve 
still more carefully your personal ap- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3 2 9 

pearance, for if you neglect yourself 
ever so slightly the result will be 
more disastrous than if you were 
younger. 

Last of all, your costume should be 
one of great simplicity, unpretentious, 
yet graceful. 

I assure you that under these condi- 
tions you may struggle successfully 
against old age. 

You will still give pleasure to those 
about you, " and keep eternal spring- 
time in thy face." 

Society Women. 

Have you never heard of the Prin- 
cess Z. and the Duchess X., the Mar- 
quise d'Y., etc., etc., of Mme. A., Mme. 
B., Mme. C, as young women, who are 
beautiful and attractive ? 

Suddenly you learn that they are 



33° MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

fifty, sixty years old, but you refuse, 
as do also those who praise and ad- 
mire them, to admit that they can 
have reached the age ascribed to 
them. 

These society women, whose only 
ambition is worldly success and triumph, 
have determined to remain young and 
beautiful, and they have succeeded up 
to a certain point, appearing to be fif- 
teen years younger than the records 
show. 

Not for one moment have they neg- 
lected the cultivation of their beauty, 
and, with an energy worthy of a better 
cause, have endured all things in order 
to fight off the approach of old age, to 
preserve their physical charms intact, 
and to obtain those which can be se- 
cured by pains and study. 

They have bravely struggled against 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 33 1 

the enemies time has brought : illness, 
sorrow, or fatigue. 

Crushed for one moment, they have 
arisen, they have struggled, for to them 
this was a question of life or death. 
From a society standpoint it has re- 
solved itself into the query of "to be 
or not to be." 

They have succeeded in conquering 
Time and Nature. 

Without imitating them too closely, 
which is not always compatible with the 
life led by an honest and conscientious 
mother of a family, it is not only proper, 
but your duty to use all lawful means 
to stop the onward march of old age 
and ugliness. This will be easier for 
you than for the butterflies of fashion. 
The wholesome activity in which your 
days are spent is favorable to you, 
whereas worldly people are constantly 



33 2 MY LAD Y'S DRESSING ROOM. 

obliged to repair the exhausting fa- 
tigues of their lives of pleasure and 
restlessness. 

They have sought the satisfaction of 
self-love and of vanity. Your object 
has been to remain the fairy of the 
hearthstone, the joy of him to whom 
you have devoted your existence. 

Art of Appearing always Young. 

As a charming old lady once said, 
" To remain always young one must 
be always amiable." 

A melancholy face, a sullen, an evil 
look, is like coming in contact with 
winter; whereas a serene face, a gra- 
cious air, a kind and good expression, 
is like a spring day, and a smile on the 
lips like its sunshine. 

Sulky people, you may have re- 
marked, always appear to be ten years 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 333 

older than they really are. The face 
grows wrinkled from contracting the 
brows ; the mouth projects disagree- 
ably when sulking. 

Behold beside the portrait of the 
sullen woman the picture of a sweet 
and gracious woman : all her features 
are in repose, her lips form an adorable 
Cupid's bow, kindness softens her 
glance, and goodness illuminates her 
brow. 

Perhaps she is the elder, but she 
will always appear young and charm- 
ing. 

Grace of Movement. 

To be graceful, harmony must gov- 
ern our movements. 

The planets move harmoniously ; 
were they to break the law of number 
and harmony, frightful discord would 



334 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

be the result in the universe. Disso- 
nance destroys harmony in music and 
is painful to the ear. It would be easy 
to mutiply examples to prove that har- 
mony governs, or should govern all 
things, from the march of the stars 
down to the gestures of the lowest 
form of human life. There are 
women who possess in a superior de- 
gree the intuition of harmony. I 
know some who select unconsciously 
their seats, their poses, according to 
the toilets which they wear. Dressed 
in a simple costume they lean against 
a piece of furniture of severe style, or 
sit erect upon an oaken chair, which is 
in perfect harmony with the appear- 
ance they present in their tailor- 
made gowns. In the evening, robed 
in silks and laces, they as naturally se- 
lect luxurious sofas, ottomans, and 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 335 

easy-chairs, which are in perfect ac- 
cord with their costumes. 

This is not possible for the stiff, an- 
gular woman, whose movements are 
brusque and awkward. 

Those who know how to walk 
and carry themselves possess equilib- 
rium. Perhaps this gift of nature 
has never been lost by acquiring bad 
habits, or they have re-conquered it by 
means of study. This is the case with 
great actresses. Look at them as they 
walk on to the stage ; at the same time 
that the feet move, their weight is 
thrown on the hips, and the body is 
thus left in equilibrium. Whatever 
movement they make is correct, be- 
cause they know the law of harmony. 
When the actress bows, she bends her 
body and raises it by the same even, 
gentle movement. 



33 6 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

You will never see her stretch her 
arm out straight, making a horizontal 
line in the first movement. If her arm 
is to be extended, this is only attained 
at the second movement. It is lifted, 
then stretched out. If it were 

straightened at the first movement, 
the woman would look like a jointed 
doll. We will give a few hints as to 
how this science of gracefulness can be 
cultivated, a gracefulness which is not 
artificial, as might be supposed, for it 
rests on a natural principle. 

How to Walk. 

If you are inclined to stoop, walk 
to and fro with your hands behind 
your back when you are alone 
in the garden, or in your apart- 
ment. 

Children should be taught to throw 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 337 

their shoulders back, by being made to 
walk with elbows close to the body. 
This will naturally keep the chin free, 
and the chest thrown forward. The 
back will curve in ; the shoulder blades 
be kept in their places instead of pro- 
jecting ; the bust will arch itself ; and 
the entire weight of the body be 
thrown on the hips, which is necessary 
for a perfect equilibrium. 

One should practice touching the 
ground first with the ball of the foot, 
to avoid walking on the heels with 
toes in the air, which is ugly, clumsy 
and ungraceful, exposing the whole 
system to the useless jolting Nature 
tried to spare us when she formed 
the ball of the foot. 

When mounting a stairway or 
climbing a hill, for the sake of the 
lungs as well as to obtain a graceful 



33% MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

carriage, both back and head should be 
held erect. 

Women who have learned how to 
walk, or who walk naturally, according 
to these principles, like the goddesses 
of old, will not crush the flowers on 
which they tread. 

Grace of Form. 

To retain your graceful form, then, 
learn how to carry yourself. If women 
would be more careful about this while 
young, they would have finer figures 
and more slender hips when older. 
The woman who holds herself straight, 
who does not draw her chin to the 
collar of her garment, who keeps back 
her shoulder blades, and thus rounds 
out her breast, without an apparent 
effort keeps her muscles firm and flexi- 
ble and the desired curve in place of 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 339 

flatness. Thus the heaviness which is 
so much dreaded, and which destroys 
all youthfulness and grace, may be 
avoided. 

The woman who holds herself well, 
who throws the weight of her body on 
her hips (this cannot be too often re- 
peated) instead of allowing it to be sup- 
ported by the abdomen, has the carriage 
of a queen, the walk of a nymgh. Do not 
fear that you will acquire a haughty ex- 
pression. On the contrary, if your 
eyes are tender and your smile is ami- 
able, your proud grace will not make 
you unsympathetic. 

I do not mean by this that you 
should carry your head like a vain 
peacock, or stiffen yourself, or strut ; 
but hold the bust in the firm and 
straight position which nature de- 
signed, whether you walk, or sit, or 



340 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

stand, so that you may not look like 
a bundle, but keep your body in its 
proper position. 

By following this advice you will 
stoop or lean with a thousand times 
more grace and flexibility than a woman 
who relaxes, bends, rounds her back 
from a mere habit of indifference. 
Nature always punishes us for dis- 
obedience to her laws. It is her will 
that the human race should keep the 
body which she has sculptured erect, 
with uplifted gaze. If you allow your- 
self to be drawn down to the earth, you 
will lose the beauty of your form. 

Advice to Stout Women. 

A stout woman should not wear a 
tailor-made suit. It defines the body 
too distinctly, and accentuates every 
pound of flesh. She should avoid 



MY LADY'S DRESSIXG ROOM. 34* 

wearing large bows and rosettes at her 
belt, either in front or behind ; these 
ornaments simply increase her size. 

She should not wear very short 
sleeves, as an arm which is fat at 
the shoulder sometimes unpleasantly 
reminds one of a ham or a leg of 
mutton. 

A ruche at the neck is not at all 
becoming to her, nor a high or tight 
collar. The bodice may be opened 
slightly at the throat. A feather boa 
may be worn without disfiguring the 
wearer. 

Short basques exaggerate the size. 
The hair dressed low is unbecoming 
to very stout women. It should 
be worn high on top of the head, 
without twisting. Bandeaux, if worn, 
should not be strained, or plastered. 
Without being untidy, the hair should 



342 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

be loosely dressed, and oils and pom- 
atums should be avoided. 

Large figure designs must be ex r 
eluded from the stout woman's toilet. 
Striped and plain goods, and seed pat- 
terns in two shades of the same color, 
may be worn. She should wear few 
jewels, never pearls around the neck, 
no earrings, and only a few well- 
chosen rings. 

Sleeves with high shoulders made 
close at the wrist are most unbecom- 
ing to her. She should never wear 
tight gloves. 

Good Taste in Di'essing. 

It is certain that the question of 
dress is one of importance, and the 
woman who affects indifference to it 
lacks judgment. 

A woman who dresses badly loses 



MY LADY'S DRESSIXG ROOM. 343 

half her opportunities, that is, if the 
defects in her toilet are the result of 
her indifference on the subject. Mme. 
de Maintenon asserted that good taste 
indicated crood sense. 

It was also she who justly blamed 
women for overtrimming heavy stuffs, 
and wearing ill-chosen ornaments. 
Nothing- can be more ridiculous than 
ornaments out of place. A gown of 
cheap material, if well made, is often 
pretty, though simple and unpreten- 
tious. 

Short, stout women should never 
wear gowns of rough, shaggy materials. 
Skirts made of them fall in stiff and 
ungraceful folds, and the bodies are 
equally unbecoming. 

Dress fabrics in woolen goods should 
always be soft to the eye and to the 
touch. China crepes, colored silks of 



344 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

medium weight, make charming cos- 
tumes, and are to be preferred to the 
stiff silks ; but a black silk gown 
should be of good quality, as an in- 
ferior grade does not wear well, and 
soon grows shabby. 

Beautiful feathers are durable and 
graceful ornaments for bonnets ; cheap 
ones are poor economy. Low priced 
finery is not worth buying. One should 
never economize in this way. It is 
never wise to buy one article of dress 
noticeably richer than the rest of 
the wardrobe. For example, a velvet 
dress is serviceable, but unless one can 
afford other costumes as elegant, it is 
out of place. 

Mixed cotton and wool goods are 
usually almost worthless. One all 
woolen gown is worth two of them. 

Pale blue is apt to make blondes look 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 345 

ashen. Dark blue, on the contrary, is 
very becoming to them, and a blue 
velvet gown brings out all their deli- 
cate coloring. Neutral tints are very 
unbecoming to them. Brunettes with 
an inclination to be sallow will do well 
to avoid blue, as it makes them appear 
greenish or tawny. Green is trying to 
them unless they are very fair. It 
suits blondes perfectly, especially those 
who have color. 

Pale brunettes should affect shades 
of red, which increase their beauty. 
Crimson may be worn by blondes. 
Yellow is a superb contrast for a pale 
brunette, especially under artificial 
light, when it is more subdued than 
in the sun light. This color soft- 
ens an olive skin, and borrows from 
it a creamy tint, harmonizing wonder- 
fully well with dark hair and brill- 



346 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

iant eyes. Despite all that may be 
said, yellow is unbecoming to most 
blondes. 

Only women with beautiful shoulders 
and arms should wear decollete oowns. 
Bony necks and arms are certainly not 
agreeable to the eye, and it is wise to 
conceal them. But, you will ask, how 
can one go to dinner, opera, or ball in a 
high gown ? The bodice may be cut 
low, and the neck and arms covered 
with tulle or lace. The freshness of a 
toilet is one of its chief merits, and a 
new gown should never be worn in the 
rain and mud. A rainy-day costume is 
a necessity. Elegant garments should 
be reserved for visiting and other 
occasions requiring richness of toilet. 

It is absurd to have too many toilets 
for one season. Everyone knows how 
often fashions change, and that even a 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 347 

last year's gown sometimes appears 
almost ridiculous. 

A neat suitable morning dress is 
necessary. Besides this one should 
have a gown for afternoons at home, 
a simple street gown, and a visiting 
costume. This is the minimum of a 
feminine wardrobe. A clever woman 
with good taste can at small expense 
convert her old evening toilets into 
such as are suitable for home wear. 
There is no need for me to describe to 
rich women the costumes for church, 
weddings, dinners, operas, parties, 
concerts, balls, etc., and all their ac- 
cessories. 

I may add that diamond earrings 
are no longer considered good form. 
Jewels should be worn very sparingly 
excepting in the evening. Never wear 
ornaments of any kind over the gloves. 



34 8 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

A bracelet is quite as outr£ worn out- 
side the glove as a ring ; a diamond 
tiara over the bonnet would not be in 
worse taste or more absurd. Precious 
stones, notably diamonds, worn with a 
walking costume, proclaim the vulga- 
rian. 



GENERAL ADVICE. 

MAKING UP. 

I dare not hope that my advice will 
have sufficient weight with all my 
readers to induce them to give up the 
deplorable and disfiguring habit of 
painting themselves, a habit which as 
seriously detracts from matronly dig- 
nity, as it compromises beauty and 
youth. 

To those who persist, despite my 
advice^ in making up their faces, I will 
here suggest where to place the paint 
on the cheek, according to the usage 
of the eighteenth century. 

It should be applied in straight lines, 
2,s near as possible to the eyes, as this 

349 



35° MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

layer of carmine increases their bril- 
liancy ; the other three inferior coatings 
should be gracefully rounded at an 
absolutely equal distance from the nose 
and ears, and never extend below the 
mouth.* 

During the last century, when rouge 
w T as a part of etiquette, and the indica- 
tion of a certain rank among women, 
the court ladies, in all seriousness, 
studied the art of coloring their cheeks 
in the most aristocratic manner. 

They would have been far prettier 
still, those charming women, if they 
had been content to keep the natural 
and delicate coloring of their hedge 
rose. 

As for enameling ! The enameled 
woman must neither smile nor weep 
for fear of cracking the ghastly mask. 

* This may be called the opera-bouffe method, and is not 
to be recommended. — H, H f A, 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 35 x 

Her porcelain face is cold and expres- 
sionless, and her complexion livid in 
the daytime. 

And whitewashes ! They are even 
more fatal to the complexion than car- 
mine. In the name of reason and of 
good taste, I proscribe them in the 
dressing room. A resemblance to Pier- 
rot, the clown, is certainly undesirable. 

Various Hair Dyes. 

I recommend the following harmless 
dyes to women who object to white 
hair. Blond hair when turning gray 
sometimes becomes muddy in color. 
Strong tea will change it to a 
light brown. A dye for blond hair 
may also be made of a strong decoc- 
tion of brown and oily chicory, which 
is sold in the form of a sea biscuit in 
the north of Europe. 



35 2 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Steep iron nails for fifteen days in 
tea, and you will have a dark dye. 

When the hair of the Romans began 
to grow gray they dyed it in a decoc- 
tion of walnut. The Persians dyed 
their hair by using henna daily. The 
leaves of the henna were reduced to 
powder, and made into a kind of paste 
with water. This was applied to the 
hair, which was washed two hours after 
the application, when it became a red- 
dish brown, old mahogany. The wash 
applied again the next morning, with 
indigo added to the henna, produced a 
superb black, like the raven's wing. 

But I repeat, all anodyne dyes are 
injurious to the hair, making it stiff, 
rough and dry. 

Dyes made with a base of lead or 
silver are extremely dangerous. They 
pot only produce baldness, which, alas ! 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 353 

is very common among women in our 
day, but cause brain trouble and loss 
of sight, and it seems incredible that a 
woman will thus endanger -not only 
her crown of glory, but her most pre- 
cious sense. Turkish women use a 
dye which is less dangerous than ours, 
composed of the soot of incense and 
mastic rubbed into an odorless oil. 

The Greeks have another process 
which I will describe. It is also less 
dangerous than many others. 

Take sulphate of iron, ten grammes, 
and Welsh nuts, fifty grammes. Boil 
the Welsh nuts in three hundred 
grammes of water, and strain through 
a cloth. Add the water of the sulphate 
of iron, and boil again, until reduced 
to about two-thirds. Perfume and keep 
in bottles well corked. Apply several 
times with a fine camel's hair brush. 



354 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Remedies for Softening and Strengthen- 
ing the Skin. 

Many of the most widely advertised 
remedies for softening and strengthen- 
ing the skin are worse than useless, 
and are most injurious in their effects, 
Heroic treatment of the delicate cuticle 
is neither logical nor to be desired. 

Bathing in cold water and friction 
strengthen the tissues. The stinging 
sensation of cold water excites the 
circulation, which is a benefit to the 
skin. The roughness of skin will 
sometimes disappear by friction. 
Rubbing the arms with a hair glove 
often takes off the down, or at least 
keeps it on a level with the skin, where 
it is invisible. 

A rough and dry skin may be rubbed 
to advantage with an emollient. A 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 355 

flaccid skin is sometimes improved by 
friction with the essence of pimpernel 
mixed with the essence of rose. 

During and After Nursing. 

Do not believe those who tell you 
that your breast will lose its beauty 
and firmness if you perform the sacred 
duty of maternity in nursing your 
child. 

During this period, you need for the 
child, as well as for yourself, a whole- 
some, sufficiently abundant and well 
selected diet. Afterward you should 
continue this regime for a certain time, 
and under its influence your breast will 
soon return to its natural roundness 
and firmness. 

Even while nursing you may wear a 
corset, which will prevent the heavy 
veins of the breast from distending. 



35 6 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Nourish your child from your own 
breast. Be sure, that for having sub- 
mitted with joy to the law of nature, 
you will remain none the less beautiful 
and young. The milk which swells 
the breast should flow into the mouth 
of the infant. If, while confiding your 
own flesh and blood to a stranger, you 
compel the unused liquid to be re- 
absorbed, you may expect any amount 
of pain and discomfort and the ulti- 
mate loss of all form and beauty of the 
breast ; and this is but just, since you 
have refused to perform the sweet task 
for which it was destined. 



SCENTED WATERS, CONCEN- 
TRATED ODORS, POMADES. 

Scented Waters. 

" Culling from every flower 
Their virtuous sweets." 

Only very delicate and carefully 
prepared waters and toilet vinegars 
should be used on the face and hands. 
Fortunately there are many of these to 
be had. Bouquet Katherine is the 
queen of scented waters and the reign- 
ing favorite at present both in Europe 
and America. Such waters may be 
usefully applied to other parts of the 
body, having the properties of a tonic 
for the skin. 

I give four recipes for cologne : 

357 



35 8 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

First. Alcohol at 30 , 1 quart ; 
essence of lemon, 6 grammes ; essence 
of bergamot, 6 grammes ; essence of 
cedra, 3 grammes ; essence of lavender, 
1 gramme, 50 centigrammes ; essence of 
neroli, o gramme, 50 centigrammes ; 
essence of rose, 2 drops. Stir the 
mixture well, filter and bottle. 

Second. Essence of lemon, 10 
grammes ; essence of cedra, 10 
grammes ; essence of bergamot, 10 
grammes ; essence of fine lavender, 
10 grammes ; essence of cloves, 10 
grammes ; essence of rosemary, 4 
grammes ; essence of thyme, 2 
grammes ; rectified alcohol, 2 quarts. 
Mix the essences with alcohol, and 
filter through paper. 

Third. Essence of cedra, 6 grammes : 
essence of bergamot, 6 grammes; 
essence of neroli, 1 gramme ; essence 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 359 

of lavender, i gramme, 50 centi- 
grammes ; essence of rosemary, 1 
gramme, 50 centigrammes ; essence of 
cloves, o gramme, .08 centigramme ; 
essence of Chinese cinnamon, o 
gramme, .08 centigramme ; tincture 
of musk amber, 1 gramme, 20 centi- 
grammes ; tincture benzoin, 6 grammes ; 
alcohol at 90 , 1 quart. Dissolve 
essences in alcohol, filter well. 

Fourth. Essence of bergamot, 10 
grammes ; essence of orange, 10 
grammes ; essence of lemon, 5 
grammes ; essence of cedra, 3 grammes ; 
essence of rosemary, 1 gramme ; 
tincture amber, 5 grammes ; tincture 
benzoin, 5 grammes ; alcohol at 90 , 1 
quart. The alcohol should always be 
very pure. Filtering is indispensable. 
Cologne improves with age. 

The establishment of jean Farina 



360 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

keeps it in barrels made of Cedar of 
Lebanon. Cedar preserves admirably 
all perfumes, and does not communi- 
cate its own odor. 

Lavender water can also be pre- 
pared at home. It requires : Es- 
sential oil, 1 5 grammes; musk, 2\ centi- 
grammes ; spirits of wine, 1 pint. 
Put the three substances in a quart 
bottle and shake long and thor- 
oughly. Leave it alone for a few 
days, shake again, empty into small 
vials, which must then be hermetically 
sealed. 

Or else : Essence of superfine 
lavender, 30 grammes ; good brandy, 1 
quart. One coffeespoonful in a glass 
of water for toilet use. 

The formula is the same for rose- 
mary, with the difference that the 
thirty grammes of essential oil of 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 361 

lavender are replaced by the same 
quantity of essential oil of rosemary. 

I do not wish to speak of rosemary 
without revealing its virtues. Accord- 
ing to some persons it is believed that 
the woman who uses it constantly, as a 
perfume and toilet water, preserves 
eternal youth. I cannot prove this. 
It is certain that the rosemary belongs 
to the family of labiates, and that 
these plants are reputed to be tonics 
and restoratives. 

The pink has antiseptic qualities 
which recommend it still more highly 
for the uses of the body. With its 
flowers one can prepare an excellent 
toilet water, of delicious perfume : 
Petals of pinks, 200 grammes ; alcohol 
at 90 , 1 gramme. Let the petals in- 
fuse in alcohol for ten days. After 
this time, filter through paper, and 



3^2 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

add a hundred grammes of tincture 
benzoin. 

N. B. — In your preparations never 
use whisky or wood-alcohol. 

Toilet Vinegars. 

Under the name of vinegar dis- 
honest tradesmen sell acetic acid. 
This is dangerous to the skin, which 
it dries, corrodes, and predisposes to 
wrinkles. Use cologne, ioo grammes; 
tincture of benzoin, 20 grammes ; 
good Orleans natural vinegar, 1 quart. 
Put the cologne and the tincture into 
a large bottle or jug, then add the 
vinegar. Let them stand for fifteen 
days, shaking the bottle every morning. 
Filter afterward through paper. Pre- 
pared filters are found at the druggists. 

Although the vinegars for which 
we give recipes are not open to the 



MY LADY'S DRESSIXG ROOM. 3 6 5 

same objections as those sold by un- 
trustworthy druggists, they should not 
be used too lavishly. A few drops in 
a sufficient quantity of water refresh 
the skin. The best toilet vinegar 
made for sale is the Russian Aro- 
matic Vinegar. 

Put no faith in the white vinegars 
for any of your preparations. 

Here is the formula of a medicinal 
vinegar, good for redness of skin and 
sores which may appear on the body : 
Balm-mint, 2j grammes; spirits of 
mint, 25 grammes; spirits of sage, 25 
grammes ; spirits of rosemary, 25 
grammes ; spirits of lavender, 25 
grammes ; Orleans vinegar, 2 quarts. 

Lavender vinegar is very easy to 
prepare: Rose water, 25 grammes; 
spirits of lavender, 50 grammes ; 
Orleans vinegar, 75 grammes. 



364 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Aromatic vinegar is very cheap if 
one personally gathers the plants : 
tops of dry absinthe, 40 grammes ; 
rosemary, 40 grammes ; sage, 40 
grammes ; mint, 40 grammes ; garden 
rue, 40 grammes; cinnamon bark, 5 
grammes ; cloves, 5 grammes ; nutmeg, 
5 grammes. Let the mixture infuse 
for fifteen days in one pint of alcohol, 
then add two quarts of wine vinegar. 
Filter through paper. 

During the flower season, delicious 
vinegars can be prepared which cost 
nothing save the vinegar. 

Good Orleans vinegar, 1 quart ; 
roses of provins, 50 grammes ; hundred- 
leaves roses, 50 grammes ; jasmin 
flowers, 20 grammes ; flowers of fairy 
queen, 25 grammes ; flowers of melilot, 
25 grammes ; leaves of citronelle, 20 
grammes. If dried flowers are used 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3 6 5 

instead of fresh, three pints of vinegar 
are necessary. Let it infuse for one 
month, and then filter. 

Rose vinegar : Dry petals of red 
roses, ioo grammes ; Orleans vinegar, 
i quart. Eight days of steeping will 
be sufficient, but the bottle must be 
shaken from time to time. It should 
have a large mouth in order to fill it 
easily. Strain by pressure. Allow it 
to stand about two days, then filter. 

All vinegars made of flowers consist 
of one hundred grammes of petals, or 
of whole flowers, and one quart of 
vinegar. 

Virginal milk : Powder of benzoin, 
50 grammes ; alcohol at 90 , 1 pint ; 
good Orleans vinegar, 1 pint. Put the 
ingredients in a bottle, and shake 
each morning. After fifteen days of 
macerations, filter through paper. 



366 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 

N. B. — Pulverize the powder of ben- 
zoin thoroughly with a small quantity 
of alcohol and vinegar, so that the 
liquid may be clear, then add the rest 
of the liquid, stirring continually, and 
pour into a bottle. 

Concentrated Odors. — Ancient Use 
of Perfumes. 

Perfumes were highly esteemed 
amongst the ancients. In the coun- 
try of the Pharoahs, their use was 
carried to excess. The bodies, cloth- 
ing, tombs, and houses were impreg- 
nated with perfumes more or less 
agreeable. On feast days perfumed 
waters were poured into the streams. 

Did not even the Shunamite plunge 
her fingers into precious myrrh before 
running to meet her spouse? The 
Bible is full of allusions to spikenard 



MY LADY'S DRESSIXG ROOM. 367 

and myrrh. The East preserves this 
love of perfumes. 

The Greeks had a certain perfume 
for each part of the body : Marjoram 
for the hair, apple for the hands, wild 
thyme for the neck and knees, etc. 
They highly esteemed the waters 
made of the leaves of vines. This 
mixture of odors could not have been 
very agreeable. 

The ancients invented the pulver- 
izer. Leaders of fashion in Athens con- 
ceived the idea of freeing doves which 
had been bathed in sweet scented 
waters over the festal board, that the 
guests might be sprinkled with per- 
fumes from their wings. 

In Rome the slaves filled their 
mouths with perfumed waters and 
blew them in sprays on the hair of the 
mistress. In more modern times the 



368 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

perfume was sprayed through an atom- 
izer. The Romans in particular 
carried the custom of perfuming and 
living in the midst of strong odors to 
such an extent, that Plautus ex- 
claimed, u By Pollux ! The only 
woman who smells delightfully is the 
one who doesn't smell of anything ! " 
Amber and vervain were the favorite 
perfumes during the latter part of the 
Middle Ages. In the 13th century 
women laid away their garments with 
a certain kind of apple which had a de- 
licious odor. The favorites of Henry 
III. reveled in neroli and frangi- 
panni. La belle Gabrielle, who re- 
proached her lover for eating garlic, 
preferred orris and orange flower. 
Anne of Austria had all her creams 
and cosmetics perfumed with vanilla. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 369 

La Pompadour affected the odors of 
rose and jasmine. 

Choice of Odors. 

From a hygienic standpoint sweet 
odors may be approved of on account of 
their stimulating and refreshing quali- 
ties. Both health and good taste for- 
bid that they should ever be abused. 
They are not without influence on the 
temperature and on beauty, especially 
lavender, lemon, rose, violets, and 
lilies. It is asserted that they also 
influence the moral nature. The rose 
predisposes to delicacy of feeling ; 
geranium to tenderness ; lilies to 
reverie ; dark violets to piety ; while 
the white assist digestion. It is said 
that the woman who loves vervain 
should cultivate the aesthetic, for her 



37° MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

artistic nature is revealed in this 
choice. 

Without carrying the use of per- 
fumes to excess, it is well to select 
some delicate and light odor. Every 
woman should repudiate a mixture of 
odors. She should select her favorite, 
and remain true to it. All that be- 
longs to her, her books, her stationery, 
her apartment, the cushions of her car- 
riage (in the 18th century they were 
stuffed with odorous herbs), her cloth- 
ing, the least article which she handles, 
should exhale the same perfume. A 
great lady once wrote : " The devil may 
smell of sulphur, I shall smell of orris/ 9 

Some people in love with the last 
century select the Peau d'Espagne. 

Russian leather is sometimes con- 
sidered a perfume. There are women 
who are content with the delicate odors 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 37 1 

communicated from their rosewood 
wardrobes. Others perfume them- 
selves with flowers and herbs according 
to the season. They begin with violet, 
rose, mignonette, etc., with which they 
fill their bureau drawers, their pockets 
(when their gowns are not in use), 
sachets, etc., etc. The odors from 
these fresh flowers or herbs, which 
fade and die in the wardrobes, are per- 
haps fleeting, but extremely agreeable. 
These women prepare for winter use 
the flowers of Melusina, queen of the 
meadows, and asperules dried in the 
shade. They simply inclose them in 
little muslin bags, and put them into 
every nook and corner. They sug- 
gest the odors of the prairies in 
blossom. Our ancestors preferred a 
bouquet of odors. They themselves 
prepared their sachets. We give the 



37* MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

recipes that those who love a mix- 
ture of odors may also be gratified. 

ist. Dried leaves of roses and orris, 
1500 grammes; powdered bergamot 
peel, 250 grammes ; cloves and cinna- 
mon, 150 grammes; orange flowers 
and clusters of dry acacia, 250 grammes ; 
powdered starch, 1500 grammes. 

2d. Orange powder, 500 grammes ; 
lavender powder, 50 grammes ; ben- 
zoin powder, 25 grammes; sandal cit- 
ron powder, 25 grammes ; orange 
peel powder, 25 grammes ; tonka bean 
powder, 10 grammes ; clove powder, 
10 grammes ; cinnamon powder, 10 
grammes. 

Mix thoroughly. It is not necessary 
that the powder be very finely pulver- 
ized. If not found at the shops it is 
easy to pulverize it at home. 

3d. Florentine orris, pulverized, 750 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 373 

grammes; rosewood, 165 grammes; 
calamus, 250 grammes; sandal citron, 
125 grammes; benzoin, 155 grammes; 
cloves, 115 grammes; cinnamon, 31 
grammes. 

The modern perfumer, by the assist- 
ance of chemistry, has discovered some 
delicious odors, from which it is easy 
to make an excellent choice. A woman 
of taste always rejects strong or pene- 
trating odors. Her selection is sweet 
delicate, light ; it charms but never 
offends. 

Sachets. 

Sachets are easily prepared. It is 
only necessary to powder sheets of 
wadding generously with the perfume 
selected. These squares are sewed 
between two pieces of Florence silk 
and edged with lace, or the powder may 
be inclosed in little sacks of percaline 



374 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

or thin silk, and the bag tied with a 
narrow ribbon. Sachets for gloves, 
laces, handkerchiefs, and silk stockings, 
are as easily made as those for ward- 
robes, bureau drawers, and jewel cask- 
ets. It is only necessary to cut them 
the proper size. Large squares of 
wadded silk may be fastened with rib- 
bons. Many women of taste have 
sachets made to fit the drawers of the 
dressing-table, bureau, closet walls, etc. 
They are of delicate shades of silk or 
satin, wadded, perfumed, and tufted 
with knots of ribbon. 

Thus a delicate perfume is exhaled 
everywhere. In the wardrobes and 
clothes-presses, skirt sachets are hung 
in the skirts. Tiny sachets are man- 
ufactured for bonnets, sleeves of gowns, 
corsets, each woman confining herself 
to her favorite perfume. A delicate 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 375 

odor precedes her approach. Before 
recognizing her writing, the odor of 
the paper betrays the writer. If she 
loans a book, its perfume recalls the 
lender and reminds us that it should 
be returned — or pursues us like a re- 
morse. 

Cold Cream. 

Oil of sweet almonds, 50 grammes ; 
white wax, 10 grammes ; sperm oil, 10 
grammes ; mix these substances well 
together, and add rose water, 20 
grammes ; tincture of benzoin, 5 
grammes ; tincture amber, 2 grammes. 

It may be well to mention that wax 
and sperm should be melted in a 
double boiler (Puritan Cooker) to be- 
come incorporated with the oil. 



37 6 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 

Cucumber Cream. 

Cut in small pieces one pound of 
peeled cucumbers from which the 
seeds have been taken. Add as much 
of the pulp of melon cut in the same 
way. Add one pound of pure lard 
and half pint of milk. Heat in a 
double boiler for ten hours, without 
coming to a boil. Strain the mixture 
through a cloth over a sieve ; allow it 
to drip and congeal. Wash the poma- 
tum until the water is colorless. 
Squeeze well into a bag and keep in 
small jars. 

Another recipe : Axonge, five hun- 
dred grammes ; cucumber juice, fifteen 
hundred grammes ; mix five hundred 
grammes of juice with the whole of the 
axonge, which must be first softened. 
When the two substances have been 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 377 

beaten together for two hours let it 
stand until next day, then strain off the 
juice, and put five hundred grammes 
of it into the lard. Repeat three 
times in order to exhaust what remains 
of the juice. Melt the pomatum in a 
bainmarie on a slow fire for five or six 
hours to evaporate the water which 
remains in the oil. It should be turned 
frequently to accomplish this result. 
Beat up the pomatum to make it light 
and oily, and then put it in jars. 

Glycerine. 

All skins, as we have said, will not 
bear the use of glycerine. If it 
makes the skin red it should not be 
used. 

Even when it suits the skin it should 
never be used pure.* 

* The strong affinity of glycerine for water has made it 
often most annoying as a healing factor. The first sensa- 



37 S MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM 

Soaps. 

Soap is necessary, but care should be 
taken to rinse the face afterward in 
soft warm water ; use only pure soap. 
The strong prefumes given soaps are 
too often only a mask for the impuri- 
ties they contain. The colors used in 
soaps (especially rose and green) are 
dangerous to health and skin. A pure 
soap should be of a light mastic color 
and not transparent. 

tion produced by an application of glycerine to the tongue 
is one of burning, almost painful, notwithstanding its 
sweetness. This burning is caused by the absorption of 
all moisture from the surface which the glycerine touches, 
thus drying and parching the nerves. Many women, espe- 
cially mothers and nurses in charge of infants, are ignorant 
of this fact, and apply pure glycerine to the tender chafed 
skin of delicate babies, producing intense pain, which they 
often attempt to allay by a second application, with only 
aggravated results. If you have naturally a very moist skin 
glycerine will not give you this burning sensation. If, on 
the contrary, your skin is parched and dry, you should not 
use it. — H, H. A, 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 379 

Rice Powder. 

The rice powder which is sold in the 
trade is often injurious to the skin. 
If one could prepare it, it would not 
only be harmless but excellent for use. 

Fill a new earthen jar with six 
quarts of water and one kilogramme 
of rice. Let it soak for twenty-four 
hours, then bottle. During three con- 
secutive days, put in six more quarts 
of water each day. Let the rice drip 
on a new hair sieve which must be 
used only for this purpose. Then ex- 
pose to the air, protected from dust, 
on a towel which has been washed in 
lye. As soon as it is dry, it must 
be ground very fine in a clean and 
covered marble mortar. Lastly, sift 
through a fine white cloth into the jar. 
Tie the cloth around the mouth of the 



380 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

jar with a tape, and let it sag in order 
not to lose any of the powder. The 
jar should have a tight cover. 

It is best not to perfume this 
powder. 

When the powder gives out and 
cannot be immediately replaced, use, 
instead, the flour of oatmeal, which 
can be taken up in small quantities on 
the puff. 

If you must purchase rice powder, 
take care not to select that which is 
highly perfumed, if the skin is easily 
affected or irritated. Never leave 
powder puffs uncovered. They should 
be kept in very clean porcelain or 
china boxes. 

How to perfume soaps. 

Home-made soaps may be perfumed 
with fine essential oils. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3 Sl 

As soon as the mixture is taken from 
the fire and before placing in molds, 
stir in the perfume, mixing thoroughly. 

A delicious perfume for soap is the 
juice of raspberries. 

For jasmine soap, the perfume of 
this flower is added. Oil of rose is 
also very good for this purpose. 



PART FOURTH. 



PART FOURTH. 

JEWELS, CHIFFONS, AND 
LACES. 

ADVICE ON SMALL MATTERS. 

Care of Jewels. 

Pearls. — Pearls are kept from dying 
or tarnishing by shutting them up with 
a piece of ash wood. Let scientific 
people laugh at this recipe if they will ; 
have faith in the tradition which has 
been handed from generation to gen- 
eration in old families. Thanks to 
this precaution, pearls will never tar- 
nish. This is important to know if 
one possesses stones of large size and 
brilliancy, and which may become 

tarnished in the course of time. 

385 



3%6 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Pearls are easily stained, therefore 
when buying colored ones it is well 
to be accompanied by a connoisseur. 
The lovely Eastern pink pearl strikes 
the most superficial observer with ad- 
miration. 

The pink pearl, mounted with white 
pearls and brilliants, forms the most ex- 
quisite ornament conceivable. 

The rose pearl of the Bahamas has 
at first sight a coral tint, but its color 
is more delicate. It shines and has 
charming iridescent lights. 

The value of a pearl depends upon 
its form, its smoothness, its size, and 
its tint. When round, it is called a 
button. Irregular, it is called baroque. 

Anyone who possesses a single row 
of pearls as large as wild cherries may 
perhaps be glad to know that in the 
seventeenth century this string of pearls 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3 8 7 

was called " l'esclavage de perles," 
and that a locket of brilliants sus- 
pended from it was called " boute-en- 
train." 

It is said of pearls that they presage 
tears. But the working woman who 
never has owned one surely weeps as 
much as the duchess whose jewel 
cases overflow with this loveliest as 
well as most beautiful of jewels. 

Diamonds. — Diamonds should be 
carefully brushed with soapsuds and 
rinsed in cologne water. When 
shaken in a small sack of bran they 
acquire great brilliancy. 

To discover if a diamond is genuine, 
puncture a bit of cardboard with a 
needle. Look through the diamond at 
the card. If the stone is false you will 
perceive two holes on the card. If 
the stone is genuine, only one hole 



3§8 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

will be seen. Or else place the finger 
behind the gem and look through the 
stone with a magnifying glass. The 
grain of the surface will be perfectly 
visible if the diamond is false. It can- 
not be perceived in the genuine. 

Through a genuine diamond the set- 
ting will not be seen : it is easily per* 
ceived looking through a false one. 

Precious Stones. — Cut stones should 
never be wiped after being washed. 
To cleanse them use a soft brush 
soaked in soapsuds of pure soap"? 
Rinse and place in sawdust until dry. 

Gold Ornaments. — Gold ornaments 
should be washed in soap water and 
rinsed in pure water. Cover them 
with sawdust and leave them for some 
time. When quite dry, rub with a 
chamois skin. 

Opals. — A Russian superstition has 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 3 8 9 

given this gem a fatal reputation. 
The alchemists of the Middle Ages do 
not agree with the subjects of the 
Czar. They assert that the opal re- 
vives the heart, preserves from all poi- 
son, all contagion in the atmosphere. 
Those who wear it, they add, never 
faint, and need not fear heart disease. 
The Orientals say that it is impression- 
able. It changes color according to 
the emotions of the wearer : reddens 
with pleasure in the presence of his 
Iriends, and pales before his enemy. 

"The ancients," said Buffon, "held 
the opal in the highest esteem." 
Lovely things have been said of its 
changeable tints. " Its lights are 
softer than those of the dawn." u It 
seems as though a captive rosy ray 
trembles beneath its pallor." It has 
been called a "moon tear." The 



39° MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

month of October has been dedicated 
to it ; and those born in that month 
should wear it in preference to any 
other stone. 

I might say a great deal more on the 
subject, but I must not forget that I 
am merely to suggest how to renew 
the opal's polish, when it has been 
scratched. Rub it with the oxide of 
tin, or mastic (putty) spread on a 
chamois skin, and moisten. Polish 
with powdered chalk ; wash the opal 
afterward with water and a soft brush. 
If this is done carefully the stone will 
not be loosened in its setting. 

Silver Ornaments. — When silver fili- 
gree ornaments have been blackened 
or have lost their polish, they may be 
cleansed in the following ways : wash 
first in potash water, which must not 
be too strong. After rinsing, dip 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 39i 

the articles in a water composed of 
one part of salt, one of alum, two 
of saltpetre, four of water. Do not 
soak longer than five minutes ; rinse 
in cold water, and dry on a cha- 
mois skin. 

Or : wash in hot water with a 
brush dipped in ammonia and soap. 
Rinse in boiling water, and dry in 
sawdust. When in the jewel case 
they should always be wrapped in 
paper. 

Dip oxidized silver in a solution of 
sulphuric acid, one part ; water, forty 
parts. 

Silver jewelry may also be rubbed 
with a slice of lemon, and rinsed in 
cold water ; afterward wash in soap- 
suds ; rinse again, but in hot water ; dry 
on a soft towel, and rub with chamois. 

'Nickel and silver are kept bright by 



392 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

being rubbed with a piece of woolen 
cloth saturated in ammonia. 

Amber, when tarnished, should be 
rubbed with pulverized chalk moistened 
with water ; then lay the amber on a 
bit of flannel and rub with olive oil ; 
dry on a soft piece of woolen goods 
until the polish returns. 

Ivory ornaments are whitened by a 
solution of peroxide of hydrogen. Ex- 
pose them to the sunlight in a bath of 
spirits of turpentine. This produces 
an excellent effect. Ivory can be 
cleaned with bi-carbonate of soda. 
Rub the ornament with a brush dipped 
in hot water, then sprinkle with the 
powder. 

Care of Furs y Feathers, and Woolen 
Goods. 

Many things and substances are rec- 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 393 

ommended for the destruction of in- 
sects. 

Pliny says that the Romans used 
citron to preserve their woolen gar- 
ments from moths. 

In our day, the same insect which 
destroys furs, feathers, and woolen 
goods is itself destroyed by the Indian 
chestnut, cloves, walnut leaves, or 
common salt. 

Generally cedar chips, pepper, or 
camphor (in large pieces, for when 
broken it loses strength), are generally 
recognized as the best preservatives. 

Whatever the remedy selected, it is 
necessary in the first place to shake, 
beat, and brush the furs carefully 
(against the grain), and all other ar- 
ticles to be put away when the season 
is over. They should then be sprinkled 
with pepper or camphor, and wrapped 



394 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

in a cloth which has been washed in lye 
water. Close the parcel carefully, and 
place in a chest into which some insect 
powder has been sprinkled. 

It is well to put away feathers in 
empty cigar boxes. 

If one owns a cedar chest, or closets 
which are wainscoted with cedar, it is 
sufficient to hang up the articles after 
having well brushed and shaken them. 

I have seen other methods employed 
to get rid of moths. A liquor of one 
quart of alcohol and the same quantity 
of essence of turpentine, and sixty-five 
grammes of camphor, is sometimes 
used. This should be kept in an 
earthenware jug, and well shaken be- 
fore using. When the winter garments 
are put away, soak pieces of blotting 
paper in the liquid, and scatter among 
the furs and flannels, which should be 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 395 

rolled up in white cloths. Place one 
layer at the bottom, one above the ar- 
ticle, and one at each side. 

Another suggestion : Cover an empty 
brandy cask on the outside with plaited 
andrinople. Place the furs and flan- 
nels in this, wrapped in white cloths ; 
then replace the cover of the cask, and 
use it as a table on which to support 
plants. 

If one has neither chest nor cask, 
after having shaken and brushed the 
articles, fold them separately in linen 
paper, sprinkle with pepper and cam- 
phor. Roll each parcel in newspaper, 
do the package up in white cloth, and 
hang in a closet or dark room. 

Clean furs by rubbing them against 
the grain with heated bran. Use mag- 
nesia for white furs. 



39 6 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Cleaning of Lace. 

Fine laces should be washed as sel- 
dom as possible ; but, when it is neces- 
sary, most women prefer to have them 
washed under their own eyes. Make 
hot soap suds with rain water and gly- 
cerine soap. The laces, which have 
been rolled on a glass bottle under a 
band of linen, are put in the suds and 
remain for twelve hours. Renew the 
soap suds three times, plunge the bottle 
into soft and clear water, and take it 
out immediately. The soap which re- 
mains serves to give some stiffness to 
the lace when pressed by a hot iron. 
Pin each point down under a fine mus- 
lin, and iron on the wrong side. When 
all is finished, raise each flower by a 
little ivory stick. Even a duchess is 
not above superintending the process 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 397 

of washing her Argentan, AleiKjon, 
or Angleterre laces. 

Laces may be bleached by being ex- 
posed to the sunlight in soap suds. The 
points are afterward dried on a cloth 
to which they are pinned. They are 
then rubbed carefully by the aid of a 
sponge dipped in soap suds of gly- 
cerine soap. First clean one side, and 
then the other. Rinse in clear water, 
in which a little alum is dissolved, to 
remove the soap. 

A little rice water should be passed 
over the wrong side of the lace with a 
sponge ; then it is to be ironed, and 
when finished the flowers picked out as 
in the above method. If the lace is 
not very much soiled, it can be cleaned 
with bread crumbs. 

As for cream-colored laces, they 
should be boiled for one hour in soapy 



39 8 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM, 

blueing water, then taken out and the 
operation repeated twice, always in 
fresh water. The third time there 
should be no blueing in the water, and 
it should not be rinsed. The lace 
should afterward be put in gum water, 
with a little brandy and alum dissolved 
in it. Then powder lightly with sul- 
phur flour and iron while damp. 

Valenciennes should be folded to- 
gether a regular length, sewed in a 
sack of fine white linen, and soaked in 
olive oil for twelve hours. Afterward 
put some sliced pure soap in water 
and boil the sack containing the lace 
for fifteen minutes. Rinse well, dip 
in a thin rice water, then rip open 
the sack and pin down the lace to 
dry Iron it under a muslin cloth. 

Black laces should also be folded in 
a short package and kept in place by 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 399 

stitching at the top, in the middle, and 
at the bottom. Dip the lace in beer, 
roll it with the hands, not rubbing too 
roughly, to clean it. When it is taken 
out of the beer, press it between the 
hands without wringing, then roll it in 
a cloth. Iron it after it has been partly 
dried, according to the desired stiffness. 
To iron it stretch it on a thick flannel, 
and let it remain there. Cover it with 
a thin piece of muslin to prevent the 
iron from making it glossy. 

When gowns trimmed with lace are 
put away, cover the lace with silver 
paper. 

To cleanse silver laces and braids, 
put them in a sack of white linen and 
dip into one pint of water, adding 
sixty grammes of soap. Boil well, and 
rinse in cold water. Apply a little 
spirits of wine to the tarnished places. 



400 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Cleaning and Washing Woolen 
Goods. 

Clean rose-colored cashmere by 
washing in cold soapsuds. If you at- 
tempt to put dye in the water, the ma- 
terial will be spoiled. Rinse well in 
cold water, and dry in the shade. 

To clean white serge, use a decoc- 
tion of soapwort roots. The gown 
when washed will be white and soft to 
the touch. Soap hardens stuff goods, 
and makes them yellow. 

Knitted or crocheted garments 
should be washed in the following 
manner : cut one pound of soap in 
thin slices and melt in a little water, 
until it has the consistency of jelly. 
When the preparation has cooled, 
beat it up with the hand, and add 
three spoonfuls of grated stag's horn. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 40I 

Wash the whole material in this mix- 
ture, and rinse well in cold water. If 
necessary dip the articles a second 
time in salt water to fix the color. 
Place before the fire ; stir frequently in 
order to let the dampness evaporate ; 
be sure not to stretch the articles out 
to dry. 

To clean a faded black cashmere, 
rub it width by width with a sponge 
soaked in a solution of alcohol and 
ammonia, equal parts, diluted with hot 
water. 

Wash merinos and cashmeres in 
warm water into which Irish potatoes 
have been scraped. Rinse in good 
soft water. These materials should 
not be wrung out. They should be 
spread smoothly on a line where they 
may drip, and should be allowed to 
become partly dry before ironing. 



4°2 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Cashmere may be also cleaned with 
the water in which Panama wood has 
been boiled, or in the water of ivy- 
leaves, or in beef gall, which is very 
good for washing green cashmere. 
Here is another recipe for black : Rip 
the garment, carefully taking out 
threads which adhere to the material. 
Cover the stains with dry soap. Put 
one hundred and eighty grammes of 
mustard flour in six quarts of boiling 
water, and allow it to boil two minutes 
longer. Strain through a cloth. Cool 
the water until the hand can endure it. 
Put the garment into an earthen vessel, 
and pour the mustard water over it. 
Soap carefully, especially the stains ; 
rinse in several waters ; the last should 
be clear. Stretch on a line. The 
woolen cloth being dry, cover with a 
damp cloth to iron. Wash colored 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 4°3 

flannel in hot soapsuds. Carefully 
avoid rubbing soap on it. Shake 
afterward, to get rid of as much water 
as possible, and spread it out to dry. 
Blue flannel requires bran water with- 
out soap. When rinsing, throw a 
handful of salt in the water to pre- 
serve the color. 

The juice of Irish potatoes will re- 
move mud stains on woolen cloth. 

It is easy to cleanse at home white 
woolen scarfs and shawls. Prepare 
soapsuds by boiling good pure soap in 
rain water. While the soap is melting 
in the water it should be constantly 
beaten, Dip the article in the soap- 
suds, soaking it first in warm and clear 
water. Press with the hands without 
wringing. Pass through fresh soap- 
suds ; rinse in soft clear water. Dis- 
solve in three quarts and a pint of 



4°4 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

water, not too hot, two spoonfuls of 
pulverized gum arabic. Mix well. 
When a thick liquid has been obtained, 
place the article in it and press it well 
in the hands. Then wring it, first with 
the hands, afterward in a white towel. 
Dry it by fastening the whole length 
to a tablecloth or towel, and cover- 
ning with another cloth. 

Cleaning of Silks. 

Silks are easily cleaned if one 
knows how to work carefully. Mix 
the following well together. Fifty 
grammes of honey, as much soft soap, 
one gill of brandy. Rip the gown, 
place in cold water, spread on a 
table, and rub well with a brush 
dipped in the mixture. Rinse three 
times in a pail of water, into which 
sixty-five grammes of gum have been 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 4°5 

dissolved. Let the garment drip with- 
out being wrung, and iron on the 
wrong side. 

Another recipe : Grate five Irish 
potatoes in clear cold water. If the 
silk is thin, slice the potatoes instead 
of grating. Wash them well before 
grating or slicing. Let the prepared 
water stand for twenty-four hours be- 
fore using. Then strain the liquid. 
Dip the silk in without rumpling it ; 
spread it on a table, wipe both sides 
with a clean towel, and iron on the 
wrong side. 

Grease stains may be removed 
either with chalk, magnesia, or ether, 
or with the yolk of an egg and water. 
Clean white brocaded silk with bread 
crumbs. Plain silk requires the fol- 
lowing process : Dissolve soft soap 
in water as hot as the hands can bear ; 



406 MY LADY'S B&ESSWG ROOM. 

rub the silk between the hands in the 
soapy water ; rinse in warm water, and 
dry by pinning on a cloth. 

Nothing is so good for black silk, 
and in fact for many materials, as beef 
gall. Throw the gall bladder into as 
much boiling water as you care to use. 
Spread the material on a table, and 
with a sponge dipped in the liquid 
clean the silk on both sides. Rinse in 
clear water, still on the table, on both 
sides with a sponge. Dissolve a little 
gum arabic or gelatine in the wa- 
ter, moisten the sponge with it, and 
pass it over the wrong side of the 
silk. Pin the silk on a cloth to 
dry it. 

A good way of removing grease 
stains from black silk is to rub them 
very vigorously with a piece of brown 
wrapping paper. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 4°7 

Silk should never be brushed. The 
brush ruins it. Wipe it off with a 
piece of velvet. 

Cleaning of Velvet. 

A competent maid should under- 
stand how to completely renew velvet 
garments which have been stained, or 
worn, or have grown glossy. The gar- 
ment must of course be ripped, breadth 
by breadth, piece by piece. 

Put burning coals in a chafing dish, 
and place on this dish a platter of 
thick brass. When it is very hot, 
cover with a thickly folded cloth damp- 
ened in boiling water. Spread on 
this cloth the velvet, wrong side out. 
Do not be frightened if you see a 
black vapor arise. Pass a brush very 
lightly over the velvet. Let it dry 
stretched smoothly on a table. 



4o8 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

If not to be used immediately, roll it 
in tissue paper. 

When the velvet has been crushed, 
turn it wrong side out, and hold it 
above boiling water, exposed to the 
vapor. Brush it against the grain. 

Before putting away gowns, mantles, 
plush or velvet jackets, the dust should 
be removed. To do this spread some 
fine white sand over the material. 
Brush it until the last grain of sand 
has disappeared. If mud stains are on 
the garment, dilute beef gall and a lit- 
tle spirits of wine in boiling water. 
Wet a soft brush in the mixture, and 
rub the stain, repeating as often as 
necessary. Apply to the back of the 
material a thin solution of gum. 

Stains. 
A stain is a disgrace to a garment. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 4°9 

It should be removed as soon as per- 
ceived. 

Ink stains on woolen goods and 
cloth may be removed with oxalic acid, 
but that the acid may not injure the 
material, put strong vinegar over the 
application. Lemon, milk, the juice of 
ripe tomatoes, etc., are good for ink 
stains on white materials. 

When the color of a material has 
been accidentally destroyed by an acid, 
rub the spot with ammonia, and the 
color will reappear. 

Grease spots caused by dripping 
candles may be removed by co- 
logne. 

Cover varnish and paint stains with 
butter or olive oil, and then apply tur- 
pentine. If the stain is old, use chloro- 
form instead of turpentine, but use it 
with great care. 



4IO MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

Sherry, rubbed in gently, removes 
stains made by Bordeaux. 

Blood stains should be saturated in 
petroleum, then washed in hot water. 

To remove any fruit stain, rub ac- 
cording to the grain of the material 
and never otherwise. 

Grease spots are the most disagree- 
able stains. They always spread, and 
are more offensive than others. For- 
tunately there are many ways for get- 
ting rid of them. 

Before removing stains on woolen 
goods, place on them a piece of ab- 
sorbent paper, pass a hot iron over it, 
and then use ammonia and soapsuds. 
Chloroform is successfully used, and 
also a mixture of alcohol and ammonia. 
These spots may be also dampened 
with ammonia water, and ironed under 
a piece of white paper. 



MY LADY'S DRESSIXG ROOM. \w 

Rub the stain with chalk on the 
wrong side of the cloth, allowing it to 
remain on all day. Many persons keep 
the following preparation to remove 
stains whenever needed. Make a stiff 
paste of Fuller's earth and vinegar. 
Roll into a ball and dry it. To use it 
scrape the ball on the stain, which must 
first be moistened ; allow it to dry, and 
then remove the stain with warm water. 

Here are three formulae for removing 1 
stains : 

First. Essence of turpentine, very 
pure, twenty-six grammes ; alcohol at 
forty degrees, thirty-one grammes; sul- 
phuric ether, thirty-one grammes ; pour 
into the bottle, cork, and shake well. 
To use the mixture, place the material 
to be cleaned on a piece of thickly 
folded white cloth. Wet the stain 
thoroughly with the preparation, and 



412 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

rub lightly with a fine cloth. If the 
stain is an old one, warm the material. 

Second. Mix ammonia and ether 
and alcohol, in equal parts, thoroughly ; 
place on the stain a piece of blotting 
paper ; moisten with a sponge dipped 
in w r ater, to make it more absorbent ; 
wet it with the mixture ; and rub the 
stain. It will disappear in an instant. 

The following will remove a stain 
of any kind. Pour into a large necked 
bottle two quarts of pure spring water ; 
add a lump of ashes of old lees of wine, 
about the size of a nut, a lump of pot- 
ash, two sliced lemons. Allow this to 
stand for twenty-four hours. Filter 
the liquid, and keep in well corked 
bottles. When you wish to remove 
the stain, wet it with the preparation, 
then rub the spot with fresh water. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 4*3 

Odds and Ends. 

Wash faded ribbons in cold soap- 
suds. Rinse, shake out, spread on the 
ironing board, and cover with muslin, 
ironing while damp. 

Women in mourning frequently dis- 
card long crepe veils and trimmings, not 
because they are ruined by the rain, 
but because the maid does not know 
how to care properly for this material 
when it is wet. It should be dried 
immediately, spreading it out, but not 
near the fire. If it is stained with mud, 
clean it with cold water, and dry away 
from the fire, air, and sunshine. Eng- 
lish crepe, when it has become limp, 
should be dampened with brandy, then 
rolled on a roller. Moisten it at each 
turn, and evenly throughout. Milk 
may also be used to dampen crepe and 



414 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

to restore its color, but the crepe 
should be carefully sponged afterward 
with water. 

Black thread stockings may be 
washed as follows : never use soap, but 
a suds made of a teacup full of bran 
inclosed in a muslin bag, thrown into 
warm water, and well stirred. First 
wash the stockings in this preparation. 
On taking them out of the water, roll 
them in a towel, pressing strongly, and 
dry quickly near the fire, not in the 
air. 

If this precaution be taken, the stock- 
ings will retain a fine black color, and 
never grow dingy. If they are neg- 
lected and become rusty, the color can 
be restored by boiling them in one 
quart of water, into which a few chips of 
logwood have been thrown. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 4*5 

Felt hats which have been wet 
should be brushed before drying. Rip 
off the trimmings ; begin brushing at 
the border, and continue turning, always 
on the same side, until the center is 
reached at the very top. Place the 
hat on a mold and let it dry before 
putting it away. It will be as fine and 
beautiful as when new. 

In putting gowns away for the 
season, wrap them in blue paper tightly 
sealed. White silk skirts should be 
placed in a second covering of muslin, 
and the bodices put away in cases or 
boxes. Fold the trains their full 
length. 

To cleanse the collars of garments, 
dissolve one part salt in four of alcohol. 
Apply with a sponge and rub well. 

Cloth, serge, felt hats, may all be 



416 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

cleansed by dipping a hard brush, 
which has short hairs, into spirits of 
ammonia. Rub until the grease spots 
disappear. 



APPENDIX. 



APPENDIX. 



Stings of Insects. 

Life in the country has often a 
drawback in the shape of mosquitoes, 
whose stings are intolerable. When 
stung, fly to the garden, get an onion 
or leek and rub the spot. This treat- 
ment is certainly not agreeable, but is 
most effective. The leaves of vervain 
will drive away the diligent mosquito. 
Washing the skin in toilet vinegars 
and in elderberry water will protect 
it from these insects. Honey water 
will calm the irritation. Put one tea- 
spoonful of honey in a quart of boiling 
water. Use while warm. 

Flour applied to the skin dispels 



419 



4^0 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

the redness, removes the itching and 
burning. Another good and easy rem- 
edy is to cover the sting with a little 
moist soap, allowing the lather to dry 
on the skin. 

A solution of menthol in small quan- 
tities, in alcohol, is excellent as a lotion, 
and is good in case of stings of wasps, 
bees, mosquitoes, or nettles. 

Many women use small sticks of 
cocoa butter as a cosmetic. If two 
parts of cocaine is added to one hundred 
parts of cocoa butter, it will produce 
immediate relief. It is only necessary 
to rub the spots with the little sticks, 
and the irritation will diminish.* 

If a bee mistakes a rosy lip for a 
rose, or a white brow for a lily, and if 
there be nothing near to cure the 

* Cocoa butter, used on the face, is apt to induce super- 
fluous hair. — H. H. A. 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 4*1 

wound inflicted by the busy worker so 
beloved by Virgil, rub the spot with 
a handful of parsley. Continue the 
friction for several minutes. 

Chloroform is also prescribed for 
mosquito bites. It reduces the swell- 
ing, and relieves the itching and the 
slight pain. Ammonia is also excel- 
lent. 

Headache and Neuralgia. 

Oil of peppermint will relieve the 
awful sufferings of neuralgia. A 
country doctor recommended plasters 
of bane-wort to relieve the terrible 
suffering, and this simple remedy 
proved very efficacious. 

The same practitioner administered 
a spoonful of common salt as soon as 
he saw the first symptom of headache. 
The indisposition disappeared within 



422 MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 

half an hour. Queen Victoria, who 
is subject to headaches, has her 
temples rubbed with a medicated 
camel's hair brush. Her Majesty is 
usually relieved of pain within a few 
minutes. 

Inflammations. 

Poultices of cooked apples produce 
good results in cases of boils and in- 
flamed eyelids. Leaves of bind-weed 
pounded and applied to the boils are 
also very efficacious. 

Insomnia. 

To prevent sleeplessness the En- 
glish have pillows made covered with 
camel's hair. 

Hop flowers and bulbs whose odors 
are to be inhaled have the same prop- 
erty, and so have onions. Mattresses 



MY LADY'S DRESSING ROOM. 4 2 3 

filled with pine needles will often in- 
duce sleep. 

Coryza. 

This indisposition comes within our 
jurisdiction because it produces ugli- 
ness, and makes the sufferer almost 
repulsive. Everyone knows the symp- 
toms, a red swollen nose, tearful eyes, 
a changed voice, convulsions of sneez- 
ing, etc. No beauty can withstand it. 
In England the vinegar of anemone is 
used. Pour a small quantity into the 
hand and inhale until it evaporates. 

One physician advises salt water 
used in the same way several times a 
day ; others recommend ammonia ; a 
little camphor taken as snuff some- 
times produces good results. 



PRACTICAL RECIPES. 

Furnished by Harriet Hubbard Ayer. 

Many excellent creams, lotions, cerates, etc., 
may be prepared at home, if the amateur is will- 
ing not only to give her time and patience to 
the work, but observe exact accuracy in regard 
to weights and measures, time required for vari- 
ous compounds, etc. To prepare the following 
formulae you will require : 

Small scales, such as are used by apothecaries ; 
a mortar and pestle ; a double boiler for the 
water baths. (I have found the Puritan Cooker, 
which may be purchased at any of the large 
house-furnishing shops, the best) ; a liquid 
measure, or graduate ; three or four bone or 
ivory spoons ; a small percolator ; filtering 
paper ; hair and bolting cloth sieves ; glass fun- 
nels. 

Perfect cleanliness is absolutely essential, 
therefore never use utensils which have served 
for cooking purposes. 

Use distilled water only. 
424 



PRACTICAL RECIPES. 425 

FORMULA. 

For Red Hands. {Berliner Klin.) 

Lanoline, 100 grammes ; paraffine oil, 25 
grammes ; vanilla, 10 centigrammes ; oil of rose, 
1 drop ; apply night and morning. 

Lotion for Dry Skin — Wrinkles, etc. (C. James?) 

Rose water, 200 grammes ; milk of almonds, 
50 grammes ; sulphate of aluminium, 4 grammes. 
Dissolve and filter. This is an astringent and 
an excellent tonic for flaccid skin. 

Virgi?ial Milk. {Pol Vernon.) 

Rose water, 900 grammes ; tincture myrrh, 
10 grammes ; tincture appoponax, 10 grammes ; 
tincture benzoin, 10 grammes ; essence of citron, 
4 grammes ; tincture of quillaia ; q. s. to make 
an emulsion. 

Amandine. 

Put into a large marble mortar two ounces of 
gum arabic and six ounces of white honey ; trit- 
urate, and when the mixture has been rubbed 
into a thick paste, add three ounces perfectly 
neutral almond shaving cream. Then continue 
the trituration until the mixture has become 
homogenous. Two pounds of fresh cold pressed 



426 PRACTICAL RECIPES. 

sweet almond oil are next allowed to flow from 
a can above it into the mortar, but only as rap- 
idly as it can be incorporated with the mass ; 
otherwise, if it enters in too large quantities, the 
blending is imperfect, and the amandine becomes 
oily instead of jelly-like and transparent, as it 
should be when the manipulation has been skill- 
ful. The perfume consists of one-half dr. attar 
of bitter almonds to every pound of the paste. 
A little attar of rose may also be added. As 
soon as finished it must be put into earthen jars 
and closely sealed. 

Cold Cream. 

Melt three ounces 'spermaceti, two ounces 
white wax, and twelve ounces oil of almonds in 
a water bath ; pour it into a marble mortar, and 
stir briskly to prevent granulation ; when of the 
consistency of butter triturate until the mixture 
has a white, creamy appearance, then, during 
continued trituration, add drop by drop one 
ounce rose water, one ounce pure glycerine ; 
beat for an hour, add ten drops of oil of rose. 
Put into pots or jars and hermetically seal. 

Witchhazel Cream. 

One ounce each of white wax and spermaceti, 
one-fourth pint of oil of almonds, melt, pour the 



PRACTICAL RECIPES. 427 

mixture into a marble mortar which has been 
heated by being immersed for some time in boil- 
ing water ; add, very gradually, three ounces 
of rose water and one ounce of witchhazel ; and 
assiduously stir the mixture until an emulsion 
is formed, and afterward until the mixture is 
nearly cold. 

Chapped Hands. (Mam'n.) 

Lettuce water, 200 grammes ; pure glycerine, 
50 grammes; tincture of Peru, 15 grammes; 
salicylate of soda, 4 grammes ; mix thoroughly, 
and apply night and morning. 

Flushed Face. (Startin.) 

Orange flower water, 1 quart ; glycerine, 50 
grammes ; borate of soda, 10 grammes. Use 
as a lotion three times a day, applying a little 
rice powder afterward. 

Rough Face a?id Hands. ( Vi'gier.) 

Rose water, 100 grammes ; glycerine, 20 
grammes ; tannin, 50 centigrammes. Apply a 
few drops to the hands and face night and 
morning. 



428 PRACTICAL RECIPES. 

Red Acne of the Face, (Hi 'Hair et.) 

Rose water, 250 grammes ; spirits of camphor, 
30 grammes ; powdered sulphur, 20 grammes ; 
pulverized Senegal gum, 8 grammes. Apply to 
the affected parts with a small sponge three or 
four times a day. The little yellow powder 
which will remain on the face after the lotion 
has dried should be left as long as possible. 

Dentifrice. (Eau Botot.) 

Green annis, 64 grammes ; cinnamon, 16 
grammes ; clove, 1 gramme ; cochineal, 5 
grammes ; cream of tartar, 5 grammes ; ben- 
zoin or myrrh, 2 grammes ; essence of pepper- 
mint, 4 grammes ; pyrethrum, 4 grammes ; al- 
cohol at 8o°, 2000 grammes. Bruise all in a 
mortar, macerate for eight days, and filter. 

Cucumber Cream. 

Take of oil of sweet almonds, 7 fluid ounces ; 
spermaceti, 18 dr. ; white wax, 5 dr. ; glycer- 
ine, 1 fluid ounce ; green cucumbers, 4 pounds. 
Cut the cucumbers in small pieces, mash them 
in a wedgwood mortar, let them macer- 
ate in their own liquor for 12 hours, ex- 
press and strain ; melt the almond oil, sperma- 
ceti, and wax together, by means of a water- 



PRACTICAL RECIPES. 4 2 9 

bath ; add to it the strained liquor, stirring con- 
stantly so as to incorporate the whole together. 
Set aside in a cool place (an ice-chest preferred) 
till it becomes hard, then beat with a wooden 
spoon, so as to separate the watery portion of the 
cucumbers from the ointment ; pour off the 
liquor thus obtained, and mix the glycerine with 
the ointment without the aid of heat, by work- 
ing it with the hands until it becomes thoroughly 
incorporated. Put up in 4 ounce jars, cover 
with a layer of rose water, and set aside in a cool 
place. 

Violet Powder. 

Rice flour, 1 pound ; Florentine orris (pow- 
dered), \ ounce ; essence ambergris, 10 drops ; 
oil of rose, 10 drops. Mix thoroughly. Sift 
through a hair sieve first ; afterward through 
the finest bolting-cloth sieve. The mixture re- 
maining in the sieves is unfit for use. 



43° 



TABLE OF WEIGHTS. 



5! 



1 






8 



<o> 
<oi 



So 



<o> 






Kb 




^ 






2 


» 




<3 


*rs> 




^ 


^ 






<oi 




<"> 


<o 




<o 


$5 




&) 


^ 




» 


"K4 




^ 


^ 




s 

^ 


.0) 




<oj 




Si 


3 


"8 


<S 


<o> 


,3 


"*l 


r^ 


^ 


r^ 


h 


s 

s 


K 



Equiv. in 

minims 

of 

pure water 

at 62 . 


O o 

vo oo oo 

■*■ VO 

to 








Equiv. 

in 

French 

Grammes. 


00 Tf Tj- 
N P4 OO 
Tf -*■ to 

ir ; ro •**• 

CO 00 co 

N m 

■«*■ 








in 

a 

> 'S 

u 

H 


lO 

to 

oo 

VO lO 

■4- to 6 d 6 6 

m ro o o o o 

rj- o^ q. o^ q, 

to vd" -4 o 

o> oo co 

H to SO 

in 


•aox 


m 

; ' ; ; °. 


•f(tt,3 

•liiSpAvpsapunjj 


XT, 

: '. '. 'wd 

C") 


•sj3}.ren£) 


: : : m 4 d , 

00 


5*o* 
O 


00 IT) 
to N 

So.... 

h oo el d 

C* H -<f 
M N 


O 


in 

<N 

H SO 00 N d 

k H Tt" O "4" 

<i -3- to 00 

Hoo h in 

CO 


B . 
Q 


h oo oo* 4- vd 

<M 00 CO (N 

h in co to 
co 4 vd" 

M 00 



%Lll 



mm m mm 

BfifiD ^■^B BHflflH 




mam 

HI 




H H H 

— 




